Question about 1998 Toyota Camry

3 Answers

Metal to metal noise when turning right (grinding lightly)

I first thought it was just worn brakes. Replaced front rotors and pads. Didnt work. Thought maybe it was a stuck caliper and replaced. Still there. I just figured out that it is only when I turn the steering wheel to the right. The noise slows with the speed of the truck and is not noticable when windows are up and at higher speeds although I probably just can't hear it over the wind coming in the window.

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  • justin_boop Apr 18, 2009

    Will look at it. Is there any visual symptoms? is this hard to replace yourself?

  • justin_boop Apr 19, 2009

    I apologize for the mix up. I was searching for an explanation and when I posted this problem I didnt realize it was under a specific vehicle. My vehicle is a 2002 ram 1500 2wd 5.9L V8. I have spun the wheel while up on jacks and didnt hear anything abnormal.

  • justin_boop Apr 19, 2009

    Stock Wheels. No tire rub. Seems to be louder since I replaced the caliper. Well maybe not louder but more often atleast. It isnt a heavy grinding. More of a light grind or loud scratching. It isnt a belt. It is coming from the driver front wheel. It is a metal sound hence thinking it was a stuck caliper. Just can't figure out why it is only when I turn right.

  • justin_boop Apr 19, 2009

    New rotors, not turned. Pad indicator not bent either. I will look at the bearings and see if that is the problem. Hope so. Thanks for your help.

  • justin_boop Apr 19, 2009

    Looks like I have play in the bearing and I do hear noise when spinning the wheel. Had to buy a whole new hub. They dont sell just the bearing. Now I cant get the old one out. Do you have any suggestions for that?

  • bczerkie May 11, 2010

    I was just doing a quick check on this and noticed they offer a Rear wheel ABS and a 4 wheel Abs Option. one is $213 and one is 229. Advance auto. Difference should be the little gear looking ring. yours should be 4 wheel only if has a sensor up front. I haven't actually changed one on your vehicle, I would recommend buying a chiltons manual for about $20 should offer some good tips, or some stores ( auto zone?) may offer free use of manuals, (never used it but remember ad Somewhere).Bill

  • bczerkie May 11, 2010

    Did you have the rotors turned when you did the brakes?

    If they are a little rough, that might be all you are hearing and the increased noise when turning is due to some movement in bearings. Even if you did turn them, rotors still have a little roughness when first turned, but takes a trained ear to hear that.

    Check for any heat at bearing after driving and during the spin test check to see if tire rotates freely more than a couple turns after you let go,(indicating a dry bearing). Most bearings need to be packed (greased) and seal replaced. Not sure if yours takes special bearing but you can check at Auto zone or others. replacement can be tricky (bearing tightness). Most will tighten to tightly and ruin them before they ever move, Damage shows up soon.

    One last thing the brake wear indcator wasn't bent in, possibly causing a scraping or squeeling noise. was it? with new pads it should be about 3/8" from the rotor or 1/16" from the backing plate.

    Good luck Bill

  • bczerkie May 11, 2010

    I accept app.



    Does it have any noise if not moving? wheel turned hard,? Is it the same noise? If yes could be belt slipping.

    But I am leaning towards a wheel bearing at this time.

    If not rubbing from wide tires.

    You might try some hand pressure pushing on tire while jacked up and rotating, Maybe pay attention to very minor vibration,felt in your hand.

    Stock wheels or something just installed?

  • bczerkie May 11, 2010

    Ball Joints Don't Grind, Why replace them. All they do is move back and forth, if there is a problem they can pop or have loose movemeny in them.

    If you've never done front end work take it to somebody. It is the most critical work that can be done that will kill you if done wrong. And it needs to have a alignment after any adjustment or replacement.

    So is this a 1998 Camry Truck like the description says? Interesting.

    next article says 98 Camry (ball joints going out to much on a 89 chevy s10 blazer)

    People Please!!

    I would sugest you raise front end and check for movement or noise from each wheel bearing and if none check in fender for tire rubbing wear. or check (depends on vehicle you have) CV axles which usually click and "some" have bad grease seal on them when bad.

    Don't rate people untill the problem is sovled...Bill

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I'm just posting this for people that may search for this problem and actually have a 1998 Camry 4cyl.

The problem is a worn out transmission mount. The one just in front of the driver, between the frame and the end of the transmission housing. There is a post that goes through the middle of the mount, it wears through the rubber and knocks against the metal part of the mount.

Posted on Jul 14, 2010

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Its definatly your inner cv joint. they cost anywhere from 90-300 buck depending on how new or old your car is. my car did the exact same thing. if it whistles a little too while costing thats definatly it.


goodluck!

Posted on Mar 11, 2010

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  • Master
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It is your Ball joint that has gone bad.

Replace it.

Rate this.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • Onifade Adewunmi
    Onifade Adewunmi Apr 18, 2009

    Replace both tyrods and ball-joints.



    It can be tasky and might wanna advice you get an expert to fix it for you at a token.



    Dont forget to rate my solutions.



    Murphybanton

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