Please try a simple test for me. no.1: remove the radiator cap off the radiator. no.2: if you could see the see the radiator opening from within you car much better, then try to crank your car to an idle. if coolant blows out of the mouth of the radiator like an erupting volacano, then take note of this. no.3: while the engine is running at idle try to look at the coolant through the mouth of the radiator, if you see bubbles like washing your hands with soap and the suds trailing to a drain, then take note of this.
the reason why i'm telling you all of this is that, the coolant should flow like a clear stream. you don't have to worry about purging the system of air because, the water pump is already situated a few inches below the highest water capacity of the radiator. it means that if you drained your system and refiled the radiator to the brim, just start your engine and add a few more coolant to fill it up because the running engine simply purges the waterpump of air.
now, if you tried no.2, and you did see and somewhat like an errupting volcano, that means your engine is in serious trouble, so is no.3. however, a tolerable bubble flow is still possible but your valve clearances should be tuned if this happens. excessive bubbles accompanied by blow out of coolant means your combustion gases are seeping through the head gasket due to a damaged head gasket, warped cyclinder head, cracked cylinder head, or even a cracked cyclinder liner(or bore where the piston glides up and down). think back! did you ever experienced overheating you car to a point where it stalled completely? then, you need a thourough engine checkup.
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sounds like air in system ...
Leave the radiator cap off, turn the engine on and let it
run until the radiator "burps": You will see the coolant level drop and
may see or hear a large air bubble come to the top as the system burps.
Keep an eye on the temperature gauge throughout this process
Refill the radiator to the top and coolant reservoir as needed.
Put the radiator cap back on.
Note that if the engine runs hot after this procedure there
may have been another pocket of air that "burped." Let the engine cool
down and then add more coolant to both the radiator and the coolant
Drain the cooling system to a level below the thermostat housing.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the surge tank line from the thermostat housing.
Remove thermostat housing-to-intake manifold attaching bolt and nut, then remove the housing.
Remove the thermostat.
Clean all gasket surfaces completely.
Insert the thermostat in the intake manifold.
Attach the thermostat housing to the intake manifold.
Install the mounting bolt and nut. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
for the 3.1L engine. For the 3.3L engine, tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27
Install the air cleaner assembly.
Connect the surge tank line to thermostat housing.
Refill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable, remove the radiator cap, then
start the engine. Allow the engine to run with radiator cap removed,
until the upper radiator hose becomes hot (thermostat open). With the
engine idling, add coolant to the radiator until the level is up to the
bottom of the filler neck.
Install the radiator cap, making sure the arrows line up with the overflow tube.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback
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CHECK COOLANT LEVEL STILL LOW.ADD MORE COOLANT.UNTIL RADIATOR OVERFLOW FULL AT COLD MARK.THEN CRANK ENGINE UP LET IDLE FEW MINUTES LOOK DOWN COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG ADD MORE COOLANT IF LEVEL DROPPED.WHILE ENGINE RUNNING KEEP EYE ON TEMPERATURE GAUGE.WHEN THERMOSTAT HOSE GET HOT.TURN OFF ENGINE WAIT A LITTLE WHILE TO KEEP FROM GETTING SCALD TAKE LARGE RAG PLACE OVER OVERFLOW JUG RADIATOR CAP.OPEN CAP A LITTLE A TIME.IF COOLANT TRIES BOIL OUT.LET VECHICLE SET A WHILE LONGER.ADD MORE COOLANT.WHEN COOLANT LEVEL CORRECT AND ALL AIR OUT THE COOLANT SYSTEM.IT WILL STOP OVERHEATING.LONG AS ENGINE RUNNING HOT TURN OFF THE ENGINE POUR IN MORE COOLANT UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP DROPPING IN RADIATOR.KEEP COOLANT LEVEL IN OVERFLOW AT COLD MARK.DONT OVER FILL OVERFLOW JUG.
Have you bled the system. If not when the engine is cool, remove the radiator cap and run the car until the thermostat opens.( Be sure you have the heater controls set to hot and the fan running so you can feel the air temp.) You can tell when this happens because the coolant level drops noticably. Add more coolant until the level is correct. Also run the car at a higher RPM when you are doing this to get the fluid circulating. Put the cap back on and feel the heat at the defrosters. Keep the RPMs up and the air should get warmer indicating the system is bled.
What I would check before replacing the thermostat. Is to make sure that you got enough coolant in the engine. When you are refilling the coolant, the thermostat keeps you from getting any coolant in the engine. All you will fill is the radiator. The thermostat has to open to allow coolant in the engine block. So double check to see if you have enough coolant.
With cool engine... open radiator cap and look inside radiator. Do you see lots of sediment and calcium growth on radiater tubes? If yes, a coring may be needed. If only slightly bad, a radiator flush may be needed... then refill with 50 percent antifreeze.
Good thermostat, cleaned cooling system, non-leaking water pump, good water flow via water pump... nothing else left (unless you put the thermostate in backwards)..
radiator antifreeze: open drain **** on radiator and drain refill with water re plug and leave radiator cap off. start vehicle. watch when coolant drops or rises drastically as that is the thermostat opening. at that time re open drain **** and fill radiator with hose water at the same time. when water coming out is completely clear again turn vehicle off and drain radiator again. fill with antifreeze and water mix. 50/50
oil: jack up car, find oil plug, directly behind steering rack on oil pan. undo plug and drain oil into container. while oil is draining remove oil filter. wait for oil to drain completely then re-install drain plug and new oil filter(filled with oil) undo oil cap and pour in oil 4.5 quarts on n/a and 5 for turbo. tighten cap and your done.
brake system: dont attempt, use an experienced mechanic as the lines need to be bled in numerous places including inside the car from the abs module mounted behind the passenger seat.
easy brake system: individually bleed brakes while adding fluid until clear fluid comes out. (not efficient)
a/c: do not attempt unless you have an evac pump for ac systems.
clutch: same as easy brake except using the bleed valves at the slave cylinder and on passenger side fender well.
washer fluid: add fluid and squirt a little to make sure there is no air in the line
first question is after you changed your hose and refilled while the car was running with the radiator cap locked but loose with the heater on high and set on hot run the car till the thermostat opens shut the car down once it does anti freeze level will drop and air will rise and (extreme caution taken with drain pan below ) start the car use two people run it shut it down let air escape threw cap start again run a couple of minutes shutdown again let cool down take cap off restart car with cap off watch radiator level will somone lightly increases gas peddle refill level to top reinstall cap completely tight then let idle down some vehicles have a small bleeder mounted in the thermostat houseing or in line with the radiator circulation system
these cars are notorious for that.It needs to be "burped" when your car is cold then open the resivoir(coolant).Start the car .As it warms you will notice the tank level will rise.Do not let it boil over!! when it starts to get warm then turn the car off and watch for bubbles in the resivior.add more coolant as the bubbles come out .repeat until no more bubbles come up.The problem with these cars is that an air pocket forms in the water pump.