Re: can you change seals on the supply pump return line
If you just want to change the seal at the fuel lines, you may be able to if you have enough patience and a few specially bent wrenches. It is much easier to remove the turbo. If you do remove the turbo don't forget to replace the two o-rings. If you want to remove the pump completly (most of the time a new pump is needed to repair a leak), then I would remove the fuel supply tube bolt from the back of the pump, remove the fuel lines from both heads, replacing the grommets with the updated grommet which resist breaking apart from the newer fuels. Then remove the two bolts from the pump and rotate the engine by hand untill the pump comes up about a half inch. This way if the tappet falls out of the pump the cam lobe will be up enough that it will not fall down into the engine. Then you can replace the o-ring at the bottem of the pump and all the rest of the seals or the entire pump. Don't forget when going back together seat the pump and then rotate the engine by hand again untill the pump sits almost flush and then torque everything. The fuel supply tube should be about 40 ft. lbs. The bolts are probably around 120 inch lbs like everything else but just use good judgement. You can make a clicking sound while using a regular ratchet if it makes you feel better.
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switch in off-Disconnect the negative battery-Remove luggage floor
covering comparment-Disconnect harness connector supply line and return
line from flange-Remove screw cap with ring spanner-Remove flange nut
and sealing ring from opening-Looseng fuel tank fuel pump
The fuel pump is located under the turbo on that truck. It is most likley washing sediment/old fluids out of the vally of toyr engine. It is also driven by a push rod that ths cam drives, so the lower pump o-ring may be leaking too. You can change the fuel pump without pulling the turbo. Good Luck
whatch for a clogged crankcase ventilation system. internal crankcase presssure(excessive) will push oil out the turbo shaft seal. also you have a supply line for fresh oil to the turbo and a return line. if the return line gets carboned up and there is nowhere for the oil to go it will push out through the turbo shaft seal.
sense its a deisel i would go with the vacume pump, diesels don't put out any or very little vacume, if you don't have vacume than booster won't work hense hard peddel. when you say you let up on peddel and hit it again you got better break tells me it is not getting enought vacume to booster. i would go for the vacume pump.
do not understand you what you mean. assuming your car was ok before you changed f/filter you need to bleed the fuel system of air. esiest to do would be to loosen fuel line at the injectors and have assistant crank the engine while you observe for clear fuel leak without any air bubbles from fuel line.tighten fuel lines and start engine. might have to repeat a few times. good luck.