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Connecting wires of lucas alternator on opel kadett 1.4 1991 model, battery light stays on,replaced regulator, battery not drained.

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  • martha Hoffenbacker May 11, 2010

    I replaced the alternator and have had 3 battteries, then replaced the positive cord from the starter to the battery, there is a separate regulator could thes be the reason the alternator won't charge the battery,because a charge just wont stay and the AMP laight isn't always on?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: got an Opel Kadett 140

I seem to remember the 1.6 S model in the 80`s had a prob. with hotter termostats being installed due to wrong partnumbers or info;)

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SOURCE: Need a workshop manual or diagrams

most all your major auto parts stores have web sites, you may find what your looking for on there.

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

bunnydawg
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SOURCE: Torque setting on Opel kadett gsi back wheel bearings

Not even sure who makes those cars but this should hopefully help you

http://vsmus-origin.skf.com/Files/Brochures_in_PDF/457377.pdf

Please take a moment to rate this solution.. thanks

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: wrong reading on fuel gauge

Normally this problem is due to a bad sending unit. The sending unit is the actual device which transmits the level of fuel in the tank to your fuel gauge. The most common cause is a stuck float. The device works by means of a flotation device, often made of a petroleum resistant plastic encasing a foam or cork "float, " which is attached to a light weight metal arm. The arm moves as the float raises and lowers with the level of fuel. This arm connects to a switch which increases and decreases resistance in the circuit. If the arm is stuck or if the float is allowing fuel in it you will get an inaccurate reading. A "logged" float (one filled with fuel) usually reads below the level, whereas an arm which is sticking will read above the level. Now, if the gauge has been reading this way since the car was brand new, the other likely cause is that the needle may have been improperly placed on the gauge at the factory, or the windings in the gauge may be under or over wound causing the inaccurate reading. If you are mechanically inclined you may be able to replace the sending unit yourself. Keep in mind this can be a dangerous procedure for a first time mechanic as it may involve removing the fuel tank from the vehicle. Some vehicles offer access to the upper portion of the fuel tank via an opening located in the trunk under the trunk mat/carpet or under the back seat. If this is the case removal of the fuel tank is not normally necessary, but you will still be working with the fuel tank. If you are able to do this procedure in the vehicle, keep in mind you will first want to disconnect power to the fuel pump and sending unit. You can disconnect the negative battery cable, but I believe on an the kadette you will need to obtain a special cable from your local auto part supply to maintain power to the ECU or PCM to prevent damage to the computer or loss of programming. At the very least remove the fuel pump relay and disconnect any fuse/relay related to the dash gauges prior to beginning this operation. Also be sure to remove the fuse for any possible ignition source inside your vehicle, such as dome and courtesy lights. Keep cell phones away from the work area as well. If you use a "trouble light" be sure it is marked as safe for use near fuel fumes. Keep doors or windows of the vehicle open to allow vapors to escape so you don't suffer any ill effects and to further reduce ignition hazards. If you must remove the fuel tank, practice good safety. Do not be under the tank at any time. Be sure to remove it with very little fuel in it. Go slowly and be sure you don't break any wires or lines. It is a very involved process and may be best left to a certified mechanic or at least one who is very experienced. Keep me posted and let me know if this helps!

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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