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Re: Cannot get the CV joint Driver side to pry out of the...
I would definitely jack up the whole front of the car and put it on jackstands.
Safety is very important and cars are heavy. Do not trust your safety
to a rubber o ring (hydraulic jack) or a small steel part in a
Before you jack up the car you will want to remove the axle nut as it is hard to remove while the vehicle is jacked up.
remove ball joint connection to hub and tie rod end connection so that you can swing the hub out of the way and the cv shaft will clear. This sometimes can be difficult with the anti sway bar still attached
Swing hub assembly out of the way and pull out the cv shaft.
There is a circlip that is inside of the transmission differential and sometimes it takes a bit of force to get it out.
You may need to pry between the cv joint and the transmission carefully to get it to pop.
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There are thee ways to do this. The first, easiest, but least reliable way is to use split boot repair kit. This allows you to cut the old boot off, clean the joint as best you can, install new grease, and bolt the split boot into place and clamp it. These boots have a higher-than-average failure rate however. The next ways require jacking up the drivers side of the car, remove the wheel, caliper, and rotor. Then remove the hub nut that secures the half-shaft to the wheel bearing. Using a crowbar or other suitable tool, you must pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle and maneuver the half-shaft out of the vehicle. You must take care not to separate the inner CV joint as it is easily damaged if overextended. You may have to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm to remove this shaft as it is the shorter of the two and has less space to work for removal. Once you have the half-shaft out, there are two options - repair or replace. Repair requires removal of the joint from the half-shaft assembly, and it can be difficult for someone with no experience. The easier option is to replace the entire half-shaft with a re-manufactured one. The cost is not much more than that for the repair parts, plus you don't have to worry about dirt, grit and debris in the joint damaging it since it is already fully sealed. Replacement is the reverse of removal. You simply insert the shaft thru the wheel bearing opening and into the transaxle. You must "pop" the inner joint into place to latch it, otherwise it will cause damage by leaking and binding. You will feel it lock in when you do it. The last thing that is critical is that the hub nut has a specific torque requirement. Too much or too little torque will cause the wheel bearing to fail very quickly. So use a reliable torque wrench set at the correct setting. There is no "feel" for the correct tightness on this nut.
To remove an inner CV joint, you must remove the entire half-shaft from the vehicle. Here is the procedure:
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheel Spindle nut Lower ball joint from the knuckle
Press the stub shaft out of the hub, use a plaster hammer if necessary.
If removing the left side halfshaft:
Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the transaxle.
If removing the right side halfshaft:
Using a suitable pry bar, pry the inner joint out of the center bearing bracket.
Remove the center bearing bracket mounting bolts.
Using a suitable pry bar, pry the center bearing bracket from the cylinder block.
Remove the inner shaft from the transaxle.
The individual joints CAN be replaced, but this requires disassembly of the half-shaft by cutting the clamps that hold the boots and frankly is a greasy mess. Remanufactured half-shafts are available for less than $100 USD and are already assembled for immediate installation.
YOU NEED A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB PUSHING THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB,THEN TAP THE SHAFT UNION AT THE JOINT CASE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT AND INNER SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE. IF YOU HAVE AN INNER SHAFT REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT BY SETTING UP A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB AND PRESSING THE HALFSHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB. AFTER PRESSING THE OUTER SHAFT INSERT A PRYBAR BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE CASE AND THE HALFSHAFT AND PRY THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE DONT PULL ON THE SHAFT.
Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.
HI there is nothing really special you need the only thing that really makes t easier is a puller to press the axel out of the knuckle. But the common tools will be A good floor jack, jack stands, metric wrenches and scoots up to 19mm a small 3# hammer and assorted length pry bars.
The replacement of the CV axle is much easier with the vehicle lifted on a suspension lift. With the minivan in neutral and the steering wheel unlocked, removal of the front tire and then caliper assembly will be required. Remove the entire caliper assembly with pads intact to save a step. Be sure to support the caliper assembly to the coil spring so it does not incur damage to the rubber brake hose.
The disconnection of the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end will also be required to allow free movement of the steering knuckle. For Caravans that employ speed sensors, remove the wire harness from the knuckle connection as well.
Remove the cotter pin and castle-headed nut lock from the CV spindle. Next, remove the spring washer and the hub nut. This will require a large socket and breaker bar or a pneumatic gun. To separate the CV axle spindle from the steering knuckle, thread the hub nut back onto the spindle so it's exposing a few threads at the top. Tap on the nut with a large rubber mallet until the splines of the spindle separate from the adjoining knuckle.
At this point, it's wise to place a drain bucket beneath the transaxle side of the CV joint connection to catch trickling transaxle fluid that will leak out once the connection of the axle to transmission is separated.
Because the tie rod end and ball joint connections have been separated, you'll be able to manipulate the knuckle from the CV axle spindle. This requires determination and having an assistant would be helpful.
Once the outer spindle connection of the CV axle is free from the knuckle, you'll need a large pry bar to disengage the inner tri-pot joint out of the transaxle and remove the CV axle from the transmission. This is where some fluid will leak into the drain bucket.
To install the new axle, start with the inner connection to the transaxle so that the inner joint circlip seats in the transaxle side gear. An audible click of the circlip should be heard and then test the connection by trying to pull out on the axle by hand. There will be a little free-play in the axle, but if the circlip is seated, you will not be able to disconnect the axle without the aide of the pry bar.
Next, align the splines of the outer CV axle spindle to the grooves in the steering knuckle. Do not force this connection. Rotate the axle by hand until the splines align properly to the groove. Reconnect the remaining components by reversing the procedure.
Be sure to torque the hub nut, outer tie rod end nut and ball joint retaining nut to the proper torque specifications of your specific year Caravan. Since the Caravan has been around for quite a while and has employed different engine sizes, there may be a slight variance in the torque specs. A quality repair manual for the specific year and design of your Caravan will display the correct torque specs.
Last, replace the wheel and then check and adjust the level of the transaxle fluid. Although only a little may have trickled out by the disconnection, the fluid should be topped off to capacity.
it just pulls out. it hasa circlip that holds it in on driver side. which side?
here's an escort, should be similar. note step 17
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the lug nuts (1012) and the front wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the front fender splash shield bolts and the front fender splash shields (16103) .
Use a small cape chisel to carefully raise the staked portion of the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477).
Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer and discard it.
Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut from the tie rod end (3A130). Discard the cotter pin.
Use an appropriate tie rod end remover to separate the tie rod end from the front wheel knuckle (3K186).
Remove the ball joint bolt and the ball joint bolt nut.
Carefully pry down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) to separate the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) from the front wheel knuckle.
Pull outward on the front wheel knuckle (3K185). Carefully pull the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the front wheel knuckle and position it aside.
NOTE: Removal of the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B437) requires removal of the transmission support crossmember (6A023) to allow access with a pry bar. If the LH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 11. If the RH front wheel driveshaft and joint is being removed, continue with step 15.
Support the transaxle with a transaxle jack or equivalent.
Remove the four transaxle mount-to-rear engine support nuts.
Remove the two rear engine support nuts at the rear of the transmission support crossmember.
While supporting the rear of the transmission support crossmember remove the two rear engine support bolts. Remove the transmission support crossmember.
Position a drain pan under the transaxle.
Insert a pry bar between the front wheel driveshaft and joint and the transaxle case.
CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
Gently pry outward to release the front wheel driveshaft and joint from the differential side gears (4236).
Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears.
If both front wheel driveshaft and joints were removed, install Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH in the differential side gears.
Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing retainer circlip (3Z498).
Jack up car, remove tire, caliper, axle nut and washer. remove and seperate tie rod from spindle and remove lower ball joint nut and separate, pull spindle apart from axle, use a pry bar and pop the other end of axle from trans axlehousing. think backwards to reassemble.
Removal (3000GT AWD) 1. Remove air cleaner cover, air hoses and vacuum pipe. Remove air cleaner, intake hose, battery, battery tray and washer tank. 2. Disconnect transaxle control cables and speedometer cable. Raise and support vehicle. 3. Remove both inner fender splash shields. Remove clutch tube bracket and disconnect clutch release cylinder (including clutch damper assembly on FWD models) and wire aside. Support transaxle assembly with jack and disconnect upper transaxle mount. Remove mount, bracket, plug and stoppers. 4. Remove transaxle assembly upper coupling bolts. Disconnect tie rod ends and lower arm ball joints. Remove right support member, starter cover (if equipped) and starter. 5. Remove left side bearing bracket mounting bolts and pry left axle shaft from transaxle. Wire left axle shaft and inner shaft assembly aside. Pry right axle shaft from transaxle and wire aside. 6. Remove front bank side and rear bank side transaxle stays. Support transaxle assembly with a transmission jack. Remove transaxle assembly lower coupling bolts and lower transaxle from vehicle. 7. Insert a clutch alining tool to prevent pressure plate and clutch disc from falling. Loosen pressure plate bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern to avoid warping pressure plate flange. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc.