Question about 1992 Ford Explorer

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92 ford explorer is making loud noise under neath i change the muffler but still making noise, took it to cole mufflers and they said that i needed a cross bar or something like that where the front tires are. how can i fix this problem?

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  • Jeff Adkisson
    Jeff Adkisson May 11, 2010

    maybe a sway bar??



6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: transfer case noise

is your universal joints out and that is where its rubbing?
running different size tires on a all wheel drive is a big mistake it can burn out the transfercase

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Ford Explorer AWD Problem

awd and 4wd vehicles can't have 2 different size tires run or it will damage the transfer case,but you should be able to get a new bar i beleive what your talking about is called a torsion bar

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 ford explorer AWD front drive shaft problem...

Try getting a free quote from several reputable shops before deciding to throw down your money on something your not certain of. Im not dissing your mechanic by any means, it doesnt cost anything to get another opinion or two or three....Its your money!

Posted on Feb 27, 2009

  • 4369 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer timing problem

ISSUE: A "knocking" noise at start up for up to 2 minutes from the left hand front chain cassette area may occur on some vehicles. After engine shutdown, the tensioner oil supply gallery empties. The noise may be due to air entering the left hand tensioner when the engine is restarted.
ACTION: Replace the left hand camshaft tensioner with a revised Tensioner Kit. Refer to the Instruction Sheet within the Tensioner Kit for service procedure details.
PART NUMBER PART NAME XU2Z-6K254-AA Tensioner Kit - Left Side XU3Z-6K254-BA Tensioner Kit - Right Side

SECTION 303-01B: Engine — 4.0L SOHC 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Timing Drive Components —LH Hydraulic Chain Tensioner Removal and Installation

  1. Remove the upper intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold—Upper in this section.
Intake Manifold —Upper Removal
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
  1. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube (9B659); refer to Section 303-12 .
  1. Remove the bolts and the accelerator control splash shield.
  1. Remove the accelerator cable (9A758) and speed control actuator cable (9A825).
    1. Pull up on speed control actuator cable to remove.
    1. Rotate the throttle body cam and remove the accelerator cable from the cam.
  1. Remove the screws, the accelerator cable and speed control actuator cable.
  1. Disconnect the RH upper intake manifold vacuum connection.
  1. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector.
  1. Disconnect the TP sensor electrical connector.
  1. Disconnect the engine vacuum regulator (EVR) and the variable induction system (VIS) solenoid electrical connections.
  1. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose (6853).
  1. Disconnect the power brake booster vacuum line.
  1. Remove the 12 bolts.
  1. NOTE: Inspect the O-rings and replace as necessary.
    Disconnect the LH fuel vapor management valve (VMV) hose.
  1. NOTE: Inspect the O-rings and replace as necessary.
    Disconnect the RH VMV hose and remove the upper intake manifold.
  1. Remove the thermostat housing. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .
  1. Remove the LH camshaft tensioner.
    • If using a new washer, tighten to 44 Nm (32 lb-ft).
    • If using the old washer, tighten to 67 Nm (49 lb-ft).
  1. Remove the pipe plug, and the oil volume reduction plug.
  1. NOTE: Be sure to install the new oil volume reduction plug supplied with the hydraulic chain tensioner.
    To install, reverse the removal procedure.
please rate as fixed if this helps you

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: My 04 ford explorer is making a loud humming noise

wheel bearings are worn out on the front, i had the same problem in my 2004 ford explorer just recently.

Posted on May 30, 2009

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You did not mention the muffler which is the most important one for keeping the noise down. The cat,converter's primary function is pollution control, not noise and if you had a bad manifold you would have a racket even when you were idling. Was the muffler changed ? If not then that was probably the problem in the first place.

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if it is bogging down on power, it may be a bad converter doing this. sometimes a muffler will break down on the inside. so if the converter is good you may have to remove muffler and start car. to see if thats the problem. good-day ! if car runs normal and it does not need a tuneup, then I would say its a bad muffler. just check the entire exhaust system.

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I have a 1997 chevy cavalier 2.2L 4Cylnder, and it is making a radling noise, we thought it was the water pump so we replaced it and found out that wasn't the problem so I looked closer, I went under neath...

Sounds are one of the hardest things to figure out without hearing them. Check to see if the exhaust system is hanging lower than it should, if it is it maybe hitting something as you drive and has probably broken a hanger which a muffler shop can fix for you. Also you can check to see if it is an exhaust leak by cupping your hand making a seal over the tailpipe with the vehicle running. Do this check right after the car has been started, be careful not to hold the pipe or burn yourself sometimes a rag in your hand can be helpful. If there is pressure against your hand your exhaust should not have any leaks on the other hand if there is a leak the noise you hear should change and there maybe suction on your hand. Suction=Leak Pressure blowing away from the tailpipe=no Leaks

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could be open at the top of the muffler .......or may be a flange connection between the headers and the intermediate pipe or the connection along the seam or to the muffler

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Loud muffler noise up front of vehical.what is

If the noise sounds like your muffler, but isn't coming from the area of your muffler, then you have an exhaust leak upstream from the muffler.

From the front of your muffler, follow the tubing forward to the catalytic converter, then forward to the engine exhaust manifold.

If you start with the car sitting for a few hours to make sure it's cold, you can use your hand to feel for blowing leaks while the engine is running, but chances are you'll be able to hear it. be careful of the catalytic converter itself, as it heats up fast, so check that first.

Once you've found the leak, the fix depends on the emissions laws in your state. If you have none, and the leak is in the middle of the pipe, you can buy pipe patchers (metal preferred) through auto parts stores or catalogs/websites. If you have strict emissions laws, or the leak is at the junction of the catalytic converter and pipe, you'll need to replace the failing part.

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As to hitting the muffler with a hammer, if it's that plugged, your not going to make things any better.

Does the engine run? If it does, exhaust has to be coming out from somewhere. If it doesn't , then your right in trying to find whats plugged, but if you pop a hole in the muffler and allows the engine to run, you risk asphixiation of you or the vehicles occupants driving the vehicle around.

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