Computer reading no voltage

When troubleshooting an ignition "no-spark" issue, it's helpful to first understand how the system works in sequence. The process starts with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor detecting engine rotation and cylinder position. The CKP signal is interpreted by the powertrain control module (PCM) which then sends a signal to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM then drives the ignition coil which is when the high voltage (for spark) is created. From there, the high voltage goes through the ignition coil wire to the center of the distributor cap. Here, the spring-loaded button of the cap touches the center of the spinning rotor and transfers the voltage. The high voltage then jumps from the rotor to whichever pole the rotor is pointed towards at the outer edge of the cap; let's say it's cylinder #1. High voltage then travels through the cylinder #1 ignition wire to the cylinder #1 spark plug where it sparks and ignites the cylinder's air/fuel mixture. Considering these things, if there is no spark from any of the cylinder-specific ignition wires, the issue must be further upstream. Start by unplugging the ignition coil wire where it attaches to the distributor and check for spark; if present, the issue is with the distributor cap or rotor. If not present, the issue is further upstream. ICM and ignition coils are both pretty common failures, but further in-depth diagnosis would need to be performed in order to determine if there is a circuit failure, sensor failure, module failure, or other component failure. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-distributor-rotor-and-cap-by-tim-charlet

How long since a tune-up?
Check for applicable trouble codes, if there are any? Your obd 1, you should be able to check for some codes, if the mil still works.
Check primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, key on. Use a test light to check for voltage.
The spark plugs--plug wires--dist cap and rotor all good? Does the rotor turn when you crank it? If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, have helper crank it, do you see a spark jump? I don't know what testing you have done?
With bypass ignition it's the ignition module that controls spark during cranking. With the coil itself, key on, should be voltage on both sides, if only one side, the coil is faulty. The ground for the coil should pulse, with engine cranking. I'm sure I've left something out? You need to do some testing.

Since you have replaced all of the parts, perhaps the problem is the wires. Check continuity of critical wires. Are you getting power to the computer, ignition module and coil? Check continuity of wires from computer to ignition module and crank sensor. Check for bent pins and pushed back female terminals in connectors.

That would be the ignition coil, the part that creates spark at the spark plug. If you follow the electrical path from the coil wire to the distributor cap, and from there, the spinning rotor just under the distributor cap carries the path from the coil wire at the cap's center to the spark plug wires around the dist. cap, and through the plug wire to the spark plug.
The high voltage causing the spark is created in the ignition coil by the engine computer at the precise right moment signaling an ignition module to cut 12 volts current to the ignition coil. This causes the coil to internally build up high voltage which is passed through the coil to distributor cap wire. The computer knows the precise right moment to initiate spark from engine sensors, primarily the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.

Someone needs to check for voltage at the coil and the distributor.
The pickup coil in the distributor tells the coil when to fire.
If you are getting spark at the coil tower but not at the plugs, check the cap and rotor.

The Honda system uses a coil that mounts inside the dist, right ?
If you can check voltage output at the coil tower with the cap off you can find out if the coil is firing. If it is, then yes the rotor could be the problem. The voltage has to go thru the cap to the center of the rotor then to each plug terminal. The spark can jump thru the rotor and ground thru the dist shaft.

assuming you the coil, plugs, cap, rotor and wires are good. check the cam sensor, If you have 12 volts to the coil using a 12v light tester. The cam sensor responsible for sending info to the computer telling it that the cam is turning, then the computer tell the coil to dispurse the charge/sparks to the distributor as distributor distribute the sparks to each plugs from the rotor of the distributor. Replace the cam sensor, it tend to go bad over period of time.

There are 3 possibilities. 1 the coil. 2 the ignition module. 3 the pick up coil. In my experience the ignition module is the most common cause. It is in the distributor held in with 2 screws. The coil and module can be tested at any parts house. Good Luck

You need a new distributor. You've replaced everything else. A distributor will get up and running again.

I had the same problem recently but replacing the ignition Coil under the distributor (inside) solved the problem. Also replaced the distributor Cap and rotor at the same time.