An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
An expert who has answered 200 questions.
Re: Oil pan replacement
No! Find the pan and remove all bolts holding it on. clean off old seal and silicone. After this keep the rubber parts to gasket and replace old gasket with a strip of RTV high temp silicone. (RED) any Q's just write.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Support the engine by the oil pan. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the engine mount assembly from the engine mount bracket support. Refer to Engine Mount Replacement .
Remove the auxiliary bracket.
Lower the engine to remove the drive belt.
Remove the drive belt.
In the past, I have used a thick piece of plywood that covers the oil pan then use a floor jack. The thick piece of plywood helps to spread the load. Pay attention, if you think the oil pan will cave, we will have to try something else. I have also used a piece of 2x4 on the lip of oil pan. Don't support the vehicle with bumper jack, use quality jack stands. There are safety issues working on a raised vehicle. Safety is your responsibility.
If you cave the oil pan, that's on you, I can't see anything from here.
yes the starter does have to be removed but also the engine mounts must be also as the engine must be raised about 10 " to get the pan out. if you do try this make sure you have very very sturdy jack stands for the engine to just a jack as the jack will lift it but wont maintain it long enough to safely remove the pan and reinstall it......good luck and be very carefull
Oil Pan, Ranger
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
Engine Lifting Sling
Disconnect battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 14-01.
Remove air cleaner outlet tube assembly by unclipping air cleaner clamp, loosening hose clamp at outlet tube, disconnecting intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor connectors, and crankcase ventilation hose.
Remove oil level indicator fan shroud retaining bolts. Position shroud over fan blade.
Remove radiator support bolts. Raise and secure radiator to front core support.
Remove engine mount nuts from studs.
Unclip 42-pin connector from bracket and position it aside.
Install suitable lifting brackets to left and right exhaust manifolds. Attach Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent) to lifting brackets. With a suitable lifting device raise engine approximately 50.8 mm (2 in). Install wood blocks between engine mounts and support brackets. Remove lifting device.
Raise vehicle on hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 00-02.
Drain the oil.
Remove transmission insulator retaining nuts and install a jack stand to extension housing. Raise transmission about 25.4-101.6mm (1-4 in) to gain access for removal of oil pan.
Remove transmission inspection cover.
Remove starter motor splash shield.
Remove starter motor retaining bolts and secure starter aside.
If equipped, disconnect and remove low oil level sensor.
NOTE: Oil pan fits tightly between transmission spacer plate and oil pump pickup tube. Use care when removing pan to avoid damaging either part. Remove oil pan bolts and lower pan.
Remove oil pump retaining bolts. Lower and twist pump to allow the oil pan to lower completely. Remove the pump and pan assembly from vehicle.
Remove and discard oil pan gasket.
Clean the oil pan mating surface.
NOTE: When using silicone rubber sealer, assembly should occur within 15 minutes after sealer application. After this time, the sealer may start to set up, and its sealing effectiveness could be reduced. Apply a 4.0-6.0 mm (1/5 inch) bead of Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or -BA (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESB-M4G92-A and ESE-M4G195-A) to junction of rear main bearing cap and cylinder block and to junction of front cover assembly and cylinder block. Position oil pan gasket to cylinder block and secure it with Gasket and Trim Adhesive D7AZ-19B508-B (or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M11P17-A and ESE-M2G52-A).
Install oil pump assembly and bolt. Tighten bolt to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
NOTE: If oil pan is replaced with a new pan you must tighten new pan to spec then loosen and retighten. Position oil pan to cylinder block and install oil pan to engine bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
Remove jack stand and install transmission insulator retaining nuts. Tighten nuts to 85-118 Nm (63-87 lb-ft).
NOTE: When replacing low oil level sensor, use a new metal gasket with a rubber O-ring. Install low oil level sensor. Tighten sensor to 20-34 Nm (15-25 lb-ft).
Install transmission inspection cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 10-14 Nm (7-10 lb-ft).
Install starter motor and bolts. Tighten bolts to 22-28 Nm (17-20 lb-ft).
Securely install starter motor splash shield.
Install lifting device and support engine. Remove wood blocks and lower engine back into original position. Remove lifting device and Rotunda Engine Lifting Sling 014-00036 (or equivalent). Remove lifting brackets from right and left exhaust manifolds.
Remove support straps, lower radiator into position, and install radiator bolts to core support. Position fan shroud and install the retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to 6-8 Nm (52-71 lb-in).
Install engine mount nuts and tighten to 98-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
Connect 42-pin connector to the bracket and install oil level indicator.
Install engine air cleaner outlet tube assembly. Connect IAT sensor, MAF sensor, and crankcase ventilation hose. Securely tighten the hose clamp.
NOTE: When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms can occur while powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. Vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn strategy. Connect battery ground cable.
Fill crankcase with correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.
oil leaking anywhere on the engine runs down and gets caught on the oil pan lip, builds up runs over and then looks to be an oil pan leak. so what you do is take the thing to a shop with a lift, like an oil change or muffler shop, and ask them to put it up on the lift so the rest of the engine can be easily examined for leaks. if there is no other place above the oil pan with a thin layer of oil on it, then most likely the pan gasket is leaking. before you buy the gasket take a good look at any suspension hardware which could obstruct easy removal of the oil pan. it may require lifting the engine up out of its mounts to get the gasket replaced, so simply snugging up the bolts holding the pan on and living with a small leak may be the way to go.
You need to hold the engine on a trolley jack by lifting it on the oil pan itself to then undo the engine mount. Once the mount is removed lower the jack, remove the remaining pan bolts and then remove the pan proper. Refitting is a matter of fitting the pan with some of the bolts, loosely, to then lift the engine a little with the jack to refit the mount, followed by fitting the remaining pan bolts and tightening. Its a matter of just doing things in a certain order but it is easy enough when you do that.
In most cases you have to use an engine hoist to lift the engine 3 or 4 inches to remove the oil pan. You have to remove the bolts on the engine mounts to lift the engine. you have to check for clearence at the rear of the engine and check engine wiring to be sure you don't damage wiring.