I have been trying to find out the correct way to get the window to work with the cables being put back onto the crank. Currently the window is held in the up position. One cable seems to have come loose at the botton of the door also. I think once the cables are in the correct postion then the window will work. This is for a 1988 pathfinder
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Does it crank ok? If it cranks ok, I doubt it's your battery? Did you try jumper cables? Be careful and hook them up right, if you try cables. If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check correct fuel pressure.
Sounds like you need a new speedo cable .... first step is to get a repair manual. If you can remove the cable from the back of the speedo and have someone hold it while you are driving, if you apply light pressure to hold the cable in solidly, and then try to stop the cable from spinning, but not so much that you snap the cable yourself. The cable should spin while the car is moving forward. Once you replace the speedo cable the speedo and odometer should work again, if not it might be the speedo head, which spins the cable. Try to get a manual. Haynes is OK but the factory Honda manual might actually be the most accurate. If I understood this correctly you should be good to go but if you need further assistance feel free to holler back again.If the cable is OK but the speedo still doesn't work it is most likely the speedo guts ... used ones should be available for about $100 or so. The cable should solve your problem hopefully, making further work unnecessary.
I fixed my rear quarter panel window (driver's side) at no cost. I removed the assembly/window and thought I would have to replace the assembly and motor. Once I saw the price I began to investigte the problem with the original part. I removed the window from the assembly. (did not want to break it) I found that the cable was binding on the main pulley connected to the motor. I removed the three screws that held the pulley/motor housing. I removed the motor and plugged it back into the power supply and it worked. I realigned the cable and reinstalled the housing and motor. I plugged it into the power supply and it ran, but noticed that the cable was somewhat loose causing the cable to bind on the main pulley. If I kept tension on the cable it seemed to operate correctly. To keep tension on the cable, I put a plastic tie strap around the two cable parts just above the bottom cable guide (about 1 1/2 inch above cable guide) - pulling the strap until there was sufficient tension on the cable (not real tight). The strap kept tension the cable and the tension kept the cable from coming off the pulley when the widow operated. I bolted the window back on (do not over tighted the bolts or the window may break). Reinstalled everythng - checked the window alignment with the front window - tested the operation and it worked like new. I put everything back together and was able to fix my non working window for the price of a plastic tie and a couple of hours of figuring out the problem. I think I could do the whole process in less than an hour now. I would check out this solution before spending 175 for a new motor or 250 for a new assembly. CountryRidgeBBQ@aol.com
Items to check out Battery and battery cables (Load test battery and make sure cables are clean and tight especially the B+ cable off the starter).
Listen to the cranking speed of the starter. Does it sound normal or slow? Depending on what you hear you may want to do a starter current draw test or have a shop do it for you.
If all of the above are a-ok then move onto fuel and ignition checks.
When you put the key into the ignition and turn it to on position do you hear the fuel pump buzz?
No buzzing sound ... you could have either a bad fuel
pump or relay. Either way the vehicle is going to a shop for further diagnosis and repair.
Ignition check WET WIRES will usually give you a misfire unless the coil pack they are attached to was submerged in water. Then you may have major engine problems like a hydro locked engine.
Dry off or replace wires and look over coil, totally saturated may be worth replacing.
Pull off a spark plug attach it to its wire and ground its electrode . Crank engine and look for spark.
No spark! Now check plug wires and coil. How use shop manual for correct testing procedure .
If no spark is found coming from the coil then check B+ coming from battery to coil and ignition module.
Lastly not likely but ignition switch should not be left out of the equation. Your gonna need the shop manual for that. good luck
These cars have a window regulator that is made with a cable and a plastic wheel that the cable rolls around. Once it wears out you need to replace the whole regulator, it comes with new motor. Look on ebay, cheapest way to buy a new one. You can take off door panel and push window back up and wedge or vise grip so it wont fall back down.
From your post, it seems that you may have only cleaned the outside of the terminals. The engine was cranking... this tells me that 'though cleaning the terminals is a good maintenence item, you did not have a problem there. Remove the cables and clean the inside of the wire terminals and the battery contacts. This will put you back where it would crank, but not start. (make sure the battery is fully charged while you are there) After you can crank the engine, check for spark at plug wires, fuel supply etc. Problems there will begin to tell you where to proceed! Good luck!