Question about 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Have recently done brakes on a couple of cars, including a jeep, 1995. I soaked the parts with PB Blaster, or any other wd 40 type spray. The parts are quite corroded when they are this age. Had to change rotors, on front.Some models have a threaded hole to help remove rotors.You tighten a proper size bolt on the trreaded hole and turn it in. All this did was break the rotor. If rotors are bad, you may have to remove these with a hammer, Have new ones handy, or you may get lucky and get these off. Then you can take them to a shop to have them turned down, as long as there is enough material left to safely turn them down. The rest of the front is not to hard. You remove the covers from the master cylinder. Then you use a c clamp to retract the hydraulic pistons.Before you remove the two bolts to remove the calipers, make sur you don't let them hang by the brake cables. Most braking is done with the front brakes. If you remove the rear, do only one at a time. This way you can see the other side . remove both drums. I only do one side at a time so I can see how it all goes back together, it's just reversed. lbreen
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Front
I'm having the same problem. My 2000 WJ is pushing 95,000 miles. I bought it with 20,000 miles in 2001 so i'm unaware of an issue before. The first time i had the warpage, i had the rotors turned and replaced the pads (organic). It worked well for a while. When the problem returned i replaced the rotors and pads (ceramic) which lasted longer. I have now been driving the vehicle in Italy for the past 2 years. The problem has been gradually getting worse within the last few months. After some research online. I've come to the conclusion of replacing my Teves calipers with Akebono calipers which Jeep upgraded future WJ's with in 2002. Along with a caliper replacement you have to replace the rotors as well. After some more research regarding slotted, drilled, vented rotors, i'm just going to go with stock replacements. Right now i'm trying to figure out if there's a better caliper/rotor combination before i commit to this order. As it is, it's around $500. Also, like the previous poster. Make sure you don't overtighten your lug-nuts. I don't know if that contributed to my problems. I've always used a hand 4-way type lug nut wrench. I recently read that they should only be tightened from 85-100 lbs/ft. I'm going to place the order for the parts which should arrive in about a week.
Posted on Aug 21, 2008
To remove the rotor you need to first remove the two bolts holding the caliper on. You need to make sure that you have something to put the caliper on or a piece of string to tie it up so that it's not hanging. After that, you need to remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket on. You will have to get to this by looking behind the caliper (it's pretty easy to find). Once you have removed the caliper bracket, you will be able to just pull the caliper off. I have a 99 jeep and this is exactly how I did it just a couple of weeks ago. Let me know if once you have taken the caliper and bracket off if it doesn't just pull off. I assume the 01 and 99 will be the same. If it doesn't pull off, your jeep is a little different and you will have a hub nut in the middle of the rotor that you need to take off first. Again, I don't think that will be the case but if it is you can "rent" for free, the correct size socket from Auto Zone to take the hub nut off. Let me know if you have further questions. Thanks for rating my response and for using FixYa!
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
Why would you put tape on the rotors when doing brakes? Once calipers are removed, rotors come right off. Never saw any seal on rotors and don't know what a seal would do there....Unless it's put there on assembly line to keep rotor from falling off? I wouldn't be concerned.
Posted on Sep 02, 2009
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