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Message Center Configuration Oil Life Reset - Message Center Cluster
NOTE: The oil life calculation is set at a maximum of approximately 8,000 km (5,000 miles) or 180 days
Press and release the SETUP button until the message center displays PRESS RESET TO BEGIN SYSTEM CHECK.
Press and release the RESET button until the message center displays HOLD RESET IF NEW OIL.
Press and hold the RESET button for 2 seconds and release to reset the oil life to 100%.
The message center displays SETUP MENU HOLD RESET.
Oil Life Reset - Base Instrument Cluster
NOTE: The oil life calculation is set at a maximum of approximately 8,000 km (5,000 miles) or 180 days.
Place the ignition in the RUN position with the engine off (KOEO).
Press and release the TRIP/RESET button until SETUP MENU HOLD RESET is displayed.
Press and hold the TRIP/RESET button until SYSTEM CHECK is displayed.
Release the TRIP/RESET button.
Press and release the TRIP/RESET button to scroll through the system check menu items until HOLD RESET IF NEW OIL is displayed.
Press and hold the TRIP/RESET button until OIL LIFE SET TO 100% is displayed.
Release the TRIP/RESET button. The oil life is now reset.
Oil Life Start Value - Message Center Cluster
NOTE: The oil life start value is used to reset the oil life value back to the maximum of approximately 8,000 km (5,000 miles) if the value was previously changed or to lower the value from the maximum (8,000 km To reset the oil monitoring system to 100% after each oil change [approximately 5,000 miles (8,000 km) or 180 days] perform the following:
Enter SYSTEM CHECK to display "OIL XXX% OIL LIFE OK".
Press RESET control to display "HOLD RESET IF NEW OIL".
Press and hold RESET control for more than 2 seconds. Oil life is set to 100% and "OIL CHANGE SET TO 100%" is displayed
There are many factors that go into a cars value. You best bet to get the best ball park figure is to google search NADA blue book or Kelly Blue Book. These companies specialize in determining the value of vehicles and are the industry standard when it comes to car value.
Once you are on there site you will enter several key important pieces of information like engine size, 2 door or 4 door, Royal or brougham, sunroof, what power option, Etc. and then give you the approximate values.
Off the top of my head you could expect any where from $1000 to $2500 depending on the condition. New brake, tires, or other repairs make no difference on the value of the car. Those are things that needed to be done although they are good selling points.
The first thing you should do is go to your local auto parts dealership that offers free computer diagnostics. They'll be able to read and interpret any codes your computer is posting, and that will pinpoint any engine or transmission problems.
Hopefully you simply need a transmission flush. If your transmission fluid is full of garbage, it could certainly cause the jerking you experienced. However, in case it turns out to be more serious, I would recommend limiting how much you drive the vehicle until you've gotten the problem identified.
If it turns out to be your transmission, compare repairing it to your car's Kelly Blue Book value and see if you think the investment is personally worth it. A new transmission will cost you approximately $2200 - $2800.
Keep in mind that trading in a vehicle with serious transmission problems will get you a significantly less trade-in value. That said, your car is nine years old. The choice is up to you.
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then
start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:
Inspect for the following conditions:
An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order
to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
- The secondary ignition wires or coils
- Any solenoids
- Any relays
- Any motors
A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set
at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream
of the MAF sensor.
A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF
sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase
should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the
If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction
system or the exhaust system.
The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted
MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor
at key ON.
When the engine is running the MAP sensor
value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the
calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor
display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF,
103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease
by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude.
A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP
sensor can cause this DTC to set.
Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
To reset the oil monitoring system to 100% after each oil change
(approximately 7,500 miles [12,000 km] or six months) perform the
1. Press and release the
SELECT/RESET button to display
“OIL LIFE XXX% HOLD RESET =
2. Press and hold the
SELECT/RESET button for two
seconds and release. Oil life is set to
100% and “OIL LIFE SET TO 100%”
Note: To change oil life 100% miles value from 7,500 miles (12,000 km)
or six months to another value, proceed to Step 3.
3. Once “OIL LIFE SET TO XXX%” is displayed, release and press the
SELECT/RESET button to change the oil life start value. Each release
and press will reduce the value by 10%.
I don't know how much better gas mileage you will get with a gear change. I don't think it will be worth the cost verses saving a couple mpg. The 5.4L engine is kinda small for this size truck. The better way to go would be a cold air intake and an aftermarket exhaust this will easily give 5-10 mpg increase over stock and won't sacrafice any power when towing
I'm thinking of buying a 2008 ES 350 and have read the transmission flare discussions on different websites. I wouldn't want to venture a guess as to what the chance is of getting a new ES 350 with a flare problem: 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 50%? If the ES 350 has a flare problem, what is the chance of it being a severe problem vs. a minor nuisance: 0.01%, 1%, 10%, 90%? I've read about other problems afflicting the ES 350 such as engine knocks, interior rattling noises, and wind noise. I'm sure the ES 350 has some minor problems too but those are the major ones I can recall. The easy answer for the potential buyer is to cross off Lexus from the list. Why take the chance? The ES 350 was easily my #1 choice in terms of features and value. I was attracted to the Lexus brand because my impression was that Toyota and Honda generally make the highest-quality under-$40K cars in the world. What would make more sense than buying from Toyota's "luxury" division? Car magazine journalists regularly write about "legendary Lexus quality." That leads to a contradiction: Why does Toyota have such a stellar quality reputation even though it has had ongoing FWD transaxle problems since 1999? Why can't Toyota figure this out? Shouldn't Toyota thoroughly test pre-production models instead of making its customers responsible for quality assurance? Replaced transmissions, buybacks, amazing. It's hard to figure out the precise truth and a manufacturer is probably going to avoid transparency in this kind of situation, so I think I should move on to other makes and models. Any suggestions for FWD alternatives to the 2008 ES 350?