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How do you get the pads out of the rear disk brakes on a ford c max

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I have a 2004 CMax and this is how you do it:

  1. Put the car on a level surface, keep it in first gear, take the handbrake off and rock the car to make sure it won't move anywhere, stick some blocks under the front wheels (to make doubly sure it won't move). The car needs to be secure so it won't move (you may have gathered it is very important the car can't move)
  2. Remove the rear wheel (lay it down under the car on the side that is jacked up - that way the car will fall on to the wheel it if slips off the jack, which gives you a fighting chance of getting it jacked back up again)
  3. Remove the caliper - this is clearly exposed once the wheel is off. If you look at the top rear of the capliper you will see two bolts, one each side, that are encased in a rubber sheath with a hard plastic cap on the end. Remove the plastic cap and then undo the bolts (you may need to get a 7mm brake caliper key, £7 from halfords, if you don't have a suitable stong 7mm hex key). These bolts are torqued to 41 lb/ft so you may need to give them a couple of sharp taps with a hammer to get them moving.
  4. There is a spring underneath the caliper that you will easily see if looking at the front of the caliper (i.e. look towards the disc). Prize this off (use pliers, it has some tension and will hurt if it pings off against your hand).
  5. The Caliper will now lift off (you may have to give it a gentle tap or wiggle it about to free it). You should secure the caliper so it does not hang by the hose - a bit of string or rubber band will do fine. Note at this point that if you have the handbrake on you can't get the caliper off !
  6. The pad at the rear of the disc should now lift out pretty easily. The pad at the front pulls away (or lifts). As with the caliper you may need to wiggle the pads about to get them out.
  7. Refitting is just the reverse, but you must wind the brake piston back into the caliper. This is the tricky bit - the front brake piston can be pushed in, but if your car has ABS the rear brake piston requires a special tool so that the piston can be wound back in, it can't be pushed in. Sealey do a tool that fits, it is model VS023 and will cost about £20. If you don't wind the brake piston back in there is no way in the world the caliper will fit back on (unless you are using the same pads you took out).
  8. The brake caliper bolts should be torqued to 41 lb/ft. Also, use copper grease on all the bolts to make them easier to get back in (minimizes the chance of cross threading the caliper bolts). Don't forget to replace the spring - it is a bit fiddly to get the pins into the holes in the caliper, but long-nosed pliers make the job easier. Don't forget to put the plastic caps back into the rubber sheaths around the caliper bolts- this protects the caliper bolts from road muck.
  9. When both wheels have been done press the brake pedal a few times to reset the brake pistons (if you don't do this you risk not having any brakes the first time you hit them)
That's all there is to it (as Brucey used to say). Probably take about an hour per wheel if you are taking it easy, a lot less if you are in a hurry.

Posted on May 12, 2009


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