I followed the diagram to install the stat, ran car for 20 min after it got to normal operating temp, top hose was hot, bottom cold. also replaced radiator cap. took cap off and let it run for another 20 min, saw no circulation. took out stat, ran it again with cap off, saw great circulation
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Re: responce for clarification
You'll only see good circulation when it's at operating temperature & hot enough for thermostat to open, allowing coolant to flow through the system. Hope you had heater on (not defrost) while you were letting it run/circulate. I usually wait for rad fan to come on 2 or 3 times, before I put cap back on. Rad fan comes on to cool what just came out of engine when thermostat opened, so when you see good flow, you'll probably see fan come on shortly after.
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My first question is - are both radiator hoses hot too ? I would want to know if the engine is reaching normal temp or not. The engine coolant needs to be over 100 degrees to make heat for the heater.
You could flush the heater core by using pressure to push water from one heater hose to the other. You could have air pockets in the cooling system which would cause both problems you mentioned.
The heater core would not cause you needing a quart or two of coolant to fill it up. And the water pump would not affect this either. Something is blocking the system, it could be something in the radiator or something in one of the hoses. You might try taking the top hose off and filling the engine with the radiator blocked off. Or fill the radiator with the engine blocked.
car shuts off when it gets to normal operating range. it takes 10-15 minutes to reach normal range. causes: low coolant, failing coolant tempurature sensor, air in water pump, check the coolant temp. sensor. if it is bad it will send wrong info to engine when hot, and shut it down. ITS WORTH A TRY!! good-day!
Did you recheck the water level at the radiator filler cap after the engine was at normal temperature (ie after about 15 mins idling with heater control on full and fan on Low) because it sounds like there is an air lock in the system. Air lock should clear after thermostat starts to open. This is indicated by the top radiator hose becoming hot to touch.
its fairly easy (don't do this while hot) temp is around 180-200* you want to place a bucket or drain pan under the the front where the drain chock is located open so that you drain about 1-1.5 gal's out of the radiator (it would be good to have some cat litter handy and clean up right away so that shoud you have a dog his/she is not poisened follow the top radiator hose to the thermostat and remove the 2 bolts on each side "if lucky you have the rubber gasket to seal the housing back up. replace the thermo with new unit (some aftermarket parts companys give you a cheeze rubber gasket its best to reuse the old rubber gasket in this case) locate temp sensor unscrew after disconecting wire reconect wire after installing sensor refill antifreeze with fresh 50/50 mix start car or van let run with presser cap off so that the system can bleed out the air out of the system then top off coolent after engine has reached operating tempature continue checking with cap off. turn hearter control to max hot add fluid to overflow tank replace cap to the hot mark drive couple times around the block and check tank let car/van sit for a few minute's to cool down check tank should read full or needs fluid add as needed check for leakswhen done clean drive
There Must Be Any Bleeding Screw On Any Hose Of Coolant, After adding Coolant Keep Open that Bleeding Screw For A 15min With Idle Speed It Will Help To Remove Air From Cooling system., Then Check Temp Sensor OF Radiator That May Got Problem , Only Tow Things Could Be The Problem. Thanks
Ok, I know you said that you replaced the t-stat, however they do have a 20-30% fail rate.
Lets assume that your t-stat is functioning properly (if it is you should see the temp gauge fluxuate when the engine reaches its hottest operating temp, the t-stat will open and the needle will drop, Also your car will overheat or blow luke warm air if your tstat is bad.)
If you have blockage in your coolant lines your system will build excessive back pressure depending on the line (coolant system flush fixes this issue)
and the final thing to factor in is that the coolant system on any vehicle is always under extreem pressure when the coolant is hot and the engine is running, your return hose from the radiator will have massive pressure in it if the thermostat is closed, and it should relieve itself some when the t-stat opens. Your low end hose (engine to radiator return) will have low to mid pressure at all times because the only thing building pressure on this hose is the pump trying to cycle the water, heat is not a big factor with this hose compaired to the top end hose. Thanks for using fixya.com