a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!
Tools: 1. C-Clamp 2. Flat Head Screwdriver 3. Jack Stand Set 4. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 5. Combination Wrench Set 6. Tire Iron 7. Socket Set 8. 1/4 in. Drive Torque Wrench 9. Dial Indicator
Supplies: 1. Brake Cleaner 2. Brake Lubricant
Steps: Step 1 Secure your vehicle on a level surface, making sure your car will not roll or lean too much when jacked up. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 Remove the cap from the brake master cylinder. Using a turkey baster, remove a quarter of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Lift up the front of your vehicle using a floor jack. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.
Step 4 Remove the front wheels by removing the lugs nuts that are holding them on. To do this you will need to find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn them counter clockwise. If your vehicle is equipped with hub caps (plastic covers over the wheels), these will need to be removed to access the lug nuts. o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle. o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.
Step 5 Inspect the brake rotors for scoring, grooves, cracks and discoloration.
Step 6 Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts.
Step 7 Slide the brake caliper off of the brake rotor. o Tip: If the brake rotors are worn and there is a big lip preventing the brake caliper from sliding off easily, gently pry one pad back into the brake caliper to clear the lip and make removal easier.
Step 8 Support the brake caliper up and away from the working area. Make sure you do not kink or pinch any brake lines. Do not disconnect the brake line. o Tip: Use a bungee cord to secure the brake caliper out of the way and hang it on the suspension spring.
Step 9 Remove the brake pads from brake caliper.
Step 10 Compress caliper piston using a C-clamp.
Step 11 Install the new brake pads in the brake caliper.
Step 12 Reinstall the brake caliper.
Step 13 Torque the brake caliper mounting bolts to manufacturer’s specifications. Repeat for other side.
Step 14 Install wheels and torque to manufacturer’s specifications.
Step 15 Refill the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder and reinstall the cap.
Step 16 Road test vehicle, break in new pads.
o Tip: To break in pads and rotors refer to manufacturers recommendations. Some companies have different procedures for pad and rotor break in.
When you said, the bleed valve had to be loosed before the caliper would release, (caliper is already replaced), then we know there was a lot of preasure in the braking lines backed up some where, and every time the brakes are applied to compress the the caliper to stop your truck, the preasure would not release, This Is a clear indication that the Flexible Rubber Brake Hose attached to the caliper is backed up, clogged, kinked, etc.. That would be the next item in the brake system to check. Its Bottom Up Disagnostics... When the hose is off try to slide a strong piece of wire (metal clothes hanger) through the hose..
SOLUTION: Replace Rubber Brake Line's, on both sides. I reccomend Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line.
Here is a video that kinda shows corrosion in a rubber hose. Also check out other videos on youtube.
jack up front, remover tire, remove bolts on backside of caliper, slide caliper off bracket, remove old pads (paying attention to how they fit in), remove cap on master cylinder under hood, use a caliper tool to push the piton back in, replace pads, put it all back together again....
caliper is sticking or pads are sticking ,proportioning valve with vehicle jacked up and supported and wheel removed inspect pads and rotor for damage excessive wear if good- turn hub/rotor by hand have someone assist u by stepping on brake observe brake caliper stop then release brake piston should release slightly from pad try turn hub again w/out touching brake if stuck in place replace and caliper released replace pads if caliper still clamped remove caliper and inspect for leak or damage compress caliper and try brake again if does if sticks again replace caliper
Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car, make sure the car is in gear. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.
Open the hood of your car. Locate the master cylinder and brake fluid container. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.
Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.
Use the socket wrench to remove the lower caliper bolt from the back of the caliper. Rotate the caliper up.
Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
Install the new Brake Pads
Insert the pads into the caliper.
Place a large C-clamp on the body of the caliper and slowly tighten the clamp evenly. Compress the piston until it is flush with the caliper.
Lower the caliper and use the socket wrench to attach the lower caliper bolt. Tighten the bolt to 16 to 24 ft. lbs. (22 to 32 Nm).
Replace the tire wheel assembly tire. Lower the car to the ground. Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads.
Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.
Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.
Good morning, I have several questions that can lead you to a solution. 1) How many miles on the front brake pads sense they have been replaced? 2) How deeply grooved are the front brake rotors? 3) does the front brakes make a scratching or a grinding sound when the brakes are applied?
This is where I'm heading with these questions:
The front brake pads are a biscuit of break friction material applied to a steel plate. As the braking material wears off the rotor may also wear with grooves and in the case of replacing pads without turning the rotor can present a ledge on the rotor that the plate of the brake pad can come it contact with and restrict the friction material from coming in contact with the rotor and be an effective breaking force.
Also if the pads have been replaced and the piston has become cocked in the caliper it will be jammed in the piston bore and not be free to extend and exert a pinching force on the rotor.
I suspect that if the fluid is not restricted from reaching the caliper there is a mechanical restriction in the system. Not much else to consider but those two things.
Glad to be of assistance - please rate the solution - I can learn from you. Thank you