Question about 2002 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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Our brake pedal locked up, when i stepped on it again there was a puff of air that came out,and then it started working again. Then next time i used the brakes it did it again. The car sat overnight at the dealership and now it is not having the problem. we were in San francisco when it happened, and then i was able to drive it about 3 hours home with no problems. the dealership could find nothing wrong with it.

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  • 150 Answers

Sounds like the brake booster is at fault here

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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Brake bleeding


keep bleeding and you need two people to bleed brakes using pedal pump method --fill master with fluid and have some one pump and hold then open bleeder then close it --then have the some one pumps again [ repeat steps ] when no air -go to next wheel and check in beetween fluid level adding when needed
How To Bleed Brakes Yahoo Video Search Results How to Bleed Your Brakes dummies How to Bleed Car Brakes

Jul 28, 2017 | 1999 Mazda 626

1 Answer

Changed the master cylender and vacuum booster and blead the system by the book and still cant get breaks without pumping them.


There must be air in the system some where. i am not sure of the year ,make and model of this van and also not sure of the brake system, for example if you have drum brakes in the rear then first adjust them.
The next step is to fill the master cylinder, make sure there are no leak anywhere.Next step start at the master cylinder, at the line to master do not worry about abs system. have someone inside ready to pump brake pedal and hold.Have them pump pedal three times and hold pedal with a little pressure.make sure as you open the bleeder they push on pedal and keep foot on brake until you tell them to pump again. the pedal is to be pumped three times every times.
With pedal pumped start at master lines, open one allow to bleed a little then close and move to next and allow to bleed. if master has more than two lines then pump again and do two, open one and close then open two and close then pump again. After master is bleed a few times and no air comes out then move to right rear wheel, pump three times and hold while you open bleeder, this is to be done about four times to make sure you get a good flow of fluid with no air .
NOTE: always keep master cylinder full, check after each wheel. make sure the person pumping the brakes does not lift until you say and the bleeder is closed. After the right rear wheel you will move to left rear and then right front wheel and last is the left front wheel.
Make sure there are no bad wheel bearings, lift wheel of the ground and grab and check for movement by pulling wheel out and in from top to bottom, the last thing is make sure the caliper slides are free moving.
If the caliper does not slide on the bracket freely then the piston will not stay on pad and pedal will need to be pumped to get a pedal. good day.

Mar 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 2004 Land cruiser and changed the right rear brake cyl and brake shoes . What is the proper procedure to bleed the rear brake system. Thank you for your help.


  1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
  2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
    2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
    3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
    4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.

  3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
  4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
  5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
  6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
  7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
  8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Aug 07, 2011 | 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser

2 Answers

Vehicle was working fine without any problems one day and the next day - totally locked up when I started it and tried to back up. First thought the parking brake was somehow engaged fully, but when I...


What i would start with is jack up the rear two tires and try to freely move them with your hands.

If they are locked in place then you have a problem with your rear brakes.

If the back ones both turn freely. Then move on to the front and jack up the front of the car.

You can check to see if the transmission by either turning on the vehicle and putting it in drive with both front tires off the ground and see if both spin freely. If one if them locks up then you have a problem with your front brakes.

Take it one step at a time and check everything out brake wise again, even though you latched and released the parking brake the spring mechanism could be broken and locking it in place.

Mar 03, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

What is the proper way to bleed the brakes on a 2007 Hyundai Entourage?


to do a manual bleed first be sure to keep the reservoir full at all times during this procedure. start with the wheel furthest from the brake master cylinder. fill a small glass jar half full of fresh brake fluid. (don't ever use brake fluid that's been sitting around for any period of time with a broken seal on its container brake fluid is a hygroscopic fluid that actually absorbs water from the air even with the cap on the bottle it can be diluted making it less than useful.) find a flexible hose type straw that will fit on the bleeder head of your brake line tightly. step 1 ) stick the hose down into the jar submerging it in the fluid.( this is done so that when pressure is released the system doesn't **** in air which is what you trying to get out to begin with) step 2 ) have someone LIGHTLY( the brake system has pressure built up inside it and can shoot fluid many yards with excessive velocity this can cause damage to painted body parts or may cause bodily harm) press lightly on the brake pedal,step 3 ) you then slowly turn the bleeder screw until you see air or fluid coming out the end of your submerged hose,( the pedal should start to depress). when the pedal is pressed completely down have them hold it there, step 4 ) you then re-tighten the bleeder screw and have them release the pedal slowly.step 5 ) top off the brake fluid reservoir and repeat steps 1 through 5 until there is no longer air coming out, then tighten the bleeder screw down snug and move to the next closest wheel and do all again until all four wheels brakes have been bled. be sure to top off the reservoir when your done. i ope this helps

Dec 22, 2010 | 2007 Hyundai Entourage Limited Minivan

1 Answer

When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...


try this ABS bleeding procedure:

WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
    3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
    6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
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Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Open the bleeder valve.
    3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
    4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

  4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
  7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
    3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
    7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

  8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
  9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
  10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

  11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

Our kia amanti's breaks build up and stop the car, then when we use a wrench and blead the line under the hood the breaks start working normally again.


do you mean that you pump the brakes to build up pressure in order to stop?

bleeding brakes requires you to bleed them from each wheel starting at the right rear. procede as follows: have someone sit in the drivers seat. have them pump the brakes slowly and forceably to build up pressure. maintain force on the pedal. starting at the right rear, open the bleed screw slowly. the pedal will go to the floor and the fluid will drain. hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the bleed screw. repeat this procedure several times until you are sure there is no air in the line. follow these steps at each wheel- left rear, right front, left front. keep reservoir filled with fluid. fill after each wheel. (note) get a length of rubber hose that fits snuggly over the end of the bleed screw
and drain fluid into a container.

i think you were draining the anti-lock brake system. in which, case follow the steps above for that also.

Feb 25, 2010 | 2005 Kia Amanti

1 Answer

My '78 mercedes had a leaky master cylinder, it leaked into the vac. boost. I replaced it, but now it has no pedal play and when pumped a couple times it seems to keep brakes on a little. Is there an...


Hi,
You have air in your brake lines. Get that taken care of, you don't want to slam on your breaks in an emergency to have a pedal go to the floor.
I think Walmart sells a brake bleeding kit, though I've never used one. I can tell you a process I've used though...
You'll need two people, one in the car ready to pump brake and the other with wrench in hand ready to get a little brake fluid on them. :o)
On each wheel next to the brake line connection, is a fitting. It looks like a grease fitting, but it's your bleeder fitting.
Loosen the fitting then just snug it back... to get ready. Tell the person in the car to pump the brake pedal and hold it! Slowly loosen your fitting again. Either air, or fluid will come out of the bleeder. Bear in mind, as you do this, the pedal inside will go down. Inform the person to keep their foot pressed to the pedal at all times until you tighten up the fitting again... else, when they lift, the pedal will **** air back into the line. Do this several times untill you are sure all of the air is out of that line. There should be a steady flow of fluid only.
Make sure your fluid level is full in your master cylinder too! As you lose fluid, you want don't want to empty the supply... air again!
Do this same procedure on all four wheels. You'll have an air free brake system!
Now you're a pro! Next time I need my brakes bled, I'll call you... ha
Good luck, hope it helped.

Aug 27, 2009 | 1990 Mercedes-Benz 300 Diesel

2 Answers

No pedal


Hello;
Did you bleed the master prior to installation? If not you may have a bunch of air trapped in the system. Start at the master and use a pressure bleeder too get the air out. If you have anti-lock you may have to have the dealer purge the system.
Thanks;
Rich
RPM Northwest

Jun 04, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

2 Answers

Having trouble bleeding brakes on my ford f150 4x4 i had to put a new caliper on left front.i bled the front brakes but still cant gmuch of a pedal.is  there a switch or valve i need to turn off so...


1 Siphon off the old brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood.
2 Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid (don't reuse old fluid as it holds moisture and will corrode your brake system).

3 Start with the brake farthest from the Master cylinder, usually rear wheel, passenger side. Pull off the rubber cover on the bleeder valve. Attach the aquarium air line to the nipple on the bleeder.

4 Have your assistant pump the brake pedal up and down 3-4 times, then hold the pedal down fairly hard.
5 Open the bleeder, let fluid flow out through the air line into a waste container. (preferrably a clear bottle so you can see any air bubbles escaping the system). When the fluid stops and your assistant's foot hits the firewall (brake pedal all the way down), close the bleeder valve immediately!
6 Go to step #4 above and drain more fluid out of the bleeder valve until clean fluid comes out. Check the master cylinder every time and top it up as necessary. This procedure uses lots of fluid.

7 Now move to the rear brake on the driver's side. Go to step #4 and repeat the same procedures above until clean fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and no bubbles.
8 Next is the front brake, passenger side, same procedure. Then the drivers side and the same procedure.
9 When finished check for any leaks, remount rubber covers on the bleeder valve nipples. Remount all wheels, re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving.
10 Start vehicle and depress the brake pedal. It should feel much less spongy than before this procedure. If not, there is air in the system, start over. Bleed everything again.
Note: if you assistant releases the brake pedal before you can close the bleeder valve then air will be introduced into the brake lines. This is no good! Before you start tell your assistant you will tell him/her PUMP, HOLD DOWN, RELEASE commands.

That's it, you're done. Congratulate yourself on saving some cash instead of handing it over to a mechanic.

May 13, 2009 | 2004 Ford F150

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