First, I got codes P1172 (MAF sensor), and P2A00 (o2 sens, bank 1/sens 1). Cleaned MAF sensor first, reset codes. Back on in 2 days (both codes). Replaced MAF sensor, then got just P2A00 (o2 sensor).
Got Bosch universal type o2 sensor (part #15730). Spliced wiring from OEM connector to new sensor, and installed sensor.
NOW, I get code P1157 (air/fuel ratio sensor, bank1 sensor1). I looked up the o2 sensor I got from the parts store on the Bosch website, and they show that part # as the DOWNSTREAM sensor (bank1/ sensor2).
I asked for the UPSTREAM sensor.
Now, my problem is that I don't know whether the 06 Honda Civic requires the o2 sensor or the air/fuel ratio sensor. I feel that the o2 sensor that's now in the upstream side has to come out, but what do I replace it with?
The OEM sensor I pulled out was DENSO (4 wire). I checked their website, and found an fuel/air ratio sensor (part#234-9062). The BOSCH website has an exact fit replacement upstream sensor (Part #13982), which looks exactly like what I took out (it has the cup-shaped heat shield like the original).
One is called an air/fuel ratio sensor(DENSO), and the other is called an oxygen sensor(BOSCH). They are approximately the same price. Which one should I get? The HONDA website was NO help!
Sometimes can be prematurely dirty air filter, sets off the air flow sensor, which sets off the o2 sensor. So might try new air filter first and erase codes and then see, before you spend more bucks than you need; then if codes return, do the flow mix sensor.
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Re: Check engine light
Ok, well here is the deal on new Honda's. 2 Sensors, upstream is an air-fuel ratio sensor, downstream is a standard o2 sensor.
According to Honda, you seem to have the meanings of the codes off by a little bit. P2A00 is an AF sensor performance problem and P1172 is AF high voltage. So replace the upstream sensor with the AF ratio sensor. Stick to the OEM Nippendenso..
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With a defective O2 Bank 1 front sensor you would expect a poor warm engine running operation.
The before catalytic O2 sensor controls the fueling function to the engine. The mixture air/fuel ratio is calculated from the input from this critical sensor.
With a simple scan tool with graphic function the operation of this O2 can be observed, and diagnosed.
Suggest borrow or if car drive-able take to a parts store that will perform a complementary scan of the O2 function.
These are heated sensors and the heated circuit electrical connection could be the problem.. Exhaust leak, blocked catalytic converter, broken wire are all possible causes. By graphing the function and comparing to bank 2 diagnostics are relatively easy.
The reason at cold startup the engine is OK is that until the O2 heats up the engine is running open loop and the O2 is not hot. To be operational the O2 must be hot.
it means that the O2 sensors in your vehicle detected a lean condition in their respective banks. this could be caused by a dirty MAF (mass air flow) sensor or a vacuum leak downstream from the MAF sensor
sometimes you can clean the MAF with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner but be sure to take it off the vehicle first. be careful not to damage the MAF while spraying the cleaner, and allow it to dry completely before installing it on the vehicle.
No you did not do any thing wrong P0 are generic codes P2 is the enhance code, by the way P0138 is bank 1 sensor 2 oxygen sensor circuit high, what causing this code its either internally disconnected or externally disconnected, remeber this is the oxygen sensor that monitor the catalytic convertor so this sensor is after the catalytic, make sure it is connected
P0174 Basically this means that an O2 sensor in bank 2 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 2 is generally the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder #1. P0140 Basically this means the an O2 sensor in Bank 1 detected a lean condition, same as mentioned above. Bank 1 is the side where cylinder #1 is. In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling. P1133 and P1153 indicate that the HO25 Sensor has gone bad. There the O2 sensor to the left and right bank at the exhaust manifold. When the engine first start's the PCM runs on a open loop and ignores the O2 readings till it reaches it's operating temperature. Once the operating temperature has been reached the diagnostic will only run once per ignition cycle and if the PCM detects a lesser then specified value, a DTC of P1133 or P1153 will come up. Once the problem has been repaired, after 3 start cycle will reset the MIL light. If the O2 is just dirty and slow to heat up try cycling the ignition start 3 times and the light should go off if the O2 sensor does not fail. Try cleaning the MAF first and see if the light comes off after a few ignition cycle, If the service light is still on you can always have Auto Zone clear the DTC codes and see if it comes back which then check the left and right bank wire harness to the O2 sensors. Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted.
Your car is equipped with a diagnostic system called OBD II. You can purchase a code reader and use it to find which O2 sensor is causing the problem. You probably have 4 sensors. 2 in front of the converter and 2 behind. The code reader will indicate something like "SEN 1 BANK 1." This means O2 sensor in front of the cat. on the side of the engine that contains cylinder 1. You may see "SEN 2 BANK 1" "SEN 1 BANCK 2" "SEN 2 BANK 2" Bank 2 indicates oppisite side of No.1 cylinder. Hope this helps