Help! Help! Help! our @#*@!#* new coil is getting hot just
Hello our @#*@!#* new coil is getting hot just like the original did,(which melted on bottom) just by leaving the key in the run postion...
NO fire from coil-->through coil wire-->to distributor. 12v coming from wiring harness on firewall to coil--->10v coming from other plug in coil to the module. We replaced and checked the module, pick up coil, and the coil itself, even the ignition switch on lower steering column!??? Fuel pump working fine soaking the plugs, Timing chain is turning as well as the bug in cap... trying not to buy a new computer??? $90.00 Please help, someone, anyone... spoke with over 30 good mechanics in 3 weeks now and none of them could figure this out or point us in a right direction. Thanks if you can help. Lee.
Re: Help! Help! Help! our @#*@!#* new coil is getting hot...
I believe there is something wrong inside the distributor, the cam may be worn inside the distributor, and your connection is not being broken, therefore, you have no spark. Make sure everything inside the distributor is working correctly, and that the cam is not worn.
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My best guess with such limited info. Is that when the new Wiring was done one or more wires were Set next to the Exhaust manifold. These get extremly hot. and will Melt thru the wires and then they short out on the metal. I would look for melted wires. and replace the melted area and Keep away from the hot metal of the engine.
check the timing of the ignition as hot exhaust is a good indication of retarded ignition timing. Fire coming out past the exhaust valves because the mixture ha been ignited too late. Have this check out fast as you run the risk of burnt valves . The timing should be about 12 degrees before TDC not 12 degrees after TDC. IT will be the cause of the engine getting hot as well.
Your prolem sounds as the classical Hot Coil problem with no solution. Next time when engine stalls, check for spark, touch the coil and the ignition module. If they feel hot to the touch (can't hold it), chances are there is too much resistance in the High Tension side of the ignintion circuit.
This means the circuit from the coil to the spark plugs has too much resistance. Since you already changed everything I have to ask a question: Is everything as original specs??
When I had this problem it resulted that the gap between the terminals of the distributor cap (new) and rotor where to big, This created great resistance which heated the coil and quit sending spark.
Perhaps there is something in the High Tension circuit which is out of original specs. Is the gap in spark plugs correct?
Try an old distibutor cap. Do the metal contacts in the spark plug cables touch the metal of the spark plug contact?
Does the metal contact from the cable touch the metal from the coil's contact? Are they dry?
Check things which can create a gap where electriciy has to "jump" to complete its way to the spark plug. These are the ones which cause the hot coil and hot module trouble.
Swapping Coils from one cylinder to another is a waste of time & does nothing The reason is that coils only break down when the vehicle is driven 20 miles or more & get hot. Doing that on a really hot day speeds up your time frame on getting the job done
You buy one new coil or more & you put one new coil in a cylinder, starting with any cyl that have a PO301 thru PO306 code
If that doesn't get rid of the bad coil ,you put the old one back & walk the new coil to the next cylinder
When you disconnected the battery which is not necessary as long as the ign key is of,you did something to the security system
I have no experience with that on your make car,I'm sorry If you don't get an answer here there is plenty on the internet to find & get the system reset.
If you have to, just walk in the open service bay door at a dealer & I'm sure any tech will help you for free
seems like perhaps that coils location is too close to the manifold which if the timing is not correct gets hotter than all get out ,like fire red hot see if you can add a heat shield under/ between the coil and manifold
HEI distributor and burning coils,it in you connection first make sure you install primary and secondary prorperly as it comes out of the cap , and inside the cap wire from modules dont make contact if you are burning its from primary circuit, this is the (B+) or (battery most likely), your secondary is your tach and that need to switch from postitive to negative for it to create spark obvously if tach was grounded or applied power you wont start,but there are times the condensor in the distributor does stays fixed and shorts out the coil (replace that condensor its for suppression) when the condensor is replaced run a fused direct wire at B+ (from ignition) run the vehicle and monitor the tach wire and check to see if that get hot
Well, some things need to be done systematically. Check for spark to make sure the coils are in fact working. Check for fuel to make sure you don't have a bum fuel pump and/or plugged filter. Ignition coils will get hot. The very fact that it melted may be the sign of a computer issue. Let me know what you find and then we can move forward.