1998 honda accord blue top vtec engine i have engine at tdc and the two arrows on the cam pullys facing each other but when turned over with the key it wont start and blows vapors out the in take are the two arrows on cam pullys ment to face each other or somewhere else?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
With Cam Caps loosened, FIRST loosen timing chain tensioner, press it in to loosen tension, Crank using ratchet to TDC (Top Dead Center on crank pully, (to keep from damage to pistons), align Exhaust Cam Timing Mark to mark on #1 Exhaust cam cover, then take up slack between Exhaust & Intake Cams (on top between the cams), Then align the Intake Cam to mark on #1 Cam Cap, "Now" loosen the 17mm bolt to tighten timing chain, rotate engine using rachet two times, reset TDC at the crank, and look at "Cam Timing Marks on both the Exhaust, and Intake Cams. If you did all this correctly the "Timing Marks" should be lined up so TDC,Exhaust, and Intake marks are all the same.
If you have a dohc engine like i have (2.3i) this is what i did. i could not find any markings on the covers to indicate tdc so i did what i've learned from an "old timer". Remove the no.1 spark plug (cam pully), take a big screwdriver and stick it in the hole until you feel the piston. Turn the engine clockwise (as the motor turn) always keep the screwdriver with one hand you will see and feel the screwdriver moving up or down depending on where the piston sits. When the scredriver start to come up, start turning slowly until you will feel the screwdriver will stop for a second and then it will dip down again. Turn the engine anti-clockwise until you will feel again that slight hesitation, remember it is all about feeling. Once you have that slight hesitation just before the screwdriver wants to move up or down that is your tdc on your sub assembly. Your cylinder head timing pully should have a dot on it. On the cover behind the pully is a cut out about 6mm, line up that dot with the mark and you should have the tdc for your cylinder head. Alternatively if you cannot find any markings do the following. Remove your tapped cover, turn the cam pully until your 2 front lobes of your cam faces upwards like a "v". If it is done correctly your timing belt will go over the pullies with ease.NB!!! It works for me (experience) if this sounds complicated i suggest that you get professional help.
there should be marks on crank pully and cam belt pully. rotate motor until crank pully timing mark is on zero.the cam belt pully should be lined up with its own mark.number one piston should be at the top of its stroke (top dead centre TDC) and number one valves should be shut. if the cam belt mark is not alined with its own mark remove the belt realine the marks and refit the belt
You have the wrong valve openong. To time an engine properly the Exhaust valve opens when you go past TDC, n ot the intake. The intake should be closing as you come up on TDC. Just pull the dizzy back out and give the engine one complete turn and put it back in. Hope this helps.
I am assuming you have the 3.3 litter v-6?I just did my own so I can offer you a few words of personal advice. Make sure, before you remove the crank shaft pulley, that the engine is at TDC. There is a pointer on the lower timing cover that should line up with the mark that is furthest to the left on the crank pulley (looking at it from the front of the truck). If you are replacing the timing belt for maintenance, not failure, make several marks on the cam pullies to the rear of the timing cover with a paint pen before removing the old belt and make sure that everything stays aligned to those marks upon reassembly. If this method is not an option, use the timing dimples on the back of the upper timing cover only as reference points for the cam pulleis (this is where I ran in to trouble). What is most important is that there are exactly 40 teeth on the belt between the marks on the cam pullies and 43 teeth between the right cam pully mark (right cam as you look at the engine from the front of the truck) and the mark on the crank pully. I used a Goodyear Belt that actually had marks that indicated the 40 and 43 tooth increments. Make sure you have the belt on the right directon, arrows to the front of the truck. Again it is very important that the crank pully remain at TDC (top dead center) during the entire process. Good luck, hope you get it the first time and not the second like me!!
Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer mustbe perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel orflex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP isat the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley arealigned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of thefront timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with thenotch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crankwhen viewed from the pulley end.