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Re: Hard Clutch and 1st and 2nd Gear Shifting is hard
The clutch bearing is supposed to have a groove on the inside where it slides on the shaft That groove is supposed to have a heavy grease applied to it to prevent the bearing running dry on the collar it slides on.Regardless of your driving style, that grease is intended to remain there for the life of the clutch, (generally every clutch I have ever replaced still had some remaining lube there unless the bearing itself failed from a material defect which caused it to overheat and cause that grease to then run out of the retaining groove) I'm not there and can't see the old parts, but in my opinion the first clutch may have failed partially because of your lack of skill in using a stick shift vehicle but the second failure obviously is not your fault if the information you have posted is correct. Good luck
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With the engine off see if the shift between 1st to 2nd feel,s free if not it could be the cable check the clutch is disengageing all the way it should go into reverse without crunching,other then that it could be a synchro ring worn check that the gearbox has the right oil in it.
There two possibility of breakdown in that part, one is the cable might have loosen up and needs some adjustment in the shifting stick gear base. A local mechanic can adjust it and check why it become loose.
The second is, synchronizer gear failure. That part is inside the transmission, it is made of brass, and the gear teeth might have worn out. To check it, needs to pull down the whole transmission and opening it to check the gears. Replacing that gear is a must!
That gear broke down when somebody forcefully shifting the gear in first without the clutch assistant.
Forcing your car to start at 2nd gear from stop will wear down your clutch assembly, so be very carefull don't over rev the engine.
Hope that helps you.
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As you said your clutch is not working , their two types of problem with clutch . one is when you press the clutch and shift the gear if gear shifting is proper but car not moving forward then it is problem with clutch plate assay, and if gear shifting is hard and not able to shift gear then it can be pressure plate or clutch fluid line . if 1st option is same for your problem then it will cost 100to 150$ or it is 2nd option then it will cost 50to 60$. if any issue please let me know thanks. Yogesh
Either your clutch is getting bad, or you're shifting down too soon, and up too late. Try double clutching. Push in your clutch and push it into neutral. Release the clutch, fan the gas pedal, push the clutch again and shift into 1st. All this does is sychronize the speed of the transmission with the speed of the engine. There were, in the 60's, a lot of cars with the old "three on the tree" that you had to do this every time, and you get pretty good at it after a while.
Check that the OD solenoid on the torque converter is good still. When the R4 wont go into OD you have no more gears than 1st an 2nd. If the OD clutch drum was relaced if it was burnt, that will make a problem also. You have to have OD in order for these babies to work right.
First thing to do,try to pump your clutch before you shift into 1st gear then if you feel makes better, most probably you have problem with your hydraulic clutch system, check the clutch line if there is an evidence of fluid leaking or it could be internal leak.
Second thing to do, check your transmission oil, may be it' s too old or you use a thick oil thats why when cold its hard to shift then when the engine rich the normal temperature(warm) the oil become thin and the shifting will smooth. Remember the very old oil become thicken and the purity is gone and can cause of hard shifting. in this regards i suggest you to change the transmission oil and check the used oil if there is small peace of metals, then you are in big trouble,
STOP Forcing gear change, watch the Engine RPMs and shift accordingly, HOMBRE's are as good as the operator's. Hombre's have dash shift indicators which illuminate when it's time to 'shift' and not before, This has nothing to do with gear oil either. If you've drained it, you best fill it immediately and make sure it's ample level. The heat these gears sustain in is inceredible, cooling lubricant is essential. Here's a tip, while engine is OFF, ignition key is engaged, dash is illuminated, depress clutch peddle, keep it depressed and walk through all gears with gear shift, shifting should be smooth and unpeded, including reverse. If resistance is experienced at one or more gears, gear alignment is off as a result of inproper gear shifting while driving. Continue to drive vehicle just shift slower until clutch needs replacement then do an entire drive shaft upgrade. It worth it, it's great truck.