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86 ford pickup ignition switch wiring. what each wire is

Replacing switch with generic ignition mounted in dash. Don't know which wire is what. Anyone know the color code for this switch?

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  • Herman Duchmann Apr 17, 2009

    the ford harness has 2 yellow 10ga. wire that are hot.1-10ga. grey w/yellow stripe. 1 black w/green stripe, 10ga. 1 brown 10ga. w/pink stripe. 1 red w/green stripe 10ga. 1 red w/blue stripe 18ga. and1 purploe w/white stripe 18ga.

  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    I don't have the diagram so I can't tell you where those wires feed from or to... from what you said, they may be using two hot wires...one to power starter/ignition, the other for accessory side. Most of my manuals were stolen and most of the time I need to work from memory...being mostly a chevy and jeep guy, I can give you the basics but can't give any specifics...(with fords and jeep, the manuals used to "lie" a lot anyhow ....1/2 year changes etc)Sorry I can't go too much further but I hope some of this will give you some ideas, since what you are attempting to make a non-stock change in the first place.

  • Richard Scordino May 11, 2010

    You will be using primarily three wires, plus an accessory wire...The heavy wire that reads 12v at all times is the main feed wire. you will find one wire that when touched to the heavy wire, it will turn the starter...that wire goes on the start side of the switch.(only connects when key is fully turned) Another wire when touched to the heavy wire will turn on accessories and put 12v at the ignition coil or ignition module. This should go to the run side of the switch. One other wire will power the radio etc but will put no power to ignition system...that one goes to accessory side of the switch. any other wires will need to be traced to determine what they are for.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: f-150 ford pickup ignition switch -

Let's hope with a Supercab you have a tilt steering wheel.If so, just unhook the negative battery cable, line your wheels up straight, leave it in park, and turn the key on. On the underside of the housing the key and lock cylinder is in, above the hazard switch, is a very small hole with a locking pin inside. Using a small punch, or whatever works for you, simply push the pin in as you pull the lock cylinder out, sort of twisting and rotating the cylinder as you pull. A non-tilting column is a little harder, but it's not difficult, just take your time and think about what you're doing. First you need to remove the steering wheel, so make sure you mark the wheel and column in a couple places so it's easy to line up later. On the back side of the wheel are two screws that hold the front padding with the horn in it. Remove it, being careful of the wires, and disconnect. With cruise control, when you disconnect the wiring in there, you need to squeeze the ground wire terminal clip carefully but firmly (it's sort of like a "J" clip), and pull the wire out of the hole in the wheel. DON'T just pull it out, squeeze, it's spring loaded. Then remove the switch for the horn and the nut holding the wheel on. Use a puller on the steering wheel, but not one they call a "knock off", because it's pretty easy to screw things up if you go hammerin' on the wheel or the column shaft. Take your time. Then you'll find the little hole with the retaining pin near the base of the lock cylinder inside the column, remove it the same way. Remember, in park with key on. Hope this helps you out. If you happen to be referring to the actual "ignition switch", located inside the steering column (which most people don't even know actually exists), or you don't have the key and that's why you're doing this, you'll have to let me know, and I'll try to walk you through those procedures at a later date.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 86 dodge d-100 pickup wiring

90a6190.jpgHope this helps.

Posted on May 03, 2009

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1 Answer

Break and battery light stays on all the time


sold all over earth, what country> we cant guess this....
don't break the brakes....!!!
my guess, you meant the
brake lamps are on keys in pocket. and the battery lamp is dash(charge) glows, keys in pocket. right?
and battery cable kills all this illegal states above. sure.

86 nissan PU.
720 PU>? Datsun>?
or D21 Nissan ( 1986 Dat-SUNS became NISSANS. in USA)
Model years 1986.5 (second half) and later were called Nissan Hardbody Trucks, chassis code D21.

D21 are called HARD BODY trucks. mid year changes.
so???? which is yours.

as you might not ,know , the models are wired diffrent by different exact models and country.
long ago , i had the 86 with the VG30 V6...

so i will roll the dice and answer for
D21
ok?

things off stay on, 101
bad wiring, hacked in wiring, radios,alarms and other things.
all can cause this..... its old and is common on old cars.
but if wiring is not hacked, (id see that in 10seconds in person)
no hacks.
gas engine car not diesel.
USA 86 body
brakes
Im looking now at the schematic and this car has a hot at all times
brake lamp switch. (foot pedal switch)
SO only a bad switch can cause this.... period
now the dash charge (battery ) light stuck on.


my online source ,has the alternator system missing.
so can not comment.
the lamp gets its power from the key switch
if the key switch fails , all warning lanps glow not just the
charge.(battery)
so its not that
my best guess is wiring errors, that put power the the cluster
key off. id bet that is it .

wiring errors to the ignition output is side, key switched power is failing.




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1 Answer

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2

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Read more: How do I Replace the Stop Light Switch in a 1986 Ford Pickup? ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7655525_do-switch-1986-ford-pickup.html#ixzz21tSRtoDU


Unbolt the stop light switch from the stop light switch mounting bracket using the box wrench set. Take the old switch down by hand and place the new switch on the bracket.
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Bolt the new stop light switch to the bracket with the socket set. Plug the brake light wiring harness into the Ford pickup's new stop light switch by hand.

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These generic instructions (with an Illustration from Ford) were the best I could find.

Testing and replacing an ignition switch:

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The ignition switch is usually mounted to the steering column and is operated by a linkage rod.
NOTE
On column-mounted ignition switches, don't confuse the switch with the lock cylinder and keys. The ignition switch is not normally visible.

(See illustration below)

On some vehicles, the steering column support has to be removed and the column lowered to find the ignition switch. On others, the switch is accessible under the dash.
The ignition switch is operated by the key switch. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.

To replace the switch:

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* Attach the witing harness.



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