When trying to remove the front passenger side axle from my mitsubishi I couldn't get it out, it was simple stuck. My stepdad said he could get it but when he pulled it popped apart at the knuckle. I either need to get it back together or get the other half of the shaft out to take it somewhere that can reconnect them. I'm not sure how to do either. Any help greatly appreciated,
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Re: axle popped apart at knuckle. what now?
Colleen those are called half shafts they can be put back together but I suggest buying another half shaft and replacing it to get the other half out of the transmission you take a prybar and pry it out it snaps in and out it takes a bit of force to get it out
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remove axle nut, remove lower ball joint nut, pop drive shaft loose with punch or wood dowel , pop lower ball join from knuckle pull up push axle out of knuckle , pull back knuckle and tie in place pop out axle with big screwdriver or pry bar ,remove seal replace.
the front wheel bearings on this model are pressed into the knuckle. This means the knuckle will need to be removed from the vehicle and then brought to either a machine shop are a repair facility than can press the old bearing out and then press in the new bearing.
Removing the knuckle should be fairly self explanatory. -Separate the tie rod from the knuckle. -remove the brake caliper. -remove the rotor. -remove the axle nut. -separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle. -remove the drive axle from the hub. -remove the knuckle from the strut.
It is very important that the axle nut be torqued to the proper spec once the bearing has been replaced. Failure to do so will result in the bearing failing prematurely. It is also advisable to get a bearing from a quality, reputable, manufacturer. This is not the time to shop with you check book but it also doesn't mean you need the most expensive one either.
Let me know if you have any questions and thank you for using FIxYa.com
Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.
It's a press-in bearing. If you don't have the tools to press the bearing, you can still save some money. Here's what I did: - Drain transmission oil, - Remove front right wheel, - Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper hanger, - Remove the wheel speed sensor (even if no ABS), - Remove the two large strut bolts (100+ lbs ft/lbs of torque), - Remove the ball joint nut, - Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, - Remove the axle from the transmission using a pry bar.
Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle, wheel hub and brake rotor removed from the car, and it'll all be ceased together. Bring the whole thing to your favorite mechanic and get him to separate all these parts and to install the new bearing in the steering knuckle. It'll cost about $100.
Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle with new bearing and hub installed, and the brake rotor. Take these parts home and put the car back together in reverse order.
Seriously consider replacing the axle while you're at it.
First, disconnect the electrical connector for the ABS at the backing plate if so equipped.
Remove the axle shaft nut and then remove 3 bolts on the back side of the steering knuckle. You may have to tap the axle with a hammer a bit to drive it out of the hub taking care not to damage the axle the and the bearing may also be stuck in the steering knuckle requiring a little, or lot, of hammer action to remove it ! If your car is ABS equipped be aware that on some designs part of the ABS sensor can remain stuck inside the steering knuckle and MUST be removed prior to installing the new bearing. I simply do not remember if the 98 malibu has this design but if it does this is very important. Good luck !
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
Hi.. The step to remove the front Axles of you Vitara.
Raise and support Vehicle . Remove front wheel,
Remove Locking Hub if is equipaded,
Remove Circle clip from axle shaft
On right side of Vehicle, Remove the Stabilizer Little ball joint nut. Remove castle nut Front Tie rod end,
Remove mounting bolts from brake calipper,
Remove Calipper from steering knuckle and wire a side.
Remove Stud Nut from steering knuckle,
Support Lower suspension arm with a jack,
Remove lower strut bracket bolt ,
Lower jack and disconnect Knuckle from lower suspension crontrol arm,
Pull Outler joint from Hub.
Use Large screwdriver or Prybar To pry Right inner joint from differential, The axle will go out making a little froce with the prybar,
To remove the left side,
Remove mounting bolt from inner joint flange,
Pull out axle from hub.
To reinstall just reverse the prosses.
I hope this help on your job...
Thank you for use fixya....