Automatic Door lock is stuck in "lock" position on drivers side,
I have maintained this car better than the manual suggested (3,000 mi. oil changes, fluids, filters, tires, tune-ups, timing belt at 100,000, etc. It is a 5-speed manual. I admit it has been pretty reliable, but it seems to have a lot of little problems none the less. I tried to get into it today and the lock is stuck in the "lock" position, on the drivers side, so I had to un-lock the passenger side and climb over the seats to drive!!!!! It is so humiliating. I'm afraid of the cost if taken to a mechanic, and I'm not sure where to even bring it. When the key is engagaed it does make the usual "clicking" noise, but it does not open the lock. The other doors respond by locking, even though I'm turning to unlock. Is there any thing I can investigate on my own before I have to bring it to someone? Thanks! Stranded woman in NJ
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Re: Automatic Door lock is stuck in "lock" position on...
Spray it in with that door lock lubrication.
You should be able to open it from the driverside insde.
Lubricate the doorlock latch at door style itself as well, no excess. Dripping to be removed! Now after working in that oil. have a few operations of the whole and threat all doors alike.
You need to do this at least once a year. She just stuck in dirt most probably. At that side most dirt enters because you use it the most.
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All doors lock automatically when the vehicle speed reaches 15 MPH (24 km/h).
? All doors unlock automatically when the ignition is placed in the OFF position.
The automatic unlock function can be deactivated or activated. To deactivate or activate the automatic door unlock system, perform the following procedure: 1. Close all doors.
2. Place the ignition switch in the ON position.
Within 20 seconds of performing Step 2, push and hold the power door lock switch to the position (UNLOCK) for more
than 5 seconds.
4. When activated, the hazard indicator will flash twice. When deactivated, the hazard indicator will flash once.
5. The ignition switch must be placed in the OFF and ON position again between each setting change.
When the automatic door unlock system is deactivated, the doors do not unlock when the ignition switch is placed in the OFF position. To unlock the door manually, use the inside lock knob or the power door lock switch (driver's or front passenger's side). NOTE: The automatic door unlock function can be changed using the Vehicle Settings in the vehicle information
The rod from the handles to the lock mechanism could have come off or become bent to the point that it won't work the latch anymore. The prior problems were probably just symptoms of the problem you have now. Will have to take the door panel off and manually trip the latch.
I recommend pulling the door panel off and getting a better look. There are little nylon retainers that slip over the metal rods in the door which connect the door handles, locks, latches etc (usually on the ends of the rods). Quick guess is that the end of the rod is sliding in there but because its still clipped onto the rod, it appears to be all there, in its proper place and working correctly. I'm also guessing that there has been a lot of penetrating oil sprayed into the door in an attempt to free the tight lock mechanisms. In reality, allowing the broken parts to slide into a stuck position more easily. Pop the door pnl off, start wiggling and moving different parts of the lock, latch, handles etc... You may want to ask your wife to help turn the door lock key outside while you're watching things move inside. I'll bet the issue(s) become very clear in no time! Good luck!
Oil is cheap, compared to lubrication related repairs, I suggest that you consider every 2500 miles, as it is a round number (kind of). Manufactures have been extending change intervals, but most cars actually run under severe service, mostly due to shorter runs. You sound like better sceneario, the issue is contamination.
Just did this procedure I got from coloradofans.com forums:
"any type of power/voltage change
seems to trigger this issue
The most common symptom is power
locks fail and only the driver window quits, however that is on the
Steps to fix and it works every time.
door panel off driver's door Disconnect the wiring attached to window
and power lock control unit disconnect battery cables connect
the negative to the positive cable(((NO BATTERY CONNECTED))) This
will act to short residual voltage in the system
5 minutes later place
the key in the ignition and turn to the run position connect the
wiring to the window/lock controller connect the negative cable to
the battery then the positive open drivers side door turn key
to the off position((do not remove yet)) you should get a series of
dings through speakers telling you the key is still in the ignition once
it begins dinging pull the key out and you should hear the door lock
solenoids trigger and the windows should work." - Coloradofans.com forums
You may need to remove your door panels (screws are by the door handle,
arm rest, under door and side of door) and then peel back the weather film on each door to see what could be causing the issues.. rusted wires, loose connection, broken linkages, seized linkages. I'm not sure what to do with your car since each door seems to be having a different issue, but I would check the locking mechanisms..
It sounds to me ( correct me if I'm wrong ) like the door latch on the side vertical edge of the door is in the LOCKED POSITION. In order to unlock it perform the following. First electrically with the LOCK button UNLOCK the locks. Now with one hand hold the OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE IN THEOPEN POSITION, while at the same time FLIPPING OPEN THE LATCH. All Done . Now you can close the door. Hope this helps