My speedometer needle is getting progressively worse, it is either telling me my current speed or just saying zero. a good bump on the glass was enough to unstick it before but now its progressively more stubborn. how do i fix this?
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Re: sticky/flat spedometer needle
Unscrew the knurled nut from the back of the speedometer, unscrew the other end from the transmission tailshaft, and feed the cable through the grommet in the firewall. Slide the cable out from the sheath and clean it off with carb cleaner or brake cleaner and spray the inside of the sheath with the same. Oil the cable with light oil like mineral oil, transmission fluid, or power steering fluid and put back in the sheath, then put the cable back in place. If it still doesn't work replace the cable with a new one. If that doesn't do it, take out the plastic speedometer drive gear from the transmission and check for wear. If it is worn, replace it. If that doesn't do it, push off the nearest cliff. Just kidding on that last comment. The first fix usually worked for me, and when it didn't the second would. I have only had to resort to the third fix one time, but I often fantasize about the fourth fix. If you found this helpful, or the least bit humorous, please don't forget to rate it.
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When you say the speedometer does not work, do you mean the needle is stuck at certain speed or is at zero all the time.. If it is at zero all the time, replace your meter. If it's stuck at certain speed, give it a knock with your fingers. And if that do not work, drill a pin hole with a fine drill just above the position where the needle is stuck and using a fine thin wire, push the needle back to zero position.
Both the speedometer and tachometer have a mechanical stop for the needles. The stop is located behind the display board.
The stop and needle contact point tend to develop a sticky residue which mechanically prevents the needle from rising above zero. At the behavior would indicate, the needles independently of one another, tend to stick at zero, yet intermittently, while driving will resume normal reading.
Disassembling the instrument cluster and carefully cleaning the stop and needle contact point with some solvent on a bent cotton swab or pipe cleaner should solve the problem. Just be careful not to break any of the delicate parts.
This problem and solution were first posted by users on the ClubLexus forums, but the brief discussion is difficult to locate.
If able, I will post a photo or short video of the problem and solution.
Your instrument is bad, The spiral coil for the needle is alraedy out ot calibration therefore it has been jumping around. Even they reset, it already been stretching. It needs a new one.
Don't waste mony for the reset.
It is probebly expensive from dealer plus labor. Just to check out the price,
You can get a used one from ebay for $85. However, you need to know how to replace it. Let me know it you need any help.
Meanwhile you can gauge your RPM to keep your speed under control on the long trip.For example: 2000 rpm is about 55 mph. Try to keep it below 3000 rpm so you don't get over speed limit.
I had a similar problem, it was my fuel and spedometer though. If you turn the car on and off a few times, they needles should go back to zero. The problem seems to be that they are physically worn and are getting stuck. I eventually had the instrument panel replaced for about $600 at a dealership because having to remember what speed it started at was too much of a pain. The car thinks that where ever it starts frmo is zero, so if I turned the car on and needle was stuck at 20mph then when it showed 65 I was really going 45. You may be able to live with those to gauges not resetting, I couldn't do it with the spedometer.
Let me guess, it goes up to about 30, stays there, and if you go faster (past what would be the halfway point of your speedometer) it starts dropping below 30. It sounds like the type of speedometer that uses two magnetic cores at 90 degrees to each other, and one has gone out.
If speedometer which is bouncing around, it is likely a bad ground near where the speed sensor wire harness (which connects the speed sensor to the rest of the "network") exits the transmission housing. It's at the very back of the transmission (you have a 4T60E trans) to the left of where the right side half-shaft leaves the trans housing. Just look for damaged wires. If none, replace the speed sensor for $50-60.
If it is the fuel gage, the sensor is probably not "zeroed"--it's reading wrong, too high, and if it were to start at true "empty", it would read right. Thus, the gage is always reading a little high (maybe a 1/8-1/10th of a tank too high?). This isn't a problem until to stop, start, or turn quickly and cause the fule to slosh around in the tank and starve the in-tank pickup which sends fuel to the engine.
If it is the fuel gage, you should simply put as much fuel in as you can and see if the needle goes far above "F". If it does, note how far it went and then practice filling the tank when the needle is that same distance above "E".