Question about 2001 Land Rover Discovery Series II
How do I get the old one out?
I have just done this and while the following seems like a bit of a marathon I used a salvage part at $80.00 and saved myself over $300.00 on taking the car to a dealer to have the job done
The process was:
Trim removal tool or flat head screwdriver
Torx wrenches in two sizes
Sockets on 8mm and 12mm
Philips head screwdriver
Soldering iron and solder
Electrical heat shrink tubing
1) Lift off inner window sill, it is held on with metal spring clips
2) Remove inner mirror trim. It is held by a single snap pin towards the top centre and two moulded clips at the bottom. Lever the top out first
3) Undo mirror plug from its support lug and disconnect. There are three bayonet clips that hold the two halves together. Take care not to lose the neoprene seal
3a) The male plug is routed through a *********** in the window framw sill. I could not feed it back through the hole to alloe removel of the frame so I snipped the wires and re soldered them on re-assembly (hense the solder and heat shrink) They are colour coded but I used correction fluid to make sure that I had them properly identified.
3b) Remove the mirror. It is secured vie three hex bolts about 8mm
4)Remove the door lever shroud, there is a single allen head screw. Remove the fastening screws for the arm rest and the storage bin. There are four longer allen head screws. Put them aside safely
Gently lever off the door card (liner) there are a number of snap clips across the top and the sides and two or three different clips across the bottom. I started wat the top and worked my way across and down and only broke one of the bottom clips. When the card came away some of the clips stayed on the door. I eased these out and reinserted them in the card; it made reinstallation much easier later. Undo the speaker plug and remember to re attach later (I'm speaking from bitter experience here)
5) Remove the bottom half and outer (lock) edge of the plastic liner sheet. Mine came awat with most of the sealant bead on it wihich I was able to use when I put the plastic back. Where the plastic ran under studs etc i knife trimmed around it and duct taped the cuts in reinstallation.
6) Undo the 2 bolts attaching the window glass from the lift mechanism runner. You will have to slightly raise the window to gain access
7) Undo the window frame attaching bolts, there are 5. Two torx bolts and are external one each at the leading and trailing edge or the door. Two are hex head on the bottom of the font and rear or the window frame and are easily accessed from inside or the door. The fifth (and the Haynes manual missed this) is accesses through a cut-out in the door inner lining up near the mirror. It is acout 12mm
8) Hold the window frame and raise the window to full height. Tape the glass to the frame on many places.
9) With help lift out the glass and frame together and lty no its side on something soft. Don't place too much faith in the tape.
10)Unto the door latch fixing bolts (these are Torx also) and the allen head screw fixed through the inner panel of the door
11)Working inside the door release the door lever connecting link fron the door lever. This is connected via a clip at the top of the link which slides over a pin and onto a clip on the lever mechanism. A photo at this stage would be useful later Bitter experience again
12)The lock can now be manoevered out of the door and the remaining
connections (central locking plug and inner door handle cable ) released.
13) You are now ready to install the replacement unit. It goes in easily but you need to take care with a couple of items. Firstly make sure that the lock nob is screwed ont its link arm by the same number of turns as the original otherwise the nob may not rise to the correct height above the inner sill when it is installed. Secondly, there is a link shaft between the key and the lockset. It simply slides into place but you need to do this before you finally position the unit
14) Test the functions. If all OK then reassemble
Reassembly. This is pretty much the reversal of the disassembly process but there are a couple of things to watch
a) before tightening the bolts fixing the window glass to the runner, run the window up and down a couple of times to settle the glass to the runner in the correct position then tighten the bolts.
b) After replacing the plastic I used reinforced duct tape to seal any cuts I had made
c) Put the heat shrink on to one of the cut ends of the mirror wires before soldering them together. It is too late later. Position and shrink the heat shrink before putting the plug back on it's clip. It is too congested to do this when it is clipped.
d) When refitting the door card position and snap in one of the clips at one top corner of the door and then the other corner. All the other clips will then be aligned and the card should snap on easily.
e) Unless you have a magnetises philips head screwdriver the arm rest and storage bin fixing screws are quite difficule to insert. I ended up pushonf the screw tips through the sticky side if a short length of insulation tape and then stretching the tape back over the shaft of the screwdriver to hold the screw to the screwdriver. Worked like a charm
Posted on Oct 08, 2012
Remove the door trim (buy new clips and a trim removal tool, worth the money and you will break clips)
Unbolt the window glass from the regulator.
Unbolt the window frame from the door, and lift that and the glass out as a single section. Assistance for this point is recommended.
You should now be able to remove the door lock unit. If it's still fouling, you may need to remove the regulator & motor from the lower part of the door.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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