Question about Isuzu MU-7

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I had to remove the turbo to take the manifold off and put the bolts and nuts in a safe place so i would remember where they go i have recently moved house and my brothers grabed the nuts and bolts now im sure im short of bolts but i dont have a clue ? please help me

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When you replace engine parts always use new bolts and or nuts. over time they tend to stretch and won't hold the torque tolerances so you can purchase then at either a GM service shop or an after market part store like Napa or O'Reilly's

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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Diragram on how to change the water pump on a 1995 z24 cavalier 2.3


Check this procedure, according with the repair guide for...

2.3L and 2.4L Engines
(see Figure 9)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
  2. Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
  3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain.
  4. Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
  5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
  6. Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
  7. Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
  8. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
  1. Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
  2. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
    1. Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
    2. Remove the other bolt.
    3. Remove the first bolt.
On the 2.4L engines, DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4° or damage may occur.Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
  1. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
  2. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  3. Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
  4. For the 2.4L engine, remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
  5. Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces.

zjlimited_2033.jpg

Fig. 9: Water pump and cover mounting - 2.3L and 2.4L engines (click over image for zoom)

To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
  2. Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
  3. Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slid the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
  4. With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
    1. Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
    2. Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    3. Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
    4. Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
  5. Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
  6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  7. Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
  8. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
  9. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed.
  10. On the 2.4L engine, install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
  11. Install the lower heat shield.
  12. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  13. Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
  14. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
  15. Install the upper heat shield.
  16. Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
  17. Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
  18. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine off.
  19. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.

Hope helps; remember to rating this answer and leave a testimonial comment. Thank you for using FixYa.

Oct 13, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

What is the torque setting for 1999 ford 182 exaust manifold


Check this for 1996-1999 FORD 3.0L (182) V6 DOHC...
- Install the exhaust manifold with a new exhaust manifold gasket.
- Install the exhaust manifold retaining studs and tighten to 13-16 ft. lbs. (18-22 Nm) in the sequence illustrated.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Position the Y-pipe assembly using a new flange gasket and install all the retaining nuts and bolts loosely.
Starting at the front of the system tighten the Y-pipe to exhaust manifold nuts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm).

- Tighten the converter to transaxle nut and bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (40.3 Nm). Tighten the converter outlet bolts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm).

zjlimited_1988.jpg

Fig. Right side exhaust manifold mounting bolt tightening sequence-3.0L DOHC engine (click image for zoom)


zjlimited_1989.jpg

Fig. Left side exhaust manifold mounting bolt tightening sequence-3.0L DOHC engine (click over image for zoom)

Hope this helps (remember to rating this answer).

Oct 06, 2011 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Need to remove the turbocharger from truck to replace oil cooler. Am unable to get it out. It is a 2003 ford 250 superduty tubo diesel 6.0 litre


1 - Remove the turbocharger intake tube
2 - Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet pipe
3 - Remove the push pins on turbo cowl
4 - Disconnect the turbo VGT solenoid
5 - Remove the oil supply tube
6 - Using the special tool, remove the oil feed tube
7 - Remove clamp from the turbo down pipe
8 - Remove the clamp from the turbo inlet
9 - Loosen the exhaust inlet pipe-to-EGR cooler clamp
10 - Loosen the RH & LH exhaust inlet pipe-to-exhaust manifold nuts
11 - Remove the rear turbocharger mounting bolt
12 - Remove the front mounting bolts
13 - Position the turbocharger and remove the turbocharger drain tube
14 - Remove the turbocharger

If you cant do it with these instructions put down your wrench and take to a dealership for a professional to work on it

Sep 03, 2010 | 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cab

1 Answer

Where are the exhaust system bolts located?


Removal & Installation 2.2L Engine To Remove:
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable.
    • Heat shield.
    • Oxygen sensor.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Remove the exhaust manifold mounting nuts from the cylinder head. chevy_cav_02-04_exmanifold.gif

  6. Remove the exhaust manifold.
  7. Clean the mating surfaces.
  8. Check for cracks, broken flanges and gasket surface damage.
  9. Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge. If the flanges or the mating surfaces do not align, the manifold is warped and should be replaced.
To Install:
NOTE: The manufacturer recommends using new exhaust system nuts.
  1. Install the manifold gasket.
  2. Position the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head. Exhaust manifold 2.2L 87953055.gif

  3. Install the new exhaust manifold nuts. Tighten the nuts starting from the center and working toward the ends to 110 in lbs (12.5 Nm).
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Install the exhaust pipe to the manifold using a new flex coupler gasket.
  6. Install new exhaust flange mounting nuts.
    • Tighten to 33 ft lbs (45 Nm).
  7. Lower the vehicle.
  8. Install the oxygen sensor.
  9. Install the heat shield.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.
2.4L Engine To Remove:
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
  2. Disconnect the Oxygen (O2) sensor electrical connector.
  3. Remove the (O2) sensor.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Exhaust brace 2.4L 87953053.gif

  5. Remove the exhaust manifold brace-to-manifold bolt and the oil pan nuts, if necessary. Exhaust heat shield 2.4L 87953051.gif

  6. Remove the upper heat shield. NOTE: Do NOT bend the exhaust flex decoupler more than necessary to remove it. Excessive movement will damage the flex decoupler
    Exhaust flex decoupler 87953056.gif

  7. Remove the manifold-to-exhaust flex decoupler fasteners.
  8. Remove the exhaust pipe.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head mounting nuts/bolts. Remove the exhaust manifold.
  11. Discard the gaskets and/or seals. Clean the mating surfaces.
To Install:
Exhaust manifold 2.4L 87953055.gif

  1. Install new exhaust manifold gaskets. Position the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head. Tighten the mounting bolts in sequence to 110 in lbs (12.5 Nm).
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten the mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs (14 Nm).
  4. Install the exhaust manifold brace-to-manifold bolt and the oil pan nuts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 41 ft lbs (56 Nm) and the nuts to 18 ft lbs (24 Nm).
  5. Position the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the manifold-to-flex decoupler mounting bolts. Tighten to 26 ft lbs (35 Nm).
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Coat the threads with a suitable anti-seize compound and install the O2 sensor.
  8. Connect the O2 sensor electrical connector.
  9. Connect the battery ground cable and check for leaks.
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Sep 02, 2010 | 2000 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

Replace starter


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

3.0L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  3. Remove the terminal nuts, washers, and electrical leads from the starter motor.
  4. Remove the passenger side catalytic converter.
  5. Remove the passenger side engine mount nuts, and lower the vehicle.
  6. Disconnect the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
    1. Detach the electrical connector for the Mass Air Flow (MAF) and the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensors.
    2. Disconnect the resonance chamber air intake hose from the air cleaner housing and MAF sensor.
    3. Remove the (IAC) inlet hose and the intake plenum air inlet hoses.
    4. Detach the electrical connector from the switchover valve and the remaining vacuum connections.

  7. Install the engine support fixture J28467-A with adapters J28467-450 or equivalents and raise the passenger side of the engine.
NOTE Passenger side of the engine must be raised approximately 1.5 inches (38 mm).
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  2. Remove the engine mount from the engine mount bracket and cradle.
  3. Remove the engine mount bracket bolts and reposition the bracket.
  4. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Install the starter motor to the vehicle and tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  2. Position the engine mount bracket and install the bolts. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  3. Install the engine mount to the engine mount bracket and cradle. Partially lower the vehicle.
  4. Lower the engine. Have an assistant guide the engine mount into place while lowering the engine. The engine mount locator tab must engage the slot in the cradle.
  5. Reinstall the resonance chamber-to-throttle body ducts.
  6. Raise the vehicle.
  7. Install the passenger side engine mount nuts. Tighten the upper nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Tighten the lower nut to 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
  8. Install the passenger side catalytic converter.
  9. Plug in the electrical leads, install the washers, and terminal nuts to the starter motor. Tighten the battery cable terminal nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm). And the solenoid terminal nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Connect the negative battery cable.

4.6L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
NOTE In order to get to the starter assembly the intake manifold must be removed. Refer to the procedure for removing the intake manifold.
  1. Reposition the front bank spark plug wires.
  2. Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body.
  3. Detach the electrical connectors for the intake manifold, Throttle Position (TP) sensor, and Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control solenoid and Cruise Control Servo.
  4. Disconnect the vacuum hoses at the brake vacuum booster, fuel pipe bundle and to the body.
  5. Disconnect the PCV hoses at the intake manifold.
  6. Unhook the accelerator cable at the throttle body and position it out of the way.
  7. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the fuel pipe quick connects at the fuel pipe bundle in the engine compartment.
  8. Remove the EVAP solenoid bracket at the rear (or right) cam cover.
  9. Reposition the transaxle range control cable away from the cruise control servo.
  10. Disconnect the coolant hoses at the throttle body and to the coolant reservoir and plug the hoses. Wrap a shop towel around the hoses when disconnecting to avoid spillage.
  11. Remove the four intake manifold bolts and lift the intake manifold with the throttle body out of the engine compartment.
  12. Unbolt the solenoid 'S' terminal nut and battery cable nut. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts, and lift the starter motor out of the manifold cavity.
To install:

NOTE Before installing the starter motor to the engine, tighten inner nuts on the solenoid terminals to be sure they are secure in the cap. Tighten the inner nuts on the battery terminal and motor terminal to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). If the nuts are not properly tightened, the starter may fail later due to the terminal or cap damage.
  1. Install the solenoid switch lead, and tighten the nut to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  2. Install the battery cable nut and tighten to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
  3. Install the starter motor and tighten the mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  4. Install the intake manifold with the throttle body onto the engine and install the four bolts. The four intake manifold bolts must be tightend in a specific sequence to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm), then an additional 120°.
  5. Connect the coolant hoses at the throttle body and at the coolant reservoir. Add coolant as needed.
  6. Position the transaxle range control cable to the cruise control bracket.
  7. Fasten the EVAP solenoid bracket to the rear cam cover.
  8. Reconnect the fuel pipes quick connects at the fuel pipe bundle in the engine compartment.
  9. Hook the accelerator cable up at the throttle body.
  10. Connect the vacuum hoses at the brake vacuum booster, fuel pipe bundle and to the body. Install the PCV hose at the intake manifold.
  11. Install the electrical connectors for the intake manifold, the TP sensor ISC motor, EVAP solenoid and the cruise control servo.
  12. Install the air intake duct to the throttle body.
  13. Reposition the front bank spark plug wires.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Connect the positive battery cable.

4.5L and 4.9L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle securely on jackstands.
  3. Remove the starter motor shield.
  4. Remove the exhaust front and rear pipe assembly.
  5. Remove the flexplate inspection cover.
  6. Disconnect the solenoid 'S' terminal nut and battery cable nut.
  7. Unbolt the starter motor mounting bolts, and remove the starter motor.
e2d3282.jpg
Fig. Typical starter mounting on early models

b5066a8.jpg
Fig. Later model starter location and mounting on the 4.9L engine


a697aa3.jpg
Fig. Starter mounting on 4.5L engine with a starter shield


To install:
  1. Install the starter motor, and tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  2. Install the solenoid 'S' terminal nut. Tighten the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
  3. Install the battery cable nut and tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
  4. Install the flexplate inspection cover, the front and rear exhaust pipe assembly and the starter motor shield.
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope trhis help (remember comment and rated this).

Apr 08, 2010 | 1992 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

How to remove the egr valve on a 1993 mercury grand marquis


Jack up the passengers side of the car, get a 1 1/16" wrench break loose the fitting to the manifold, hold a 24 mm wrench on the fitting to the manifold, loosen the flare nut on the tube. Then using a 10 mm socket, about 2 inches long, loosen the two nuts under the EGR valve, then take the both out, remove the vacuum hose to the top of the EGR valve, and the sensing line from the small tube. then completely remove the flare nut from the orifice fitting on the manifold. BE CAREFUL with the tube, do not bend it or break it, you may find PB blaster useful the night before on a cold engine loosen these fittings. Once the EGR valve is out, remove the orifice out of the manifold, remove the tube from the EGR valve, again be careful, mark the tube to EGR position before pulling this off, because the top fitting to EGR needs tightened before you put it back in, it will make the lower fitting difficult if you do not line it up right, dry fitting from under the car is helpful, mark it, and then tighten the top. Clean out the tube, be careful not to bend the little tube, either inside or outside the larger tube, it sticks out inside. Clean the orifice, clean the manifold face carefully not to score it, check for blockage there too. Apply anti-seize to the orifice, put it back in the manifold, then apply anti-seize to the bolts for the EGR valve, and the flare nuts both ends. Apply some silicon to the EGR valve face, just enough to hold the gasket in place, put the new gasket on, start the bolts two turns in the gasket, it will hold them in place, then start them in the manifold, then start the lower flare fitting to orifice, tighten the top bolts, and then the flare nut, connect the vacuum line, connect the sensing line. I just recently did this process, it works, if have other EGR issues, the valve is the easiest.

Oct 13, 2009 | 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis

2 Answers

How do i change the starter on a 96 century


If it's the 3.1 or the newer 3100 the starter should just be a couple 13 and 15mm bolts. Plus the nut for the cable. Hope this helps.

Jul 13, 2009 | 1996 Buick Century

1 Answer

I need instructions for replacing the turbo on a Saab 1999 9-5 4 cyl turbo


Hi, I have done this and it is not too bad, but will take you about 4 hours if you are good, and longer if you have not done much mechanics.

The trick is to find a reasonably priced turbo, check ebay. There is a dude on there that just does rebuilt turbos. Very good, got mine for $

I have been reading up on turbo replacement procedure and I have found this list: First, there are a couple of questions that I have about the list:

2 air openings, pretty easy to figure out
2 exhaust openings, pretty easy to figure out
3 round openings in the center, all banjo bolts?
1 round / two bolt opening in the center.
1 Hose fitting off of the waste-gate
1 Hose fitting off of the air side of the turbo.

STEP 1 Open the expansion tank cap to release the system pressure.
STEP 2 Raise the car & Remove the lower front cover under the car
STEP 3 Drain off the coolant & Remove the turbo brackets
STEP 4 Loosen the return fitting and the pipe from the turbo to the block
STEP 5 Loosen the oil pipe between the filter adapter and the turbo
STEP 6 Lower the car to the floor & Remove the bypass valve & Unplug the connector from the control valve
STEP 7 Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector & Loosen the hoses to the turbo
STEP 8 Remove the crankcase banjo bolt from the intake manifold and unscrew the bolt from the cam cover
STEP 9 Move the pipe and wiring aside & Remove the engine lifting eye
STEP 10 Remove the mass air flow sensor and air hose
STEP 11 Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield by removing the nut and two clips from underneath
STEP 12 Undo the intake manifold clamp at the turbo & remove the intake
STEP 13 Disconnect the hose clip on the hose between the intercooler & turbo & plug it to keep something from falling in it
STEP 14 Loosen the front exhaust system from the turbo & lower the front exhaust system away from the turbo (DO NOT BEND -THE FLEX HOSE)
STEP 15 Remove the oil pipe from the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif adapter & grab the copper washers
STEP 16 Loosen the coolant pipe by the turbo & grab the copper washers & loosen the coolant pipe bolt
STEP 17 Remove the coolant return pipe from the cylinder head & pressure sensor bracket. Once again, Grab the copper washers
STEP 18 Undo the coolant return pipe bolt by the turbo
STEP 19 Undo the nuts securing the turbo to the exhaust manifoldmag-glass_10x10.gif. (spray the nuts with WD40)
STEP 20 Install in Reverse


Just did this for the first time. Here are a few hints that may help others.

1) PB BLASTER is your friend. Remove the exhaust top front heat shield and hit exhaust nuts with PB Blaster as soon as you start the job, or night before.

2) Make sure that you have 12mm closed end wrench with AND without ratchet. Also a 1/2 size 12mm socket if you can find / make. These will help.

3) You don't have to remove the oil filtermag-glass_10x10.gif, but there one bolt that it would be nice for. I did not and did manage to get the job done.

4) Take you time. More of finding the right tool combination for each bolt.

5) Two banjo bolts on the turbo were really on there. Needed to use a mini-acetylene torch to eat up.

6) Have extracting sockets and bits ready just in case there are issues getting bolts / nuts off.

Turbo had quite a bit of end-play, but spun fine. Classic symptoms, blue smoke at start up and from time to time when driving. It was also making a bit of noise at idle.

jeffo2 ort11


Also, should get new copper washers. I did not have I have some micro leaks from time to time but nothing bad.

Dec 15, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

3 Answers

Can't get the alternator out!!


You can remove the fan clutch to add additional space. 1.8 T or V6? On 1.8 T remove the turbo hose. You have 2 types of fan clutches. Usually a big nut on the fan which must be removed by blocking the pulley or holding it and turning the big nut as to tighten it (opposite threads.) Usually seized on a little heat is needed on the nut just being careful not to heat the clutch and damage it. Other model have an 8 mm allen in the back depending on the fan clutch. With this advanced you'll have more space to move the fan a little. If you have to remove the front it's really not as bad as you think. About 1/2 hr it'll be advanced. You don't have to take it all off just advance it without removing the rad hoses or a/c or radiator.

Sep 28, 2008 | 1999 Volkswagen Passat

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