While driving, the engine quits without warning. It may start again in a few days, or may not. I seem to have plenty of spark. If I spray starter fluid in the throttle body, it will start until the vapor is gone but will not stay running. 1991 S-10
Been having the same problem. Ended up replacing the grey wire from the fuel pump relay to the fuel pump. The grey wire leaves the relay and then branches in two. One wire goes to the ECM to tell it the fuel pump has power. The other goes to the fuel pump.
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I have a 1994 Volvo 850 that did the same thing. It was the fuel pump relay, a $50 part that is easy to replace yourself. It could also be the thermostat ($75) in the air flow box. Some people remove the bad thermostat and fix the air flow tube in the position with the air flow coming in from the front of the car. People say you can freeze your engine in winter if you live in a cold climate. It rarely gets cold where I live so it wasn't a problem for me. You do get better gas mileage without that thermostat. I ran my car without the thermostat for about a year and then put a new one in because I started having rough idling problems when the engine had not warmed up yet. The thermostat funnels in hot air from the manifold (?) until the engine warms up and then the spring in the thermostat closes off the tunnel with that hot air flow and opens up the tunnel with the cooler air flow coming in from the front of the car. If the thermostat quits working, the hot air keeps coming in and the engine shuts off after about 10 minutes of driving. The car will usually start right up after you wait a few minutes. These symptoms don't usually show any engine codes.
sounds like the fuel driver module is on it's way out
mounted on side of fuel pump square box black in colour held on with 4 screws
and silicone style gasket
i havs replace quit a few over the years runing a fleef of small bus with 6.5 diesel engine
Sounds like the fuel pump may be intermittant...which unfortunately is located inside the fuel tank...there is a service port on the engine that allows you to test the pressure of the pump...it is located on the fuel rail that feeds the fuel injectors...this would be a good place to start....other possible problems with the fuel system are the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injectors, tps sensor, and possible but unlikely the PCM(computer)...A way to test the pump without tools would be to bang on the fuel tank and see if the problem ceases..if the pump starts working, then it is intermittant and I would suggest replacing as it may fail again...and quite possibly, when youre in a bad place or area
Your problem my friend is the fuel pump. These go out and your dead in the water. If all electrical systems seem fine and no warning light then I would highly suspect the fuel pump. Can you have someone get in and turn the key on and then turn it over while your looking into the throttle body, check and see if your getting gas, if none then it.s the pump. You can also try a LITTLE bit of starting fluid in the breather and it should try to start or may even run a few seconds, again this points to the pump or a completely clogged fuel filter. The pump is located in the gas tank just so you know.
Does engine still crank? If so you have to check for Fuel, spark, compression. when your engine quit ..odds are good you lost one of these. check for fuel since modern electric fuel pumps stop working without any warning.You should be able to hear the pump momentarily when you first turn the key to "ON" If good check for spark, modern "coil pack" spark systems have a few weak links. if engine cranks and you have spark and you don't know how to check for fuel spray some starting fluid in your air inlet and see if it will start momentarily
It appears that your brake booster system has a major vacuum leak which is causing the engine to go lean and stall. Check the hose between the intake manifold and the brake booster. It may be cracked or loose causing outside air to enter the hose when the brake is applied.