Question about 1995 Chevrolet K1500
When I have the truck running the Voltage Reads 13.9 volts with the headlights on and the blower motor on. But when I put the truck into gear the voltage drops down to just above 12 volts and stays there, and if i turn off the headlights or the blower the voltage only rises up a little bit. This problem just started happening out of nowhere. I have replaced the alternator, battery, ground wires (cleaned the surfaces to bare metal), power cables. The battery and alternator have been tested and are both in excellent condition. I'm getting frustrated with this problem! What would be causing this?
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the battery, disconnect the red wire on the alternator stud, disconnect the (2) wire connector on the alternator. Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition to the run position, check both red wires and the brown at the alternator and make sure there is voltage on all wires.
Per your description, I believe you will not have voltage on one or both of the large red wires.
Let me know.
Posted on May 09, 2009
If the condition is present for short times only it will not affect
anything. It's possible that the crank pulley is glazed and slipping
slightly on a hard pull (everything else depends upon that pulley to be
properly driven) You can't really duplicate that on a static test.
It's also possible that the battery was a bit low when you bought it
and needs to have the charge level topped off with an external charger.
Otherwise, the only option I can think of offhand would be to obtain an
alternator designed for heavy duty service (police version etc) which
may be able to deal with the demand.
As your vehicle gets older, resistance in all circuits increases, making little difference during normal operation but can also influence how your vehicle charges. Cleaning / adding additional ground points can help with this.
If it seems that I'm jumping around a bit, I am, but since the charging system is pretty much operational except at that one point, I'm trying to give you some ideas that either in combination, or one alone will be of some help to you.
Posted on May 25, 2009
On some of the older style GM's you can take that brown wire and cut it and take the end leading from the alternator and hook it directly to the hot terminal on the alternator and just leave it hooked up and it will work. But I have ran into the occasional problem where leaving it hooked up will drain the battery when the vehicle isn't running. Hope this helps..
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
Testimonial: "I fixed the problem - the terminal at the brown wire was corroded - after cleaning and recrimping - everything works - thanks for the heads up"
13.5 is what it should be at all times not 14.5 so the regulator is not functioning correctly . Reversing the probes on the volt meter will tell you the doide is bad if the reading is showing the same results as properly connected
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 26, 2016 | 2003 Isuzu Rodeo
Dec 10, 2013 | 1995 Nissan Pickup
Jun 29, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet K1500
Jan 22, 2011 | 1993 Chevrolet C1500
Aug 12, 2010 | 2008 Toyota Camry
May 26, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500
Feb 09, 2010 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks
Dec 10, 2009 | 1986 Chrysler Fifth Avenue
Dec 06, 2009 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks
170 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: