What are the proper lug nuts to use on my 97 rodeo with 16" wheel
I bought a used '97 Rodeo with 16" steel wheels and chrome (plastic) hub centers and I don't think the lug nuts are the correct ones. With the ones I have they are unable to tighten against the wheel and instead tighten against the hub center. To tighten too tight would risk breaking the wheel centers. It would seem to me that an odd shaped lug nut would be needed to go through each of the lug holes on the center cap that would reach the wheel but also have a shoulder or something to hold the cap down at the same time. Or do I need two lug nuts for each lug hole? Thank you to anyone that can help me. Pictures would certainly help!
Re: What are the proper lug nuts to use on my 97 rodeo...
The lugs should have a flat washer and a spring washer the lug should have a long cylinder shape on one end that is tapered to tighten up the wheel the washers hold the plastic hubs in place you might try a wrecking yard or a dealer for them
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Because the wheels are corroded to the hub, causing it to seize. Leave one nut threaded on just a few turns (so your wheel doesn't go flying), get a big hammer and hit the inside of the tire with a good solid shot. That wheel will break loose pretty quick. Good luck!
Depends if the studs are pressed in or an as built unit. Have a look at what the stud looks like and if it appears to have little grooves in the back side, you can hammer out the other 2 and then replace. I would also look into why the studs are having that much force that they are being sheered off.
It is actually very easy. Lift the vehicle and support it properly remove the 5 lug nuts retaining the wheel. Remove the wheel. If it is a 4 wheel drive remove the spindle nut locking the c.v. axle to the hub. Remove the washer. Push the axle through the splined hub. using a 13 mm or 15mm depending on the hub remove the three bolts reatining the hub assemble to the steering knuckle. assemble in reverse order.
if your talking about the chrome plated hub caps, you can use a 3/4" socket with a short extension to unsrew the black plastic nut covers off turning them counterclockwise until they're loose then pull the wheel coves off. When you screw the plastic nut covers on tighten by hand until they're snug don't over tighten them you can srtip the plastic threads (note: the actual lug steel lug nuts are under the wheel covers make sure you tighten them good )
First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.
1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.
2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.
3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.
Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.
Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic
locking hub assembly from the spindle.
Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
Remove the axle shaft spacer
Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull
cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic
thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic
cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the
adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the
key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads,
look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate
locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch
Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing
adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor
and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque
Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of
the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install
the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut.
WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment
lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate
locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in
motion if the key is damaged.
Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the
locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway.
CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with
the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
Install the axle shaft spacer.
Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the
three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer
Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135
Nm (100 ft lb).
Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm
(0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in
Hello, Are you using the factory wheels? If you are using aftermarket wheels, the wheel center might not be fitting snugly on the hub like it should causing the wheel to move slightly. The bolts aren't the only thing you need to keep the wheel centered. If the wheel starts moving up and down it will eventually break the studs. If you find this information to be correct would you please enter a "fixya" rating. Thanks, Gator241