Question about 1988 Ford F 250

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Brake vacume problem

How many inches of vacume should my vacume pump produce, and how many inches of vacume are required to operate the brake booster? This is on a 1988 ford f250 diesel.

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16 to 20 at idle and 20 to 22 at the most diesels also use a auxillary pump to get the vaccum because it has no trottle there for no vaccum, might want to check that also.

Posted on Apr 20, 2009

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Breke pedal is hard


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I am looking for a vacumn pump for that runs with booster brake it is what generates pressure to the brakes


the vacume is produced by the engine not a pump if there is no vacume getting to the booster either the hos is disconnected (broken) or something is wrong with the engine..first disconnect the hose going to the booster start the engine and verify if there is suction by blocking the hose with your finger shut off the engine if there was vacume and your pedal is hard your brake booster is probably bad

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Brake pedal went out on me going about 65 on the highway, was able to pump enough to get it under control. Brake company said brakes and diaphragn were fine, needed new master cylinder. Brakes went out...


it sounds like you've got an issue with the engine vacume line going to the booster. there's an in line one way check valve that keeps vacume in the booster in case of a loss of vacume, like if your truck stalled while driving. but there should always be vacume with the engine running. so check the vacume line going to the brake booster for kinks obstructions, and leaks.

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***Seek out professional help this vehicle is not safe to operate.***


Check the vacuum line going to the brake booster.

This is the big round chamber behind the master cylinder.

Hope this tip helps.

R/
David

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Step on brake paddle with engine off, then with foot on brake paddle start engine, brake paddle should go down a few inches, also check for vacum at power brake booster under hood ( sit in back of master cylindre ) if you have vacum there and brake paddle did not go dnow a few inches, replace brake booster.

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Brakes soft replaced mstr cyl , brake booster , pads , bled four times, people say it is a vacuum problem how is it a vac problem thanks luman


Hi mate, ok here are a few quick tests to perform. to check your brake booster is working (that is the large round item behind the brake m/c). get in your car with the engine off pump your brakes until they go hard (if system bled correctly and booster working fine you should notice a difference within three pumps) when pedal hard hold your foot down on it and start engine, the peddal should then depress up to an inch as the brake booster recieves vacume from the engine, this will happen instantly, the other thing is if it was a vacume problem the brakes would almost be impossible (ie. brake BOOSTER) to use so tis unlikely, any way more to the problem, the rear break drums, when you replaced the pads did you have the drums machined?? either way when replacing the rear drum pads on any vehicle you must have the drums machined and then order oversized pads to fit, because the cresent does not match otherwise and the sponge you feel in the pedal is the shoe flexing inside the drum so all surfaces can touch, or if that was all performed, may be a simple ajustment problem, assuming that you are not using any brake fluid, that wuld indicate still leaking, anyway hopefully have been of some assistance.

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Brakes


sense its a deisel i would go with the vacume pump, diesels don't put out any or very little vacume, if you don't have vacume than booster won't work hense hard peddel. when you say you let up on peddel and hit it again you got better break tells me it is not getting enought vacume to booster. i would go for the vacume pump.

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