Question about 1990 Toyota 4Runner

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I broke a rear brake line and replaced it myself and now i cant bleed the air out of the system and yes ive inspected all lines for holes or leaks checked all fittings and book doesnt have any info about it and says to take to the dealership and i dont have that kind of money so some help would be nice

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Some times there is so much air in the system after a repair like this that it takes a Looong time and a lot of diligent pumping to get it all out... the proper procedure to do it manually is to have two people and when the helper pushes the pedal down, close the bleeder and wait for the pedal to come back up... open the bleeder again, then repeat... This can be a tedious proposition if like I said a lot of air is in the system. One way to expedite this is to buy a vacuum bleeder kit, attach to the right rear wheel cylinder or caliper, pump the vacuum up and wait for all the bubbles to stop... remember to keep the master cylinder topped up! once you have all the air out of that bleeder, switch to the left rear, then the right front, then the left front...Hope this helps... ;-)

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

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I PUT NEW BRAKES. HUBS AND WHEEL CLY. ON MY 94 TEMPO. THE LEFT SIDE BLEEDS BUT THE RIGHT SIDE DONT. WHAT CAN BE WRONG?


Sounds like a leak in the brake line.
In the first place the front disc brakes do 70% of the work to stop the vehicle .
When you need to bleed your brakes you break into the system this lets fluid out air will get in every time so even a pin hole in the line or at a fitting will let air in slowly .The problem is air is compressible fluid is not so look for leaks at rear lines and fittings its vary common for rear lines to rust out and many inexpensive ways to repair them .
An other thing to know is when bleeding brakes is if you didn't open the front lines you don't need to bleed them but with the rears start with the farthest one away from the master cylinder passenger side rear 99% of the time and work back to the master .
I think your whole problem is a rusted out line 94 thats a lot of road salt good luck

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1 Answer

1991 buick park avenue brake problem had busted brake line on drivers side rear brake so i fixed it then bleed the brakes.aint getting no brake fluid comming out of the passenger side rear so took of the...


Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

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When i step on the brake pedal it goes all the way down, what's wrong?


You have air in your brake lines. Try inspecting the system for brake fluid leaks. Replace any worn out brake pads, scored discs, leaking brake piston seals, etc.Now place a clear tube on the bleeder screws, one at a time , and bleed the air out of the system with the help of a friend to push the brake pedal. Start at the rear wheel cylinders and finish with the front calipers. Once the air is out of the lines the pedal should firm back up.

Oct 27, 2011 | 1995 Toyota Corolla

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I want to puul fuse for abs brakes.I broke the rear line and now I can't get any brake peddle.Loosened line where we hooked to brake and let it drain until fluid ran free.still no peddleWhen engine is...


these use by directional braking like the volvos have used for decades.that is the left rear brake works with the right front brake and right rear brake works with the left front brake.this is how the brake lines are connected to work for the braking system.so when you have a brake leak you will have to bleed the opposite brake to get the air out.this maybe your problem also if the abs system has air in it then it will have to be bleed of air.

Sep 04, 2011 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

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Line broke was leaking fluid then stopped leaking . no fluid comes out of abs unit on frame. is there a way to reset the abs unit to get fluid to rear brakes again


Replace the broken line then, you must bleed the entire brake system , each wheel works by itself on these cars, . Put the rearend in the air get the tires off and then find where the lines go into the ABS unit. Bleed fliud there first, then the individual wheel cylinders in the rear. after you bleed the system, check to make sure the brake system is balanced.

Oct 19, 2010 | Ford Ranger Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have no brake fluid leaving the master cylinder/ ABS for one of the four brake lines(Left Rear). I have pulled the brake line off of the master cylinder and applied the brakes... no fluid squirts out...


Your description does sound like M/C issue, but the amout of fluid is not much, that comes out...

It is brakes, so forget it and just replace the M/C. Also, pick up enough fluid to bleed all brakes and GET A M/C BLEED KIT, which are little hoses that screw in where brake lines attach to M/C, and route into the brake fluid reservoirs...Bleed until no air, then carefully remove one at a time, and install the brake line.

Now, do not allow M/C fluid to drop, or start all over again....

So, now continue bleeding at each wheel. At the end of it all, you want to do a "lift your **** off the seat" application of the brakes, as hard as you can. If the system passes this test, it usually will be good.

I presume that you have inspected each brake and found no faults...leaks, or anything.

Sep 05, 2010 | 1992 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

No brake fluid to the rear wheel cylinders


You'll need to start bleeding the brake system at the Master cylinder to determine where the problem lies.

The lines coming out of the master cylinder will need to be loosened & bled there, initially you can just do the back ones to identify the problem, but once fixed, the system will have to be bled from the Master cylinder first, then the farthest wheel from it, then next farthest, then next, until you do the drivers wheel last.

This method of bleeding the brakes prevents air from crossing from one line to another, causing air to be left in the system.

Back to bleeding the rear brakes first: As someone pumps up the brake pressure, making sure the resivoir stays full, with the cap on between bleeding, and have the person pressing the pedal to do these thngs.
1. Always move the pedal slowly, pressing and releasing.
2. Never release the pressure on the pedal after bleeding a brake, until the line is tightened, then release slowly to prevent air from getting into the fluid.

You should of course get fluid at the master cylinder when you bleed it (or just replace it), then you'll need to bleed the line at the right rear wheel (first) a few times to get fluid if it's been leaking, then the left rear wheel. If you get pressure but no fluid to the rear and the master cyliinder did have pressure released when you bled it, there is either a restriction in the line itself, or the porportioning valve could be damaged. (unusual for the valve to go bad actually, inspect lines for damage such as being pinched if you're getting pressure but no fluid.

Final test if it hasn't been resolved-remove lines at porportioning valve & make sure fluid is leaving/entering there as it should. If you find it defective, a good replacement can come from a salvage yard, or you can buy them new.

Brake fluid on the floorboard under the dash near the brake pedal=bad Master Cylinder.

good luck

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1 Answer

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Obviously you have a bunch of badly rusted lines. Better they failed while you were working on them rather than driving down the road! Carefully inspect the remainder of the lines and if in similar condition to the ones that failed, you need to replace them. When finished and system is tight, then bleed out system. (check it twice to ensure all air is gone.)

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