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I have a 1996 Honda Orthia GSX 4wd 2.0 ltr auto,goes through 1 ltr petrol to do 4kms,unbelievably thirsty,no leaks etc,idles okay new plugs,driveshaft missing so only runs on front wheel drive,should be doing 9.1 kms to a litre of gas,any ideas,perplexed.?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Chevy Tahoe 2001

Place vehicle in 4wd (high or low). This will hold the front drive shaft still for the rest of the test. Jack up the front end of the vehicle. Remove the actuator. Have a buddy spin the right front wheel while you use a long punch or screwdriver to try to manually engage the diff. The left front wheel should spin in the other direction if the diff is good. Also before you check the diff you need to grab the front driveshaft and make sure it is locked, If it spins freely when the truck is in park and in 4wd with the front end raised then problem is in transfer case. If you can't make the diff engage manually with punch then the problem is in the diff. If front diff engages manually then the problem is the actuator. Hope this helps..

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

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SOURCE: Front wheels do not turn

I did run the vehicle on the lift in 4wd. The actuator is trying to engage. I removed the right side axle housing and found the shim on the end of the shaft had fallen out of place. The small roller bearing in the shaft was damaged as well. This may have happended on a previous axle seal replacement. A new shim, and bearing fixed the problem. Thanks for our reply

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 kia sportage ex, 4 cyl.

Many of the Kia sportages have a problem with the coils.

There are 2 coils for each 2 cyl and they are located under the middle platic cap on the valve cover.

These coils will set a check engine light that blinks when misfiring and stays on steady when the motor is running smooth. Autozone or Advance auto have a scanner that can check all engine functions and will show a problem with # 2 and 4 cyl.

The coil packs are $39.00 to replace but check the codes first

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • 336 Answers

SOURCE: my 79 Chevy has rough idle/miss at idle but runs fine otherwise

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak or a carburetor problem. Check all hoses and the line going to the brake booster for cracks or leaks. Make sure the carb bolts are tight at the manifold. You can check for leaks using some carb cleaner. Spray around the base of carb while the engine is running, any leak will cause the engine to sputter when the spray hits it. You may want to look into rebuilding the carb or replace it. If its the original its a Quadrajet, they are not the easiest to rebuild but not impossible. If you rebuild it yourself, make sure to get the numbers off the carb so you can get the correct rebuild kit and accelerator pump. Plus you should replace the float when you rebuild since its 30 years old. A thorough cleaning of the carb is crucial before rebuilding. The fuel mixture screws have caps on them so they wont be altered after assembly from the factory. You'll have to remove those caps to remove these screws before cleaning. You can probably find some good info. on doing this at a good parts store. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

carputers
  • 255 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Toyota T100 4WD. Apparently the front

take apart and clean mud/rust out of wheel hubs.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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1 Answer

Does a honda orthia 4wd have a transmission filter?


As bands and clutch packs deteriorate with usage I would be surprised if there was no filter as it would keep the rubbish out of the close fitting valves.

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My 1996 honda accord consumes too much fuel in a ratio of 1-6 km /liter, what seems to be the problem? I have it tuned up, cleaned the throttles, etc,, but to no avail. whats the best thing to do?


Since you've cleverly already done the normal tune-up items that preserve the 96 Accord's good fuel economy, its time to move onto the tougher adventures.

Cars with outrageously bad fuel consumption are losing fuel somehow (aka leaking).
(a) There's a fuel tank drain plug on the bottom of the fuel tank (used to drain tank for service) - make sure its tight and that the tank isn't leaking fuel there.
(b) check your fuel lines - there are 2 (one supplies fuel to the engine, and the other returns excess to the tank). If either is leaking, your car will lose petrol quickly.
(c) the evaporative fuel canister - instead of absorbing vapours, it may be full of fuel and leaking..
(d) check your fuel rail - its pressurized with fuel while the car is running - it may be leaking - and if it is: (1) the top of your engine will soon catch fire (2) the fuel may be evaporating as soon as it leaks, since the top of the engine gets so hot.

Use a fuel pressure gauge to test the fuel pressure in your 96 Accord's fuel rail - attach your
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From the 1996 Honda Accord repair manual:
Note that this part of the Honda manual fails to mention that before you disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, you must note (and write down) the 3-digit radio lock code
--- begin excerpt ---
The Fuel System Pressure Specification


38-46 PSI (Pounds per Square Inch)Remove the ground cable from the negative battery post and also remove the fuel tank filler cap. Slowly release system pressure at the fuel filter and cleanup spilled fuel. Remove the Banjo bolt and install a fuel pressure test gauge. Reconnect the battery ground cable and proceed to start the engine and allow the system pressure to stabilize. While the engine is at idle, block off/pinch the number (1) vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and visually verify the fuel pressure reading on the test gauge.
--- end excerpt from 1996 Honda Accord repair guide ---

(e) possible leaking fuel pressure regulator - located at back of top side of engine, and looks like an
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(f) to move on from fuel - if you're getting only partial ignition, your fuel economy will suffer too - but you'll smell alot of unburned fuel in your exhaust (and get alot of backfiring). Use your HEI (high energy ignition) tester to rule out ignition (spark) problems.

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1 Answer

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ive never been able to usually the ball bearings in the dist. come loose and bounce around inside.no parts stores offer the bearing.if the module in it goes bad a new module costs more than a rebuilt dist.

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Your idle will go up with low coolant, because the temperature sensor can't read "air" so it thinks it's cold. Get the coolant system pressure tested to find the leak.

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Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

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