Question about 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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Brakes not working

My brakes were getting a bit slow on their response time. I added some brake fluid and it seemed to get better. Now brake fluid is barely helping. With the brake pedal all the way to the floor, the car barely slows to a stop. Please help.

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Sounds like master cylinder is bad to me or a leak somewhere if you are having to add that much brake fluid

Posted on Apr 16, 2009

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2 Answers

Why don't the brakes work?


which section of the reservoir was low front or rear that tells you which end of vehicle to check for a leak .adding fluid will not fix a leak, or rusted thru line .

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Stalling for a few seconds when leaving a stop sign. This is an intermittent problem. Seems to happen most of the time when turning left when leaving a stop sign. Stalling also happens when rolling slow at...


Is the brake fluid reservoir low? The master brake cylinder may be leaking, the fluid getting sucked into the brakes power booster and then into the vacuum of the intake manifold. Check the vaccuum hose to the brakes power booster to see if it is wet inside with brake fluid.

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With the engine off, depress the brake pedal about 6 times, all the way up and down. While holding the hard pedal down, start the engine, and if the booster is working properly, the pedal will fade down a little bit.

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keep bleeding and you need two people to bleed brakes using pedal pump method --fill master with fluid and have some one pump and hold then open bleeder then close it --then have the some one pumps again [ repeat steps ] when no air -go to next wheel and check in beetween fluid level adding when needed
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COMPLETE BRAKE SYSTEM NEEDS BLEEDING!, REMOVE BRAKE FLUID FILLER CAP TOP UP THE BRAKE FLUID IF LOW, RAISE THE VEHICLE & REMOVE THE WHEELS FOR EASE OF ACCESS THEN CRACK OFF THE BLEED NIPPLES ONE AT A TIME ATTACH HOSE TO A RECEPTACLE SUCH AS A JUG OR BUCKET & GET A FRIEND /WIFE/PARTNER/NEIGHBOR TO PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL ON EACH BRAKE, WHEN NO AIR BUBBLES ARE SEEN & BRAKE FLUID RUNS CONTINUOUSLY REMOVE HOSE & TIGHTEN BRAKE BLEED NIPPLE, DO THIS THREE MORE TIMES ONCE ON EACH CORNER, NOT FORGETTING TO KEEP TOPPING UP THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR OTHERWISE YOU WILL GET MORE AIR IN THE LINES & HAVE TO START ALL OVER AGAIN, ONCE DONE PUT THE WHEELS BACK ON , LOWER THE VEHICLE, MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR IS AT THE RIGHT LEVEL & PUMP THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES, THE SPONGINESS WILL HAVE DISSIPATED & YOUR BRAKES WILL BE MUCH MORE RESPONSIVE.

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3 Answers

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the brakes slows the movement of the car then the trans and engine slows with that I guess you know you have brakes on all 4 wheels by braking you are slowing down the wheels

Apr 16, 2010 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

2002 cr v brake pad/rotor issues


I don't see much of a problem here...The only thing I find to be a bit odd is that rears needed service first. Front brakes do about 65-70% of stopping...generally they tend to wear first. Highway stopping and slowing requires just as much force (and wear) due to the fact that instead of slowing a slow moving vehicle, there is quite a bit more energy to dissipate (brakes convert the stored kinetic energy (momentum) of your vehicle in motion into heat...that's how they stop it from moving) It doesn't take much to slow or stop 3,000lbs (+) going slowly, to stop that same load going 70 is a whole different story.
Todays brake materials are superior to what was available years ago (thank you drag racers and NASCAR) But, because of EPA regulations (fuel mileage mandates) the mass of your brake system has been drastically reduced to the point that it's surprising that they last as long as they do. (mass = weight = less mpg) Having a larger caliper and rotor disipate heat far better than a small assembly can. Therefore essentially your brakes are being asked to do more with far less than ever before.
You can "customize" your system by adding ceramic linings and race type rotors, but the added expense may not justify the small longevity and performance benefit. The factory stuff needs to be a compromise in production cost and reliability. As the vehicle owner you are not bound by that compromise.
Getting nearly 30K between brake services is actually fairly decent. You could take the "sting" out of this service by learning how to do this work yourself. Using the best "premium" parts will cost you far less than dealer prices.
So, answering your question, I do not believe that the dealer is doing anything incorrectly, and the parts they are using are likely far better than most "bargain" parts. I also don't feel that there is anything design-wise that is bad in your vehicle, other than the constraints put on manufacturers regarding all vehicles and production cost. So, it's not just yours.
Hope this helps you understand the why of it...
Good luck with your car!!!

Jul 27, 2009 | 2002 Honda CR-V

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1991 Dodge 3500 D after using brakes hard the ABS light is on and brakes seem to take a while to release. Brake light on dash is on all the time.


Had the same problem in my Dodge Dakota recently. It seems that the hose from the white fill bottle on the brake system had become clogged and even though there appeared to be plenty of brake fluid in there, there was almost none in the master cylinder. Check the level in the master cylinder. Worked for me and the ABS light reset after a couple of days, likely would have reset sooner if i bled the brakes but I just let the bubbles work out on their own...bad idea but it was cold and rainy.

May 09, 2009 | 1996 Dodge Dakota

1 Answer

Brakes lock up autmatically


Try bleeding the entire brake system and I would recommend using fresh brake fluid. Do the front brakes or rear brakes lock up? Perhaps the front calipers need to be worn in a bit since the car has been sitting for a while or the rear wheel cylinders need to be worn in as well. Parts tend to dry up when not used on a regular basis.

Feb 09, 2009 | 1991 Honda Civic

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