Question about 1990 Porsche 944

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Bucking, misfiring 944 S2 cabrio after getting wet

Have a 91 944 S2 Cabrio and was running great. During heavy rain water got into the back of the engine compartment near the battery. Car started bucking or misfiring with acceleration sounded like it was not hitting on all cylinders and making a tinny sound. Car dried out and everything was fine but now everytime it rains or there is even dew or cold temps starts doing it again and its getting worse. Noticed there is a part behind the battery in the rear firewall that looks like two round plugs (one going in and one going out) with 2 wires between them that make a U shape. Do not know what this part is and cannot find out anywhere? Do not know if this is the problem but the wires are frayed and corroded. The problem does not appear to be related to the distributor cap or the wires but I canot tell if its electrical, air or fuel related. It does not appear that water got into the air flow sensor either only around the battery and perhaps near the wries I mentioned. When it starts to warm up the problem does get a little better except when going uphill and when accelerating hard over 3500-4000 RPMs. Anyone please help.

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  • jmb12166 Apr 17, 2009

    I checkd the distributor and no moisture. Any idea what the wires are behind the battery. Seems like if I keep the passenger side windshield and hood covered when raining there is no problem so it seems like there is something near the battery compartment that is getting wet?

  • Anonymous Apr 26, 2009

    Mine is with a 95 cavalier, same thing... only when its wet out.

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Commonly it's a problem with water in the distributor or coil packs. Which ever you have. 91 probably a distributor.

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

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daves944
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SOURCE: 91 944 S2 Cabrio misfiring during acceleration

I'll go out and have a look at my car to see if I can figure out what these wires are, post a picture of them if you can. You have to re-size down to 40 kb so get a close-up. If you can't do this, you need to repair the frayed wires regardless, so as they say in the Nike ad, "just do it", but I don't think this is related to your problem.
Sorry about being so adamant about the cap, rotor and wires, I'm not trying to be rude, text talk does not come easily to me. It's just that you really can't see cracked or tracked ignition problems. High voltage has a way of jumping to all the wrong places if it has established a path in the past. Also, when you have an ignition problem, too much is put at risk. If the engine is missing, the computer will see oxygen in the exhaust stream and think it's running lean and then add fuel, this melts the catalytic converter and fouls the O2 sensor as well. If the spark plugs haven't been done for awhile, I would do those as part of the process as well.
This has nothing to do with your "no start" problem, but just something to keep in mind, a friend of mine has a '90 S2 and he had a problem with a "miss" at higher rpm, we scratched are heads over this for about 2 years. The problem was finally traced to broken inner valve springs! Turns out it is a very common problem, especially if you drive the car hard. He was a weekend warrior at our local auto cross. We changed the springs without removing the head, you can do this by bringing each piston to TDC while you plumb air or rope into the plug hole to hold the valves up. It is rather difficult to see the broken inner springs, you have to remove the valve cover obviously, but it is very hard to tell that they're broken because you have to peak through the outer spring. Some people have reported finding pieces of valve seals in the oil as it drains out during an oil change, this is a sure sign the inner spring has come apart. If you have a lot of miles on the car, this may be an issue.
I'd come and give you a hand, but I can throw a rock into the Pacific where I'm at, so I guess this will have to do. :-)

Posted on May 05, 2009

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I'll go out and have a look at my car to see if I can figure out what these wires are, post a picture of them if you can. You have to re-size down to 40 kb so get a close-up. If you can't do this, you need to repair the frayed wires regardless, so as they say in the Nike ad, "just do it", but I don't think this is related to your problem.
Sorry about being so adamant about the cap, rotor and wires, I'm not trying to be rude, text talk does not come easily to me. It's just that you really can't see cracked or tracked ignition problems. High voltage has a way of jumping to all the wrong places if it has established a path in the past. Also, when you have an ignition problem, too much is put at risk. If the engine is missing, the computer will see oxygen in the exhaust stream and think it's running lean and then add fuel, this melts the catalytic converter and fouls the O2 sensor as well. If the spark plugs haven't been done for awhile, I would do those as part of the process as well.
This has nothing to do with your "no start" problem, but just something to keep in mind, a friend of mine has a '90 S2 and he had a problem with a "miss" at higher rpm, we scratched are heads over this for about 2 years. The problem was finally traced to broken inner valve springs! Turns out it is a very common problem, especially if you drive the car hard. He was a weekend warrior at our local auto cross. We changed the springs without removing the head, you can do this by bringing each piston to TDC while you plumb air or rope into the plug hole to hold the valves up. It is rather difficult to see the broken inner springs, you have to remove the valve cover obviously, but it is very hard to tell that they're broken because you have to peak through the outer spring. Some people have reported finding pieces of valve seals in the oil as it drains out during an oil change, this is a sure sign the inner spring has come apart. If you have a lot of miles on the car, this may be an issue.
I'd come and give you a hand, but I can throw a rock into the Pacific where I'm at, so I guess this will have to do. :-)

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