Question about 2000 Plymouth Neon

1 Answer

Timeing belt access

I can not get the right engine mount or engine mount plate out to get at the timeing belt cover there is not enogh room to remove it after getting the mounting bolt and 4 attaching bolts out

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  • cwshoop Apr 16, 2009

    i need more detail on how to get the sepentine belt tensioner plate out and getting at the rear bolt that holds it in.doyou have to tilt the engine?is there room to slide this assembly up and out?all went well up to this point in the proceedure.i had already found the info you sent me on your site.

  • cwshoop Apr 17, 2009

    the chronoscender freeserver.com solution was just what i was looking for! very detailed! thanx!cwshoop

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  • Master
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Hi cwshoop,

My 2000 Dodge Neon had 105,000 miles on it and needed the timing belt changed. This is not an easy task and you will find it takes about 6-8 hours if you have all the needed parts ready to install if you need them. Don't expect to just go to the local parts place and obtain some of these parts. There are several dealer only parts.
Before you start this job: 1. Inspect the upper and lower torque struts that hold the motor on the passenger side. Order them ahead of time if you see they are damaged. Make sure the local parts store has them in stock if you are not sure of their integrity. You can tell if they are bad when you remove them; they just fall apart or you can see the split neoprene. 2. Inspect your accessory belts and the serpentine tensioner pulley prior to beginning the work. Order the belts (If you have over 75,000 miles on the vehicle, you will need the new accessory belts.) or know where you can purchase them locally. 3. Make sure you can get a new timing belt tensioner unit locally at your Mopar Dealer. If you have a mechanical timing belt tensioner, you are warned by a Dodge technical bulletin to replace it with a hydraulic unit. 4. Order a water pump and replace it while replacing the timing belt. 5. Of course, purchase a timing belt, lol...
First, it was necessary to remove the passenger side tire and the splash guard behind the tire in the wheel well. The next items to remove were the accessories belts (ac, alternator, etc.) which included the serpentine belt. The crankshaft damper had to be removed with a three-arm puller tool and a small insert that protects the crankshaft threads.
Remove the power steering pump by just setting it off to the side after removing the bolts. You don't have to undo the hoses; just lay it over to the side.
Using a floor jack, you hold the engine in place while you remove the lower torque arms. Inspect the upper and lower torque arms carefully as mine needed replaced. I was very lucky that a local parts store had the lower torque arm at their warehouse; I ordered the upper torque arm as I could easily see it was broken. I would at least inspect these torque arms carefully for broken neoprene prior to beginning the timing belt change; the engine could have fallen off the lower torque arm if I had hit a huge bump while driving. When I took the upper torque arm loose, the engine shifted on the floor jack and the lower torque arm neoprene completely separated, allowing the engine to shift off the arm. The lower torque arm is about 2' long and made of aluminum with neoprene inserts for the engine to ride more smoothly on when hitting bumps. You must also remove the upper torque arm on the engine passenger side about 12" in length; that was also broken on my car and had to be replaced. The torque arms were about $112 for both.
Next, you must remove the serpentine tensioner plate which has three bolts; I think. This was a totally unexpected cost for my timing belt replacement when I tried to purchase only the plastic tensioner pulley and was informed that the item was not a replacement part; you had to go to Dodge and purchase an entire plate (with a redesigned "hydraulic" tensioner for the serpentine belt tensioner). I went to a local salvage yard and obtained a fairly new tensioner pulley for about $3; the old plastic pulley was completely worn away. A new serpentine tensioner plate with the integral tensioner was $429 at Dodge; I was very happy that I found the replacement pulley for $3 at the local salvage yard saving about $426.
You can now remove the front timing cover. Make sure to align the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks before removing the timing belt. The camshaft pulley has a mark that needs to align with the mark on the head above the pulley. The crankshaft sprocket should line up at the same time with its mark at the top of the oil pump assembly. If you accidentally move the camshaft in some manner, after you remove the timing belt, you can damage the pistons or valves.
Next, to loosen the old timing belt, you need to look at the tensioner. Insert an 8 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the front of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley counterclockwise until it contacts the stop. While holding tensioner pulley against stop, insert a 1/8" or 3 mm diameter pin or Allen wrench through the hole located to the left of the hex opening. While pushing pin into hole, allow the tensioner pulley to rotate back. Almost immediately, the pin should engage the locking hole to prevent further movement of the pulley. I was totally surprised by what happened when I tried to purchase a new timing belt tensioner pulley as my pulley was worn quite badly. I received the wrong part to replace the tensioner pulley three times at three different parts stores. It took about an hour to discover that there was a problem with the old "mechanical" timing belt tensioners. It is not just recommended that you change the tensioner; you must replace the timing belt tensioner plate and all if you have the older mechanical tensioner. This is a technical bulletin from Mopar that says there have been several "explosions" of the mechanical units with engine replacements needed; the tensioner actually blew a hole in the engine block. Of course, this is not a "free replacement" due to a manufacturing problem; you must purchase this item. Some of the latter models of the 2000 Neon have had the hydraulic units installed and all you need to purchase is the tensioner pulley which costs about $30. You can tell if you have the mechanical one when you actually get into and remove the timing belt; the mechanical unit has four pronounced legs, while the hydraulic unit is more of a plate (even though the holes align for both units). You must replace the back timing belt cover with a new tensioner installation (and it comes with the kit). Mine, of course, was the earlier model and required a complete plate, hydraulic unit and tensioner pulley replacement. And, of course, it was a dealer item only with a cost of $469. I had no choice but to drive (a borrowed auto) about 100 miles to a dealer that had one in stock. Before you begin your job of timing belt replacement, find out if you own an earlier 2000 and also locate a dealer with the unit in stock. You honestly should install the hydraulic unit as the technical bulletin explains the damage from an "explosion".



Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Apr 15, 2009

    While you are in there, you should replace the water pump. If you read all the bulletins and people's posts about this item going bad just after they finished the timing belt, you really should just purchase the water pump and make sure it has the seal in the kit (Mine did not include the water pump seal.). The water pump was only $40. If you have to replace it, you see all the trouble you must go through again to get it out of the timing belt area. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.
    The oil pump is also driven by the timing belt; however, there are not many failures of the oil pumps.
    Now you may start to put the timing belt into place. If you have gotten the timing just a tiny bit off, you can follow the procedure as below. It is hard to explain in words only without pictures; however, I will try to do so. You can email me with further questions and I can send you drawings or pictures that are more explicit.
    Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off to 3 notches before TDC, that is clockwise three teeth. Use a large wrench and the crankshaft nut to carefully adjust the timing. This is to allow for belt installation later.
    Set camshaft to TDC by aligning mark on sprocket with the arrow on the rear of timing belt cover.
    Move crankshaft to 1/2 mark before TDC for belt installation.
    Install timing belt. Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket and then around the camshaft sprocket.
    Move crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up belt slack.
    Remove the pin or 1/8" or 3 mm Allen wrench from belt tensioner.
    Rotate crankshaft 2 revolutions and check the alignment of the timing marks.



  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Apr 15, 2009

    Install front timing belt cover. Install engine mount bracket. Install right engine mount to engine mount bracket through bolt. Remove jack from under engine. Install upper torque strut. Install power steering pump assembly. Raise vehicle and install lower torque strut. Install crankshaft damper using M12-1.75 x 150 mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from Special Tool 6792. Install crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to 142 Nm (100 ft. lbs.). Install accessory drive belts. Install right inner splash shield.
    Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows: Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column. Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen. Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen.
    It is not a fun job unless you enjoy some very hard work and have a few specialized tools. The scan tool was purchased at Sears (I hope I can say a specific name. You can purchase the scan tool at a parts store or off the web as well.). The special tool is a three-arm puller. The other special tool is to protect the crankshaft threads. Hope this helps!!! 

    Thanks for using Fixya.





  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Apr 16, 2009

    I have personally followed this person's advice step-by-step, and it worked flawlessly. 

    The bearings of the serpentine drive belt tensioner pulley in my 2000 Dodge Neon were starting to go bad and a horrific grinding noise was coming from the engine compartment. After reading up on all the work that needed to be done (a local mechanic offered to replace it for $700), I decided to do a little searching on the Internet and I came across this web page. 

    http://chronoscender.freeservers.com/neo...

    As stated in an update near the top of the page, the only thing that has changed over time is Napa now sells an OEM duplicate of the pulley, so you don't need to install the 6 rib size outlined in the instructions. The OEM replacement is around $30, as opposed to Mopar's price of $130, and it comes with a lifetime guarantee. To learn how to safely lift the engine out of the compartment without completely removing it, follow the link on the same page as above called Neon Timing Belt Replacement

    Also, make sure you stabilize the engine when raising it up. I lifted the engine using a 2 ton jack under the oil pan and it must have come up too tilted, because I ended up tearing the rubber insert of one of the motor mounts and had to replace the whole thing. In retrospect I think I must have missed removing the bolt of that mount before attempting to raise the engine high enough in the compartment to get at the plate the pulley is connected to. 

    That's all I have. 



    Thanks for using Fixya.


    Do rate the solution.

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Re-sealing timing belt cover 2007 Camry


wow no engine stated, post engine size.
depends if mechanic is size of squirrel or a gorilla.
huh?
why not longin to alldata. com and read the page on timing belt changeout.
you can goggle this, 1000s of hits, why not ?

there are serious costs to do service on most FWD cars.
next time buy a RWD car. far easier to fix.
FWD is cheaper to make, (pull rad, fix, put back Rad)
there are 3 engines. ill roll the dice, and log in to alldata.
and see. 37steps out and 37 steps in,
about
not one word, TO pull engine, 2AZ-FE CHAIN
THE 2GR-fe ENGINE IS CHAIN TO.
see step 29, your posted ITEM>!!
PASTED, 2gr CAM BELT SECTIONS;
  • 2007 TOYOTA Camry HV

1. REMOVE LUGGAGE TRIM SERVICE HOLE COVER
2. DISCONNECT CABLE FROM NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL
3. REMOVE NO. 1 ENGINE COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
4. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL RH
5. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER LH
6. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
7. REMOVE FRONT FENDER APRON SEAL RH
8. DRAIN ENGINE OIL


10. REMOVE NO. 2 ENGINE MOUNTING STAY RH
11. REMOVE ENGINE MOVING CONTROL ROD SUB-ASSEMBLY
12. REMOVE NO. 2 ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
13. REMOVE V-RIBBED BELT TENSIONER COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
21. SET NO. 1 CYLINDER TO TDC/COMPRESSION
22. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
23. REMOVE CRANK POSITION SENSOR
24. REMOVE OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY
Remove the 12 bolts and 2 nuts.
Insert the blade of SST between the crankcase and oil pan. Cut through the sealer and remove the oil pan.

25. REMOVE NO. 1 CHAIN TENSIONER ASSEMBLY
Remove the 2 nuts, tensioner and gasket.

Do not turn the crankshaft without the chain tensioner.
26. INSTALL ENGINE HANGERS
Install the No. 1 engine hanger and No. 2 engine hanger with the bolts as shown in the illustration.
  • Attach the sling device to the engine hangers and chain block.
27. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR
Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers.
  • Do not attempt to hang the engine by hooking the chain to any other part.
  • Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine mounting insulator FR.
  • Remove the 4 nuts from the engine mounting insulator RH.

  • Raise the engine and remove the engine mounting insulator RH.
28. REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
Remove the 3 bolts and engine mounting bracket RH.
29. REMOVE TIMING CHAIN COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY
30. REMOVE TIMING CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL
31. REMOVE NO. 1 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR PLATE
Remove the crankshaft position sensor plate.
AND SO ON,,,, end. quote.

AS YOU CAN SEE ITS NOT A MOTOR PULL BUT IS UNMOUNTED
AND FLOATED,

Now begs the question, which is less work. the above, or just pull the engine, and work sitting down. easy work and higher quality
may that depends on the person and his/her size.

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1 Answer

How i do the timing on my 87 subaru gl awd


It's a bit of a pain but here is what you set it to:


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Aligning the marks on the flywheel with the marks on the flywheel cover



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Driver side timing belt (No. 2) and No. 2 tensioner-1.8L engine




c17hydro_189.gif

Passenger side timing belt (No. 1) and No. 1 tensioner


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
  3. Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator belt.
  4. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and remove the water pump pulley.
  5. Disconnect the electrical harness from the oil pressure switch.
  6. Remove the dipstick tube.
  7. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  8. Remove the timing belt cover plate, if equipped.
  9. Remove the timing belt cover bolts on the left, right, and center covers.
  10. Remove the timing belt covers.
  11. Remove the rubber cover seal. Clean all mating surfaces.

To install:

  1. Install a new timing belt cover seal.
  2. Install the timing belt covers on the engine using the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
  3. Install the timing belt cover plate, if removed.
  4. Install the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the bolt to 69-76 ft. lbs. (93-103 Nm)
  5. Install the dipstick tube.
  6. Connect the electrical harness to the oil pressure switch.
  7. Install the water pump pulley and loosely install the mounting bolts.
  8. Install the drive belt and adjust the tension as necessary. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts.
  9. Tighten the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.
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1 Answer

Time belt istall on kia sophea


Hi. Here is the procedure on how to replace the timing belt

tools required:
- 10, 12, 14, 21 mm sockets / wrench
- 17 mm deep socket
- breaker bar
- phillips screwdriver
- 2 regular jacks
- 6 pack budlight or smirnoff

1- jack up the car and remove left tire.

2- remove two platic retainers in the cover under the fog light hole, purpose of this is to provide enough room for the fender cover to move around.

3- cover underneath the left fender to access the crank pulley. remove two plastic retainers using the phillips screwdriver, remove 3 10mm bolts that attach the cover to the crossmember (radiator support).

4- remove both alternator and power steering belts.

7- put second jack under the engine and jack it up until you can see the engine moving upwards just a couple millimeters (too much might damage the motor mounts).

8- remove left motor mount (the one by the belts) using 17mm deep socket. It will give you better access to the bolts in the timing belt cover.

5- remove timing belt cover. (6 10mm bolts)

6- with the 21mm socket at the crank pulley give the engine two full turns and align all the timing marks (small arrows pointing downwards you'll find three markings, 2 in the valve cover above the cam gears, and one one the block above the crank) TIP: I like to give the engine the two full turns, verify that everything is fine and then give it an aprox. 1/4 turn more, until i feel there is no resistance in the cam gears, then mark with a chalk stick, makes it so much easier to put the new belt on.

6- remove crank pulley

8- loosen timing belt tensioner (14mm bolt, left pulley)

that should cover everything, replacement is the inverse, should take you about 2 hours.

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1 Answer

How do I time a 2006 dodge caravan 2.4L


2.4L Engine
NOTE You may need DRB scan tool to perform the crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure.
  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Right front wheel and inner splash shield
    • Accessory drive belts
    • Crankshaft damper
    • A/C compressor/alternator tensioner and pulley assembly
    • Lower front timing cover
    • Upper front timing cover
    • Right engine mount
    • Engine mount bracket

    NOTE This is an interference engine. Do not rotate the crankshaft or the camshafts after the timing belt has been removed. Damage to the valve components may occur. Before removing the timing belt, always align the timing marks.
  2. Rotate the crankshaft until the Top Dead Center (TDC) mark on the oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on the camshaft sprocket (located on the trailing edge of the tooth).
  3. Loosen the timing belt tensioner lock bolt.
  4. Insert a 6mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate clockwise until there is enough slack to remove the belt.
  5. If necessary, remove the camshaft timing belt sprockets.
  6. If necessary, remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket using removal tool No. 6793, or equivalent.
  7. Place the tensioner into a soft-jawed vise to compress the tensioner.
  8. After compressing the tensioner, insert a pin (a 5/64 in. Allen wrench will also work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.

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Camshaft and crankshaft alignment marks—2.4L engine


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To lock the timing belt tensioner, be sure to fully insert the smaller Allen wrench into the tensioner as shown—2.4L engine



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Installation of the timing belt, notice the camshaft alignment— 2.4L (VIN B) engine


To install:
  1. If necessary, use tool No. 6792, or equivalent, to install the crankshaft timing belt sprocket onto the crankshaft.
  2. If necessary, install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).
  3. Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.
  4. Set the camshafts timing marks so the exhaust camshaft is 1/2 notch below intake camshaft sprocket. Make sure the arrows on both camshaft sprockets are facing up
  5. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets and around the tensioner pulley.
  6. Move the exhaust camshaft sprocket counterclockwise to take up the belt slack.
  7. Insert a 6mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate counterclockwise until there is no slack on the belt. The tensioner setting notch will start to move clockwise. Watch the notch and continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, tighten the tensioner lock bolt to 220 inch lbs. (25 Nm). The setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after the lock nut is tightened.
  8. Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks.
  9. Check the spring tang is within the tolerance window. If not within the window, reinsert the Allen wrench and into the hexagon opening located on the top plate of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the top plate counterclockwise until there is no slack on the belt. The tensioner setting notch will start to move clockwise. Watch the notch and continue rotating the top plate counterclockwise until the setting notch is aligned with the spring tang. Using the Allen wrench to prevent the top plate from moving, tighten the tensioner lock bolt to 220 inch lbs. (25 Nm). The setting notch and spring tang should remain aligned after the lock nut is tightened.
  10. Install the engine mount bracket.
  11. Install the front timing belt covers.
  12. Install the A/C compressor/alternator tensioner and pulley assembly.
  13. Install the right engine mount.
  14. Install the crankshaft damper
  15. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.
  16. Install the right inner splash shield and wheel.
  17. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  18. Perform the crankshaft and camshaft relearn alignment procedure using the DRB scan tool, or equivalent

Please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today... If there is any further assistance i can provide for you please let me know..

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It's a pain to get out I just did mine belt and water pump it took about 3 times as long as I thought.
Make sure all the bolts are loose, make sure you have removed the tranmission mount as it gives you more room to move the engine. It's suggest you take the exhaust off as well as you can damage it if you jack the engine up too high. Lossen the bolts on the motor mount across from that plate, you will not be able to remove the motor mount but you can spin it allowing you to get that big plate out.

PM dhirst on ptcrew.com if you want some pics or more instructions.

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Change water pump on 1995 toyota cor.le


alfred11s: No, you don't have to lift the motor. You do have to remove the right hand engine mounting insulator.
I will give you the procedure for the removal to access the pump:.
1.Drain engine coolant
2. remove right hand engine mounting insulator
3. Remove #2 and # 3 timing belt covers
4. Remove front engine mounting insulator as follows
a. remove hole cover
b. remove the 2 bolts from the mounting
c. remove the nut, the through-bolt and front engine mounting insulator
5. Remove the electric cooling fan
6.Disconnect engine wire remove the bolt and 2 nuts and disconnect the engine wire.
Water pump removal instructions:
1. Disconnect the crank sensor connector from the dipstick tube
2, Remove the dipstick tube and dipstick (only 1 bolt holds it)
3. Disconnect the water temp sensor from harness
4, Remove the two nuts and the # 2 water inlet from the hose.
5.Remove the three bolts which retain the water pump!
CAUTION! try to keep antifreeze off the timing belt. Put rags down and pack them where the coolant would normally spill.
WELL alfred11s: My answer should be a pleasant surprise.
Print it out and carry it out to the car.
If I've done well, maybe you can comment on what you think

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