Yeah could be or maybe your front alignment baring could be worn out I had a car that done that and it was alignment if you ever wrecked it frame could be twisted enough to pull right check tires if going bald on inside on the right tire and outside on left all you have to do is pull bolts out square them off and drive it for a little while if problem repeats get new barrings
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sounds like didnt get all the trash out --possible valve is fouled or blocked and not closing or sealing correctly and allowing blow by or leakage test valve and pressure piston rings may be causing blow by as well also new parts doesnt mean free from defects
I am a good tech also.. 40+years.. I am retired and only work on my cars and poor people cars who cannot afford to have them repaired. (for parts cost only) I had a similar problem with a master cylinder.. Could not get it to make pressure.. after 3 "rebuilt" cylinders and about 1 gal of fluid.. i finally took one of the "rebuilt" cylinders apart. one of the seals on the piston was not installed it was there just not around the piston.. drove me crazy.. took a second one apart and same problem.. this was one of the biggest reman companies in the US and i always use their parts.. I was very dissapointed with their quality on this part. Had another issue with a rack and Pinon.(mitsubushi car) Steering was going bad slowly Harder and harder to steer.. I replaced the pump.. did not fix the problem.. customer drove car for another week.. pump locked up and broke the belt.. car not running the pump was turning free.. This person had NO money.. so i went to pick a part and found a rebuilt rack that looked like it had just been installed ( same Manufacture as in ill fated MC ) I took it and installed it.. cured the problem.. very little cost.. the rack has a valve that allows right or left assist depending on the position of the shaft.. one of these valves had been going bad slowley..and finally failed.
Hope this helps.or at least sets you on the right course..
the pump is the problem seals in the valve body are worn and leaking pressure contact dealer or local parts stores some pumps are able to be rebuilt using a seal kit if there is no kit see about a used pump from a wrecker or rebuilt pumps also see if there is a aftermarket pump that will cost less
It will probably just sit there when you start the engine, then take off like a rocket when you touch the steering wheel? The wheel will take off in the opposite direction of the way you tried to turn the steering wheel. (you start to turn the wheel to the left and it rips out of your hand and goes right until it slams the full right stop, then rockets back to the left until it hits the full left stop and shoots back to the right again and repeats this process until the engine is shut off.)
If this is the case, you have the hoses from the control valve to the power cylinder reversed.
The oil on the spark plug usually comes from the valve cover seal or the spark plug tube. The valve cover seals to the tube and the tube seals to the head. The tube is usually a tight fit in to the head with a little sealant. The tubes can be purchased at the chrysler dealer or possibly at a local parts store. As for the red fluid,it is automatic transmission fliud . It is used in the manual transmission as well as the power steering system. You could have an axle seal leak, transmission shifter seal leak, power steering seal leak, depending on which side of the vehicle is wet.
I had the same problem w/ my 65 Falcon. I adjusted the control valve a few different ways and it made a little difference. I noticed the boot for the ball stud was off-centered and was pushing the ball stud(along w/ the spool valve) to one side. Try lifting the front of the vehicle, loosen the boot strap, center the boot strap and road test the vehicle. I know it sounds like a long shot but it made a difference. My steering still isn't perfect, but it's alot better. Maybe it will work w/ your concern, it might help me figure out what's wrong w/ mine. Let me know if it helps.
Try tightening your spool bolt. Take off the spring cap, tighten the adjusting nut till it is snug, then back it off no more than a 1/4 turn. Hopefully this will help. If you need a diagram, let me know. I have a shop manual that shows all..