Question about 1993 GMC Jimmy

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How do you change a freeze plug in chevy 1500 with a 350 5.7L They are called FREEZE PLUGS on the replacement part box pal! They also had a purpose that involved popping out if the engines froze in the early days. If you do not know the specifics on the particular engine this person is referring to, please spare us the useless academics. Everyone will know about the useless info concerning water, antifreeze, and "the right size!" Now on with real information. I have the same problem. The freeze plug is behind the motor mount, and is not visible from under the hood. Is it necessary to remove the the exhaust manifold, or can you get to this monster by simply unbolting the motor mount and raising the engine a little?

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I would reccomend removing the exhaust manifold, then disconnect both motor mounts and raise the engine as much as possible..you will appreiciate all the room you can get

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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Are there freeze plugs behind tranny on a 94 4.3 chevy engine


Gene, there are freeze plugs on the engine in which transmission would have to be removed to access. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
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May 11, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where are the freeze plugs on a 1992 F 150 - I am loosing anti freeze from the front behind alternate and above the water pump, changed out water pump and hoses already.


images for Where are the freeze plugs on a 1992 F 150

Freeze plug removal.94" f-150 by an 11year old part 1 ...

? 14:18
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mY4o9kSAhr8
Feb 24, 2014 - Uploaded by Marshall C
Pops from The Kidz show, takes apart a 94" f-150 just to get to one freeze plug on the driver side, on the ...

How To Replace Freeze Plugs - YouTube

? 4:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXBpLptUEsA
Nov 6, 2009 - Uploaded by 4x4Husky
A basic tutorial on how to replace freeze plugs on an engine.

Replacing freeze plugs - YouTube

? 3:43
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouxbxE-BMNY
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When coolant goes bad you may find a freeze plug leaking. They usually rot from the inside out. So, when you ...


Dec 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What does a freeze plug look like


A freeze plug is a smooth sided (not threaded) "plug" or "cup" that is pressed into the side of a cast hole in the engine block, leading to the water (coolant) jacket. Its purpose is to be able to pop-out should the coolant in the block ever freeze (such as when antifreeze solution is too diluted or running straight water as coolant). Since water expands when freezing the freeze plugs will pop out, relieving the pressure, rather than having the block crack. Here's some pics of freeze plugs.

Sometimes older freeze plugs corrode, since they are made of metal only about 1/16" thick, and start to leak. That's the most common reason they are replaced.


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25260775-qu0oq53oafs2uwkbtfxhnjmj-5-1.jpg

The link below is a better pic of a freeze plug in the block.

http://www.my2002tii.com/april2004/pic-%20116.jpg

Oct 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace freeze plug


If you look on the side of an engine block you will see a line of circular depressions about an inch and a half in diameter and about a quarter of an inch deep. These are actually holes in the side of the engine block which are plugged with a dish shaped metal plug called a "freeze plug" or "expansion plug".

WHAT FREEZE PLUGS DO

As with many things on a car, there is an "official reason" and a "REAL" reason for freeze plugs. The official reason (and the source of the name) is this: If you run just water with no antifreeze in your car the water can freeze. When water freezes, it expands. If water freezes inside your engine block, it can expand and crack the block, destroying the motor. Freeze plugs (or expansion plugs) will "pop out" and supposedly prevent this. In reality this doesn't work all the time: I've seen MANY blocks destroyed by cracking without the freeze plugs popping out, or if they do pop out the block cracks anyway.

THE REAL PURPOSE OF FREEZE PLUGS

Engines are "sand cast". A special type of sand is poured into a pair of boxes. A "die" is pressed into the sand, making an impression of the engine block to be cast. The sections of the mold are then put together and molten iron is poured in, forming the engine. This is why engines have a rough texture on most areas: this is the texture of the sand used to cast them.

There have to be "cylinders" made of sand in the middle of this mold to create the cylinders of the engine block. These chunks of sand can't just "float" inside the mold: SOMETHING has to hold them in place. There are little columns of sand that connect the cylinder mold to the outer mold half. The mold for the cylinder "sits" on top of these. After the block is cast, these holes are machined smooth and a "freeze plug" is put in to plug the hole.

THE PROBLEM WITH FREEZE PLUGS

The problem with freeze plugs is that they are made of very thin metal, AND THEY RUST!!! From the factory they are made of galvanized steel, and if you always run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze you should never have a problem. Unfortunately many people don't do this, and the freeze plugs rust through, creating a coolant leak.

When I replace freeze plugs or rebuild an engine I always use brass plugs: they only cost a tiny bit more and will not rust through. The manufacturers, of course, will save a penny anywhere they can: pennies add up to millions of dollars!

SIGNS OF BAD FREEZE PLUGS

If you have a bad freeze plug your vehicle will leak coolant. Freeze plugs are in different places on different cars, but normally they will be down the side of the block (at least 3 of them) and in the back of the block, between the engine and the transmission. Some are fairly easy to get to, others require removing various parts off the engine, some even require removing the transmission or engine to replace! Some cylinder heads also have smaller plugs in them, often under the intake or exhaust manifold.

So if you have water leaking down the side of your engine, or water leaking from the hole in the bell housing between the engine and transmission, you probably have a bad freeze plug.

FREEZE PLUG REPAIR

If the leak is slow and small, a stop leak or block seal compound might work. I have had good luck with K&W Liquid Block Seal: it's good stuff! Of course, as with any "rig" of this sort, it might not work, might not last for long, and could clog up something else in your cooling system. The right way to fix it is to replace the freeze plug.

FREEZE PLUG REPLACEMENT

To remove a freeze plug, first hammer it into the block with a big screwdriver or a large punch. It won't go far into a modern engine: there isn't much room behind the plug. When it "pops through" you can easily pry it back out of the hole sideways with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the surface of the hole where the plug sits, or it could leak around the circumference of the new plug.
After the plug is removed, clean the hole in the block with sandpaper to remove the corrosion and old sealant. Once again, if you don't do this the new one might leak.

Normal freeze plugs are hammered in with some sealant around them. I use aviation grade Permatex sealer. If you can't get to them to do this, you have to take off whatever parts are in the way to access the plug. If access is limited, they make replacement freeze plugs made of copper and also ones made of rubber with a nut on them which expands the plug against the block when tightened. I have had bad luck with the rubber type: they blow back out quite often. I have had good results with the copper type (made by Dorman).
I have not had good results with either type on Ford products: Ford for some reason makes their freeze plugs in "odd" dimensions, like 1 and 51/64 of an inch. You can get the copper type plug in 1/8 th increments, but it won't expand enough to fit the Ford size. The rubber type will SEEM to expand enough, but it will stay in for a week or so then blow out, dumping all your coolant out in a matter of seconds!!!

So on all Fords I just do whatever it takes to pound a regular style brass plug into the block.

Here are some pictures of a Ford F-150 truck I just did. The hard part is taking the exhaust and intake manifolds off: after that the job is easy.

Apr 04, 2014 | 1995 Chevrolet Lumina

3 Answers

I have a 1998 Ford Expedition. I have been told that I have a bad coolant leak coming from rear freeze plug and that I should replace the engine. My question is, do the engine need too be replaced or do I...


If you look on the side of an engine block you will see a line of circular depressions about an inch and a half in diameter and about a quarter of an inch deep. These are actually holes in the side of the engine block which are plugged with a dish shaped metal plug called a "freeze plug" or "expansion plug". WHAT FREEZE PLUGS DO As with many things on a car, there is an "official reason" and a "REAL" reason for freeze plugs. The official reason (and the source of the name) is this: If you run just water with no antifreeze in your car's cooling system the water can freeze. When water freezes, it expands. If water freezes inside your engine block, it can expand and crack the block, destroying the motor. Freeze plugs (or expansion plugs) will "pop out" and supposedly prevent this. In reality this doesn't work all the time: I've seen MANY blocks destroyed by cracking without the freeze plugs popping out, or if they do pop out the block cracks anyway. THE REAL PURPOSE OF FREEZE PLUGS OR EXPANSION PLUGS Engines are "sand cast". A special type of sand is poured into a pair of boxes. A "die" is pressed into the sand, making an impression of the engine block to be cast. The sections of the mold are then put together and molten iron is poured in, forming the engine. This is why engines have a rough texture on most areas: this is the texture of the sand used to cast them.There have to be "cylinders" made of sand in the middle of this mold to create the cylinders of the engine block. These chunks of sand can't just "float" inside the mold: SOMETHING has to hold them in place. There are little columns of sand that connect the cylinder mold to the outer mold half. The mold for the cylinder "sits" on top of these. After the block is cast, these holes are machined smooth and a "freeze plug" or "expansion plug" is put in to plug the hole.
THE PROBLEM WITH FREEZE PLUGS OR EXPANSION PLUGS The problem with freeze plugs or expansion plugs is that they are made of very thin metal, AND THEY RUST!!! From the factory they are made of galvanized steel, and if you always run a 50/50 mix of antifreeze in your cooling system you should never have a problem. Unfortunately many people don't do this, and the freeze plugs rust through, creating a cooling system leak.When I replace freeze plugs or rebuild an engine I always use brass plugs: they only cost a tiny bit more and will not rust through. The manufacturers don't use brass plugs of course: they cost a few cents more, and they will save a penny anywhere they can: pennies add up to millions of dollars!
SIGNS OF BAD FREEZE PLUGS If you have a bad freeze plug your vehicle will leak coolant. If you have a slow cooling system leak that comes and goes, you may have a pinhole freeze plug leak. l Freeze plugs are in different places on different cars, but normally they will be down the side of the block (at least 3 of them) and in the back of the block, between the engine and the transmission. Some are fairly easy to get to, others require removing various parts off the engine, some even require removing the transmission or engine to replace! Some cylinder heads also have smaller plugs in them, often under the intake or exhaust manifold.So if you have water leaking down the side of your engine, or water leaking from the hole in the bell housing between the engine and transmission, you probably have a bad freeze plug. Sometimes the hole in the freeze plug is very small, and can periodically stop when a piece of crud from the cooling system jams in the hole.
FREEZE PLUG REPAIR If the leak is slow and small, a stop leak or block seal compound might work. I have had good luck with K&W Liquid Block Seal: it's good stuff! Of course, as with any "rig" of this sort, it might not work, might not last for long, and could clog up something else in your cooling system. The right way to fix it is to replace the freeze plug. FREEZE PLUG REPLACEMENT To remove a freeze plug, first hammer it into the block with a big screwdriver or a large punch. It won't go far into a modern engine: there isn't much room behind the plug. When it "pops through" you can easily pry it back out of the hole sideways with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the surface of the hole where the plug sits, or it could leak around the circumference of the new plug.
After the plug is removed, clean the hole in the block with sandpaper to remove the corrosion and old sealant. Once again, if you don't do this the new one might leak.Normal freeze plugs are hammered in with some sealant around them. I use aviation grade Permatex sealer.
A special tool is made to install freeze plugs: the tool is available at a good auto parts store. In a pinch you can use a large socket that just barely fits inside the rim of the plug, however this can damage the new plug if you aren't careful.
If you can't get to the freeze plug to hammer it in, you have to take off whatever parts are in the way to access the plug. Sometimes it's easier to remove the engine from the car. Another option when access is limited is an expanding replacement freeze plug. These replacement plugs are made of either copper or rubber. A nut on them expands the plug against the block when tightened. These plugs can be installed in areas too tight to hammer in a regular freeze plug. I have had bad luck with the rubber type: they blow back out quite often. I have had good results with the copper type (made by Dorman).
I have not had good results with either type on Ford products: Ford for some reason makes their freeze plugs in "odd" dimensions, like 1 and 51/64 of an inch. You can get the copper type plug in 1/8 th increments, but it won't expand enough to fit the Ford size. The rubber type will SEEM to expand enough, but it will stay in for a week or so then blow out, dumping all your coolant out in a matter of seconds!!!
So on all Fords I just do whatever it takes to pound a regular style brass plug into the block.

Here are some pictures of a Ford F-150 truck freeze plug job I did.

The hard part is taking the exhaust and intake manifolds off: after that the job is easy. CAUTION! I have one issue with this freeze plug video: He uses no sealant on the new freeze plugs, and he's not using brass freeze plugs.
I always use aviation grade permatex sealant on freeze plugs. It's available at any good auto parts store.Don't use RTV silicone: I've seen freeze plugs "pop out" with silicon seal.
Freeze plugs will work when put in "dry", but they might "weep" a small amount of coolant.
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Apr 03, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the freeze plug located


The engine in your Ford Explorer has freeze plugs, also called expansion plugs, mounted in the sides of the block. Freeze plugs are supposed to protect the engine block if the water in the engine freezes -- the expanded water is supposed to push out the freeze plug, although that doesn't always happen. Freeze plugs are made of thin steel compared to the engine block, and even with an anti-freeze mixture the plugs can rust out and require replacement.

Read more: How to Replace a Freeze Plug on a 1992 Ford Explorer ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7670495_replace-plug-1992-ford-explorer.html#ixzz2IBxfNrjb

Jan 17, 2013 | 1992 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

How to change freeze plug out in chevy silverado 93 model


Only one way to change engine or head freeze plugs: hit them with a sharp object to puncture them, then pry them out tilted. You have to have enough room to do this, otherwise you will not be able to tap a new one in it's place!

Dec 16, 2012 | 1993 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

I have a 1991 chevy lumina with a 3.1 v6 engine. I am trying to replace my freeze plugs but i can't locate them. Where are they located?


Which ones? There are several. There are 2 or 3 freeze plugs on each side of the engine block. There are 2 freeze plugs on the back of the block between the engine and the transmission and there is one in each cylinder head. Freeze plugs can be very difficult to change properly with the engine still in the car unless you vave the correct tools and equipment to get the job done. They can be very tricky getting them in correctly when you DO have the proper tools.

Jun 11, 2011 | 1991 Chevrolet Lumina

3 Answers

My mechanic said my freeze plugs where shot .Can you tell me where are they and what are they .My truck is over heating in a very short period.


Freeze plugs are round, metal/aluminum plugs located in various spots on the engine block. Their purpose is to prevent the engine block from cracking in freezing weather IF you don't have anti-freeze in your car/truck. The plugs will pop out as the water freezes (and expands) releasing the water from the engine block. Kind of a safety-valve device.
I am questioning your "mechanics" dstatement that they are 'shot'. They are either good (not leaking) or bad (leaking). If they are "shot" then you should be loosing antifreeze all over the place. Ask your "mechanic" for a reasonable explanation for his diagnosis.
I would suspect something else other than the freeze plugs causing your overheating problem (i.e. stuck thermostat, clogged radiator, cooling fans not working, blown head gasket)...
I would try ANOTHER mechanic, maybe one recommended by a friend. Lots of so-called mechanics out there that couldn't fix a pedal car....

Dec 16, 2010 | 1996 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

IS THERE A FREEZE PLUG BETWEEN THE BELL HOUSING AND ENGINE ON A 1999 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE AND IF THERE IS WHAT KIND OF LABOR AM i LOOKING AT/


Yes. Generally there are two on the rear of the block. What most people do not understand is that the "freeze plugs" are not put there to serve that purpose and won't save a block during a freeze up. The actual function is to allow removal of the "stuffing" used when the block is being cast, in order to keep the internal water jackets open. They are actually called welsh plugs.
You are looking at removal of the transmission and transfer case as well as the flywheel Cost of that depends on local labor rates. The freeze plugs themselves are rather inexpensive. Being fairly inaccessible, when replacing those particular ones I always use brass plugs made for marine engines. Even though externally protected by the bellhousing, they generally fail from the inside out, making the brass plugs a good option.
good luck

Dec 23, 2009 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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