Question about 1988 Honda Prelude

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1994 honda prelude cutting out when at standstill. (Automatic)

I have just had new valves,pistons fitted because cam belt snapped, ever since it cuts out whenever i am at a standstill,is fine when i first start it.

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  • Dale Barrett
    Dale Barrett May 11, 2010

    Does the engine stop turning over or does it just stop running. Did you know that these engines are very particular when it comes to the valve adjustment. If its not siezing due to tight tolerances, I would agree with madadam. Check the valve adjustment.

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Check the valve (tappets) clearances.. Gaps close up when warm, which could be leading to valves not closing. Exhaust 7-8 thou; inlet 6-7 thou. Could also be air measuring unit leaving the 'choke' on - 2 bolts on front of throttle body with wires and two small water hoses on it. Gauze soots up - spray liberally with carb cleaner. Faulty temperature sender could also cause this.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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When a timing belt goes out on a 1994 Honda Accord LX I was told that this year of Honda it would damage the heads is this true?


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1989 honda prelude. engine surges. from normal to 2100 rpms


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Belt snapped an i have changed the valves i need


Fit them to the crank shaft, that gives you the rough positions. Given you have changed the valves in order and properly sprung you can set the bottom pully to the top(12 0'clock) position, noting which piston is at the top of its stroke, or vary it slightly so its at stroke, Check your head against the block and turn the cam so the inlet valve for that chamber is open. do the same with the next piston in your firing sequence, turning the camshaft accordingly, to ensure the inlet valve opens fully. Fit the gasket and tighten the nuts down lightly, set up the timingmarks by eye,fit the belt and by turning the bottom pully you should find there is no resistance between the piston heads and the valve seats, thats why you don't tighten the head down as not to damage the valves if not firing in line. You should be ok though, tighten the head down slowly checking the pistons and valve contact is not an issue, turning the engine with the socket a full revolution with every turn of the bolts. Once fully tightned, before torquing, turn the engine FULLY to ensure there is NO piston/valve contact, then fit all ancillaries, set timing using a standard strobe and the distributer. Hope this helps, it should do, Regards Dave

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1 Answer

Technical specification and clearances for T4


You could check with the AA. Personally I feel it unlikely their vehicles were of a different spec, unlike the Post Office and Royal Mail vehicles of earlier times that were ordered in far greater numbers.

Diesel engine pistons often protrude at tdc and sometimes the head gaskets are of a selective thickness to ensure the right piston/head clearance. Sometimes the pistons are of selective heights and sometimes everything is selective. When problems arise it is well not to take anything for granted and measure everything at least twice and add them to sketches in order to clarify what is happening.

When fitting a new head and/or valves or simply having the head resurfaced it is important to ensure the valves are a sufficient distance below the head face to avoid piston to valve contact. Sometimes it is necessary to cut the valve seats considerably to achieve this. When resurfacing a head and removing more than three or four thou, the valve seats shoul be cut by a similar amount.

Once you know the head is ready and assembled it would be well to measure the distance the valves open and compare it with specs to roughly decide whether the camshaft is correct. If the tappets or lifters are hydraulic it is important to fit them empty and ignore the instructions to prime them with oil. If the valve clearances are shim set then select the correct shims for the upper or wide end of the tolerance.

Engines are usually timed at tdc, though not all. If your engine is timed at tdc I suggest you temporarily fit the head and time it by instinct - valves of No 4 in the centre of overlap and No 4 piston at tdc, or similar...
If the cam and/or the cam wheel is correct the official timing marks will either be almost aligned or about 180 degrees out and the marks should be safe to use. With a valve timing diagram and a degree disc the check could be more accurate.

If the timing marks are a long way off either something is wrong with the cam and/or wheel or the engine isn't timed at tdc...
This can be checked by instinct timing and then turning the crank carefully to bring the marks into alignment, or not as the case might be.
Good luck!

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you need to make sure that the #1 cylinder is top dead center of the compression stroke,

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I do not think the original problem even matters at this point since the engine is probably broke with valves running into pistons.. when you fix it replace every thing that is broken.. and .. just getting in there and replacing the belt can alert you to any additional coming problems like the bearing going bad in the tensioner.. always check or replace the tensioner if there is any doubt as to its condition.. good luck.

Aug 03, 2008 | 1997 Honda Prelude

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