How do you install trunk struts on a 1998 volvo S70? The problem is with the end behind the seat?
My procedure (after spending 2 hours finding nothing but dead ends and 20 minutes after I figured out the procedure...). Also, found that having a second person is key to making things go smoother!
1. Purchase a pair of quality struts with specifications for trunks with or without a spoiler on it. Trunks with a spoiler requires a heavier, beefier strut. Save yourself a headache and replace both struts while you are at it, no need to face this task 6 months later. Fluid leaking out of struts are a sure indication that you need new ones!
2. Remove and save the old strut to compare it to the new struts you purchased. There are two accesses you'll need to position yourself in: 1. from the trunk and 2. from the back seat into a tight wheel well cavity that you can hardly get your hand into.
3. From the back seat, pull down the backrest side cushion near the door on each side to access the cavity that has the rod end with the plastic clip inside it. The cushion pulls out when grabbing the top and pulling towards you. No need to manhandle this cushion and you only want to pull the top off and slant it sideways in order to get your hand inside this small cavity through the access hole.
4. Note that the plastic 'clip' end of the strut is attached to a permanent welded pin located inside the cavity. Using flat head screw driver, pry plastic clip off of welded pin inside the cavity.
5. On trunk side of the strut, use a small flathead screw driver and insert under retaining clip to release the old strut from the permanent bulbous pin welded to the body. Note: You can check out your new strut and you'll see how the clip needs to be 'pried' off slightly to open the aperture where the bulbous/rounded pin head goes into and it would snap on.
6. Now compare your old and new struts. Look closely at the two ends and compare the sizes. Particularly compare the 'plastic' "C" end clip at the end of the strut rod that has to 'snap' over the pin that is welded inside the cavity. Getting the plastic "C" end clip off is a ...'snap' but getting this back on and 'snap' in place is a potential project.
7. For me, after comparing the old and the new ends, I had to file down the new plastic "C" end clip so it would look almost identical in size to the original one I took off and would be able to 'snap' back on over the welded clip inside the cavity. The other side of the strut that is installed from the trunk was just fine so I didn't have to do anything there.
8. When trying to 'snap' the "C" end clip over the pin inside the cavity, I found that I couldn't get enough downward pressure on it to 'snap' it in place. So, I took someone's suggestion on the web to loop a 3/8" small rope over the end of the clip inside the cavity, draped the two ends of the rope outside the opening to the cavity and exerted 'downward' pressure on the rope pulling the clip against the pin which forced the "C" clip to 'snap' into place over the welded pin!! Slight filing (not too much) will get the end just right to snap over the pin and it's plastic which files off in seconds. Little at a time or else you find you just destroyed your strut! Note: prior to the rope trick, I tried every tool known to man to snap this clip in place inside the small cavity!!! For my big hands, there is just not enough room to get your hand in there to move around, never mind getting a tool in there as well! Once you look at this ridiculous setup, you'll know exactly what I mean!
9. Now the easy part. From the trunk, prepare the other end of the strut to install over the bulbous end of the permanent pin welded to the body by prying the retaining clip as previously mentioned. You'll see as you pry off the clip (but do NOT remove it completely) the opening on this end of the strut will permit it to slide easily over the pin. Best to have one person there to move the trunk up or down to align the pin to the end of the strut to line it up and slide it on.
10. Bingo - slide it on, make sure you press the retaining clip back in place so it grabs the bulbous end of the pin and you're done! Like I said I spent 2 hours fiddling about and 20 minutes installing both struts once I got the filing of the end and rope trick down!
Key to this project: compare the ends you are trying to snap and slide on (adjust/shave if necessary), get access from the back seat by pulling back the side backrest cushion to access the cavity and the old 'rope' trick to get downward pressure to 'snap' on the darn "C" clip inside the cavity!!
Good luck - you can do it with only a screwdriver and piece of rope!
Nov 01, 2010 |
1998 Volvo S70