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Re: harmonic balancer removal. I have nut out but it...
Most balancers have a very tight fit to the crank. You will need to use a puller to remove it. If purchasing one dosn't seem economical to you, some auto parts stores rent out specialty tools for free.
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Wheel may need balancing, small quick job at garage. As for loud engine noise and vibration......miss firing cylinder, engines mount loose but more like something to do with exhaust manifolds leaking.
If you do one wheel, do them all...balance that is.
Good to check all parts of the steering bushes etc for loose rods.
One more simple check is to look for holes in engine heat shields and sound proofing. ............and check all wheel nuts are tight !
It happened to me, back from brake pad change, drove car home and the vibration really got my attention....I checked everything, except wheel nuts. I couldn't believe it could happen... but the *%$£" mechanic hadn't done up the nuts proper......small things can cause big trouble. Good luck
remove drive belts
undo crank nut if there is one
fit a harmonic balancer remover puller
pull the balancer of
Note take care in the removal as there may be a crank sensor at the balancer
best get a workshop manual for photos on the job
The harmonic balancer on these engines is now press fit onto the crankshaft and requires the use of Tool J-38197 for removal. The torque specification to be used during installation has also been revised. The procedure to be used when replacing the crank sensor is as follows:
Disconnect serpentine belt from crankshaft pulley.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove right front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove right inner fender access cover.
Using 28 mm socket, remove crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt.
Remove crankshaft harmonic balancer using Tool (J-38197).
Remove foreign object deflector (DO NOT use pry bar).
Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
Remove sensor and pedestal from block face.
Remove sensor from pedestal
Loosely install crankshaft sensor on pedestal.
Position sensor with pedestal attached on Tool J-37089.
Position tool on crankshaft.
Install bolts to hold pedestal to block face, torque to (18-26 lb. ft.).
Torque pedestal pinch bolt to (26-44 lbs. in.).
Remove Tool J-37089.
Install foreign object deflector.
Place Tool J-37089 on harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the balancer assembly.
Install balancer on crankshaft.
Apply thread sealer GM #(NNN) NNN-NNNNor equivalent to threads of crankshaft balancer bolt. Torque bolt to + 56 degrees (104 lb. ft. + 56 degrees).
Install inner fender shield.
Install tire and wheel assembly. Torque lug nuts to (104 lb. ft.).
Probably need to replace the dash cluster that contains the odometer mechanism. The speed, or mph is controlled by a cable from transmission to the dash cluster. The odometer or miles put on the car runs off the cable through a series of small gears behind the cluster. There maybe a broken plastic gear or something has falling off the car behind the cluster (like a screw or nut) and has caused a blockage on the small gears.
sounds like its just wheel balance but 2 be sure check your wheel nuts r tight also if you getting shudders under braking u may need front disc rotors skimed also when sitting still turn steering left2right make sure u cant feel any play or clunks
Theres usually a cotter pin that you have to remove from the nut. It goes through the middle of the nut and through the drive axle.
If you removed the cotter pin and the nut still wont come off, spray some WD-40 or penetrating lubricant on it. Give the wd-40 a few minutes to work its way into the threads. Put the ratchet or a breaker bar with socket on the nut and hit the handle of the ratchet with a rubber mallet, or just a regular hammer if you dont have a rubber malet. A breaker bar would be better. Just a quick, hard blow that breaks the nut loose before the axle turns.