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Re: replacing a front wheel bearing
Here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.
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Removal & Installation
Apply the brakes and hold in place.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
Release the brakes.
Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
Remove the tie rod heat shield.
Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
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Your PT Cruiser does not have a rear axle per se. It has individual spindles on the left and right side which have a wheel bearing / hub assembly attached to them. The wheel bearing assembly is what your rim / tire bolts on to. Bending a spindle is very hard to do, unless you hit a curb or pothole VERY hard. It does happen, but unlikely. Wheel bearings / hubs do go bad which can cause the wheel to camber at an angle producing drag, alignment problems, brake problems and uneven / unusual tire wear. If it breaks completely, the wheel can even come off while driving.
I could not find a listing on the spindle, but a wheel bearing runs around $50-$70 per side. Replacing one can be done at home, but requires a very large socket (most are 31mm) and at least a 1/2" breaker bar or impact wrench to remove the spindle nut. Also 1/2" torque wrench to re-install.
Reply for direction on removal / installation if you intend to do the work yourself. A shop will charge you in the $200 range to do it including the part, only takes about an hour labor. If spindle is indeed bent, you will be looking at an added amount for the part, I would say one would cost in the $200 range, as they are a precision tempered steel part......Mike
its actually pretty easy if you have the basic tools needed and a little mechanical knowledge, because i dont think you can buy just the bearing at a auto parts store. they sell you the whole hub assembly which is great for the DIYer.
lift the car off the ground and block it from rolling and place a jack stand under it so it cant fall on anyone.
vehicles are equipped with sealed hub and bearing assemblies. The hub
and bearing assemblies are non-serviceable. If the assembly is damaged,
the complete unit must be replaced.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
DO NOT allow the caliper to hang unsupported from the brake hose.
Front wheelHalfshaft nut and washerCaliper from the steering knuckle and support it aside
Brake rotorAnti-lock Brake System (ABS) connector, if equipped3 hub/bearing assembly boltsHalfshaft from the hub/bearing assemblyHub/bearing assembly
Fig. Exploded view of the front hub/bearing assembly
To install: Install or connect the following:
Hub/bearing assembly onto the halfshaft, making sure the splines engage smoothlyHub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) connector, if equippedBrake rotorCaliper onto the steering knuckle. Torque the bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (51 Nm).Halfshaft nut. Torque the hub nut to 284 ft. lbs. (385 Nm) on nuts colored black, or 173 ft. lbs. (235 Nm) on gray colored nuts.Front wheel. Torque the nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
I had similar problem with my 03 trailblazer. It had a low dull hum in the front end with a little vibration being felt in gas pedal. Noise increased over a couple weeks and was louder turning to the left and quiter turning to right. A GM mechanic friend of mine replaced the front right hub and took care of the problem. Hub was about $160 at Autozone.
HI, For replace the front wheel bearing. on a toyota corolla 03
You need a hydrualic bench.
Because they goin pressed.
I recomend go to a repair shop, is not easy.
It's take about 2 hour to do. with the right tools.