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Re: How to reset the ECU
You can't, it has to be done at the dealer. And you cant just reset it. If you have a Service Engine light on because of the intake install the trouble codes will have to be cleared. All they can do is check each module for codes and clear any that tripped. Depending on what your windows are doing they will have to hook up the computer to the vehicle and access the Body Control Module and check all the settings for the power windows. The windows wouldn't have anything to do with the ECU. The Engine Control Module would be affected by the new intake, but not the windows. That could be purely coincidental. But if the windows aren't working right, I would call the dealer since the car is under warranty for 4 years or 60k.
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You can not tune the mix-ECU does this. The only way this change could cause this problem is you have "unmetered air" getting to engine. Insure all hoses are correctly installed, have no leaks, and that MAF is working right.
Intake air flow meter and air intake temp sensor give ECU information; then coolant temp sensor has big influence on fuel mix, throttle position sender tells ECU what driver wants, then O2 sensor(s) do fine trim to fuel mix.
It is pretty straight forward remove the old bags take note of anything removed and how it sets. line up the clock spring install the new air bags and then the ECU. If you install the ecu without the bags and turn the ignition on you will set the SRS light off again and need to get it reset so avoid doing so.
I really doubt that the problem is the PCM (ECU), that is the least likely thing that would cause these codes. The causes will take a factory manual and good test equipment that can read live mainstream engine and sensor data.
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find
DTC P1514 Definition: Airflow to TP Sensor Correlation High
When you step on the gas, and the TP opens up, it is set to match the speed of the engine, based on the ECU settings. P1514 means you intake is pulling in too much air for the amount it should be getting at that current engine speed. So basically your getting more air than fuel, because the ECU is adjusting you throttle wrong, you need to lower your air flow. This could be caused by a problem with the ECU, try having the ECU reset, and that may fix your problem. I would not suggest manually restricting the air flow by blocking or pinching the intake tubes or blocking the air filter, this will cause further problems, and would be a temporary and unnecessary fix. If this doesn't fix your problem, than the throttle plate could be out of adjustment by mechanical error, in this cases manually inspect the throttle body.
Location of the sensor: - in early cars is in the ECU, with vacuum pipe going from intake maniforld duct to the ECU - later models on the air intake duct, with wiring going to the ECU.
The fault may often be caused by:
- air leaks in MAP sensor line to the ECU (early ones only) or any of the vacuum control line hoses. This normally due to perished/loose flexi pipes, etc). - leaks in the air hoses going between turbo/engine/intercooler. Can be spotted by slight oil contamination at the point of leak.
Or it's variable vaine sticking (even intermittently) in the turbo due to contamination, preventing the turbo from performing according to the ECU demand, and hence being 'shut-off' by th ECU
So - check all vacum line for leaks, ensure turbo actuator is free to move, all air hoses are intact and secure, intercooler not leaking.
I take it this is an automatic? Try disconnecting the negative terminal to the battery for 10 mins. Then connect it and idle the car for 10 mins, then drive it LIGHTLY for another 10 or so. Disconnecting the negative terminal will cut power to the ECU and it will have to relearn values. Many tuners, when they install mods such as intake, exhaust, headers, etc get their cars ECU to relearn the fuel trims, etc.