Question about 1988 Ford Crown Victoria
I have a 1988 Ford Crown Vic....on mine, there is a small leak at the back end of the transmission, where the drive shaft connects....
Is this where your fluid is leaking from?
My cousin is a ford mechanic...he told me that he sees that a lot on the vics of this age.....not because a seal is bad, but because of how the tranny is made....
but im not sure...
hope this helps somehow...
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That is alot of work. It would **** to have a mechanic paid to do this but unless you are pretty good with a wrench and have a hoist and such then it wouldnt be worth your time. Normally what is required for something like this is supporting the vehicle on jack stands and removing both front tires. Once front tires are removed you would then have to remove the axles which includes the brakes/rotors and what not. Once the axles where removed you would unbolt the transmission and remove it. Now the problem is if the engine is supported by a mount that bolts to the transmission you are going to have to support the motor with a hoist or jack until the transmission is installed. All in all it isnt really alot of work if you know what you are getting yourself into and have all the stuff you are going to need ie jacks/hoists/plenty of tools and a good weekend. Also remember all the small stuff that might need to be unbolted to clear the transmission
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
do yourself a favor bring it to a shop. if you dont line thing up. well let just say your going to have strong legs from walking. i hope this helps
Posted on May 10, 2009
you have to raise vechicle.use jack stands.block rear wheels.apply parking brake.when loosen axle nut.its more easier to leave wheel on.let vechicle weight hold wheel from turning while you loosen axle nut.you need to get a 1/2 break bar or large ratchett wrench with a deep socket .you need to buy socket use to remove axle nut a regular socket would probably break.when you remove the axle nut.remove brake caliper and brake pads.set them aside dont disconnect brake caliper.get a piece of wire to hang it out the way.dont use brake hose.could damage it. remove brake caliper support bracket then the rotor.get a hub removing tool remove hub.then loosen hub and bearings bolts .then remove shield hub and bearings assembly with O-ring.disconnect ball joint from steering knuckle using the proper tool.remove the halfshaft assembly and tap the seal from the steering knuckle.remove the steering knuckle from the hub.now that drive axle out the way.get the seal removing tool.its a flat tool with two hooks on it.to pry seal out transmission.or you can use a small chisel to clapse the seal but be careful dont damage the seal housing.when installing new seal coat it with transmission fluid.drive it in using a large socket.if you are reusing same axle replace circlip on the end of it.now putting back together.install a new hub and bearing seal in the steering knuckle with a seal installer tool .install steering knuckle to the strut.lubricate the hub and bearings with grease.install halfshaft.connect ball joint to the steering knuckle .install a new O-ring around the hub and bearing assembly.install hub and bearing assembly into the steering knuckle.tighten bolts to 75 ft lbs.install rotor then brake caliper support bracket bolts 120 to148 ft lbs.this is mounting bracket bolts only not the caliper bolts to brake shoes.put brake shoes and caliper back on torque 38 ft lbs.install shaft washer the axle nut to 180 ft lbs.tighten much as you can.before setting car on ground.to torque it to 180 ft lbs place car wheel back on set it down so the car weight keep wheel from turning.i hope this information works out for you good luck.and work safe.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
I know that GM dosen't have a fill/check tube on several models. They use a plug on the side of the unit (like on stickshift transmissions) I'm sure there would be a similar item on your transmission otherwise after a rebuild, there would be no way to refill it. If it's a small leak you could try using a good sealer/conditioner such as Lucas, which may help you a lot.
Posted on Jul 17, 2009
Not hard to do. You need to remove the drive shaft, to get to the nut that holds the rear yoke from the differential. Once the rear yoke has been removed, you can replace the O ring seal from the differential by using a screw driver to pry out the old seal. Try not to damage it to much so you can use it to help tap in the new seal. Once the seal is out place the new seal in place by hand and then place the old old seal on it and tap in the new seal with a small hammer. Take care to ensure that the new seal goes in straight and place some grease on the seal before you place the yoke back in to place. Tighten up the yoke nut and you may want to replace the U joint at this time too since it's off the truck. Once everything it back together, check the differential oil level and top off. Good luck and hope this helps, you can get the parts at Auto Zone and they can also give you the step by step instructions to getting the job done with common tools. The hardest part that i can see you having is the removal of the yoke nut, the job takes about an hour to do so if your going to have a garage to the job the most would be 1.5 hours but should take them about 30 min to do.
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
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