Where is the compressor/clutch cycling switch

probably overcharged the system and now the high pressure switch is stopping the ac from working
did you fix the leak first

Depending on how much freon is in the system, it could be a faulty low pressure switch or a faulty clutch.
You would jumper the low pressure switch to eliminate it for a test.

YOU COULD HAVE OPEN OR SHORT IN THE BLACK YELLOW WIRE GOING TO AC COMPRESSOR CYCLING PRESSURE SWITCH. CHECK FOR A SHORT OR OPEN IN RED YELLOW WIRES AT THE AC PRESSURE CUTOFF SWITCH. USE VOLT METER AND CHECK FOR VOLTAGE AT BOTH SWITCHES. PROBLEM COULD BE IN THE EATC MODULE THAT SEND POWER TO PURPLE WIRE THAT FEEDS THE AC PRESSURE CUTOFF SWITCH AND AC CLUTCH CYCLING PRESSURE SWITCH THEN FEEDS THE AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH SOLENOID.

On this Chrysler product they have an A/C Transducer located on the high pressure hose. The switch has three wires. They also have a thermo sensor located at the evaporator case behind the glove compartment. These two things are the only ones thatA jump in the system is only removing protection the system has. So it will damage your compressor or hoses. Find the compressor follow the high hose to the high pressure switch (transducer) it has three wires. Check under the dash by the glove box and you will see a round platick lid on the case with two wires that is your thermostat (thermo sensor).
control the compressor.

The A/C clutch is controlled by the A/C cycling switch (19E561) and the A/C pressure cut-off switch, which are connected in series. The A/C cycling switch is mounted on the suction accumulator/drier (19C836), and the A/C pressure cut-off switch is mounted in the discharge line at the A/C condenser.

The A/C cycling switch closes when the pressure on the low side of the system reaches approximately 276-324 kPa (40-47 psi). The A/C cycling switch opens when the pressure drops to approximately 163-175 kPa (23.5-25.5 psi), disengaging the A/C clutch. In ambient temperatures below -1° C (30° F), the A/C cycling switch will not allow compressor operation because of low system pressures.

The A/C pressure cut-off switch is used to interrupt A/C clutch operation in the event of high system discharge pressures. The A/C pressure cut-off switch is a single-function switch that controls A/C clutch engagement. When compressor head pressures rise to approximately 2896 kPa (420 psi), the contacts open, disengaging the A/C clutch. When the pressures drop to approximately 1724 kPa (250 psi), the contacts close to allow A/C clutch operation.

This problem can be caused by low refrigerant charge. Check with a manifold gauge set and temperature pressure chart.
The cycling switch is replaceable and there is a Schrader valve on the accumulator port so you do not lose your system charge when replacing. It screws on/off. It is available at any auto parts store. It protects the compressor from low pressure which can be caused by a loss of refrigerant and subsequent lack of lubrication and prevents evaporator freeze up. Replace the switch. It is about $10. The high presure switch is about $25.

relay is tosted

If it engages when you bypass, it is not the magnetic clutch.
It could be a relay or the low pressure cycling switch. I would jumper the cycling pressure switch connector. If it runs, I would check to be sure you have enough pressure first with compressor running. If ok, change the cycling switch

The a/c clutch is attached to the front of your a/c compressor. It is the part that your serpentine belt runs on. It is either engaged or not based on the demand of the a/c system. It will not run if it senses low pressure in the freon supply line so you might try having the system checked for proper fill before replacing the clutch.

It is not normal. Consider seeing another auto technician before the car ac gets another thing bad in your lovely vehicle.

Cheers.

rate this.

the system has a definite leak and should be fixed then the system should be recharged there is a pressure switch that keeps the clutch from engaging when the system is low on freon which keeps from burning up the compressor

YOU CHECKED ALLOT BUT YOU DID NOT MENTION THE AC COMPRESSOR CYCLING SWITCH, DID YOU TEST IT? DOES THE COMPRESSOR RUN IF YOU JUMP IT, HAVE U CHECKED TO SEE IF THE COMPRESSOR TERMINAL HAS 12 VOLTS AND GROUND WHEN TURNED ON? THE CYCLING SWITCH AND THE COMPRESSOR CLUTCH ARE ALMOST ALWAYS THE PROBLEM WHEN THE SYSTEM IS CHARGED BUT THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT RUN.