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How to install new trunk struts

How to install trunk struts

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Posted on May 03, 2009


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HI, I have got the new Azera trunk lift support cylinders. I do not know how to replace the old lifts with new ones. please send the steps if anyone know how to do this.

These gas filled struts have a "U" shaped clip on both ends of the strut. Using a small flat tip screwdriver, pop these clips outward (not all the way out). Lifting the trunk lid slightly will allow you to remove these struts and install the new ones.

Sep 09, 2011 | Hyundai Azera Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where are the top nuts located for the rear strut in an 04 ford taurus? And if you get a ready mount is a spring compressor necessary for removal or installation?

Let's look in the trunk for the nuts

Why would you buy new springs?

Take the struts to a garage,stand there
while they swap out the struts

Feb 09, 2011 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

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VickiMy trunk does not stay open, does it need a fuse?

Nice Car...the trunk is supported by 2 rod/struts one on each side, attached to the rear car body, and the trunk...these struts wear out and the symptom is the trunk will not stay up by itself...these rod/struts are available at most Auto Parts Stores...or definitely on the internet...the best manufacturer if replacement hood and trunk struts is "Mighty Arm" available on the internet...prices vary by car make and model...pretty easy to change...a good Auto Parts person might help demonstrate the easy switch out...:)

Dec 10, 2010 | 1999 Chrysler Concorde

2 Answers

How do you install trunk struts on a 1998 volvo S70? The problem is with the end behind the seat?

My procedure (after spending 2 hours finding nothing but dead ends and 20 minutes after I figured out the procedure...). Also, found that having a second person is key to making things go smoother!
1. Purchase a pair of quality struts with specifications for trunks with or without a spoiler on it. Trunks with a spoiler requires a heavier, beefier strut. Save yourself a headache and replace both struts while you are at it, no need to face this task 6 months later. Fluid leaking out of struts are a sure indication that you need new ones!
2. Remove and save the old strut to compare it to the new struts you purchased. There are two accesses you'll need to position yourself in: 1. from the trunk and 2. from the back seat into a tight wheel well cavity that you can hardly get your hand into.
3. From the back seat, pull down the backrest side cushion near the door on each side to access the cavity that has the rod end with the plastic clip inside it. The cushion pulls out when grabbing the top and pulling towards you. No need to manhandle this cushion and you only want to pull the top off and slant it sideways in order to get your hand inside this small cavity through the access hole.
4. Note that the plastic 'clip' end of the strut is attached to a permanent welded pin located inside the cavity. Using flat head screw driver, pry plastic clip off of welded pin inside the cavity.
5. On trunk side of the strut, use a small flathead screw driver and insert under retaining clip to release the old strut from the permanent bulbous pin welded to the body. Note: You can check out your new strut and you'll see how the clip needs to be 'pried' off slightly to open the aperture where the bulbous/rounded pin head goes into and it would snap on.
6. Now compare your old and new struts. Look closely at the two ends and compare the sizes. Particularly compare the 'plastic' "C" end clip at the end of the strut rod that has to 'snap' over the pin that is welded inside the cavity. Getting the plastic "C" end clip off is a ...'snap' but getting this back on and 'snap' in place is a potential project.
7. For me, after comparing the old and the new ends, I had to file down the new plastic "C" end clip so it would look almost identical in size to the original one I took off and would be able to 'snap' back on over the welded clip inside the cavity. The other side of the strut that is installed from the trunk was just fine so I didn't have to do anything there.
8. When trying to 'snap' the "C" end clip over the pin inside the cavity, I found that I couldn't get enough downward pressure on it to 'snap' it in place. So, I took someone's suggestion on the web to loop a 3/8" small rope over the end of the clip inside the cavity, draped the two ends of the rope outside the opening to the cavity and exerted 'downward' pressure on the rope pulling the clip against the pin which forced the "C" clip to 'snap' into place over the welded pin!! Slight filing (not too much) will get the end just right to snap over the pin and it's plastic which files off in seconds. Little at a time or else you find you just destroyed your strut! Note: prior to the rope trick, I tried every tool known to man to snap this clip in place inside the small cavity!!! For my big hands, there is just not enough room to get your hand in there to move around, never mind getting a tool in there as well! Once you look at this ridiculous setup, you'll know exactly what I mean!
9. Now the easy part. From the trunk, prepare the other end of the strut to install over the bulbous end of the permanent pin welded to the body by prying the retaining clip as previously mentioned. You'll see as you pry off the clip (but do NOT remove it completely) the opening on this end of the strut will permit it to slide easily over the pin. Best to have one person there to move the trunk up or down to align the pin to the end of the strut to line it up and slide it on.
10. Bingo - slide it on, make sure you press the retaining clip back in place so it grabs the bulbous end of the pin and you're done! Like I said I spent 2 hours fiddling about and 20 minutes installing both struts once I got the filing of the end and rope trick down!
Key to this project: compare the ends you are trying to snap and slide on (adjust/shave if necessary), get access from the back seat by pulling back the side backrest cushion to access the cavity and the old 'rope' trick to get downward pressure to 'snap' on the darn "C" clip inside the cavity!!
Good luck - you can do it with only a screwdriver and piece of rope!

Nov 01, 2010 | 1998 Volvo S70

1 Answer

How to install rear struts on a 1988 vw cabriolet

From inside the trunk area, at the top of the wheel well, there is a back cover to remove, under the cover you'll find a 17mm nut, remove the nut and cupped washer, there should be 1 more 17mm nut to remove. Then from under the car, remove the thru bolt and nut. The strut should come out. take the old strut out and put the new one in.

Apr 27, 2010 | 1988 Volkswagen Cabriolet

1 Answer

How do you install rear struts on a 97 dodge avenger

you will need to set the car on jack stands, then remove the tires, then remove the bottom strut mount bolts, pop the trunk, and the top mount bolts should be easily accessible remove them also, then you will need strut spring compressors, compress spring, remove top retaining nut, then remove old strut install new strut tighten retaining nut release springs and install back on vehicle.

Mar 15, 2010 | 1997 Dodge Avenger

1 Answer

I need to install my rear struts I just purchased

remove wheel, remove 2 bolts behind hub then 3 bolts in trunk above strut. there is one little bolt holding the flex hose.

May 20, 2009 | 1992 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

Removing and installing trunk struts in chevy venture 2003

The trunk lift supports (struts) come fully extended. Install one end of the strut and then push up or open the trunk until the other end of the strut lines up with the ball stud and snap it on. If you cannot open the trunk far enough to line up the ball stud then you have gotten the wrong struts. Hope this helps.

Mar 13, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Venture Passanger

2 Answers

Installing new trunk suppports for 2003 , LS430 Lexus

Prop up the trunk and unbolt them, should be easy to do

Feb 27, 2009 | 2003 Lexus LS 430

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