Question about 2004 Infiniti I35

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Put new rear rotors and pads on my 2002 I35 Infinity, now have very weak pedal , have to pump the brakes in order to stop, doesn't maintain pressure.

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Doesn't sound like the brake lines were bled properly. Many times after pad and rotor installation if the lines are bled correctly you will have to pump them initially after the repair for a couple of minutes until the pressure is built back up. Also check the master cylinder and make sure fluid level is ok.

Posted on May 05, 2009


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1 Answer

2002 sable weak brakes but fluid level not low

There is a proper way to test this problem, and not something you can do yourself. The pressure of a push on the brake pedal can be measured with a pressure gauge and a "T" fitting. This would show if the Master Cylinder is generating proper pressure to the brake lines.

A test as above would save you from replacing a Master Cylinder needlessly, but will cost to test. There are other things to look for such as worn brake pads and glazed pads and bad rotors. The ABS box should Default with a warning should it have a problem.

You can have a problem with sticking calipers, which keep both sides of the rotor from being squeezed by the pads. When this occurs, one pad can be completely destroyed because it is doing all the work. It also means 50% of the braking force is gone on each wheel.

Jan 30, 2014 | 2002 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

I put new brakes in my saturn. i put new front calipers,rotors and pads and power bleed front only. i also put new brake pads in rear but did not replace drums.after all that i can't get a hard brake...

try adjusting the rear brake shoes but.....spin the rear wheels first is u get the feeling of the shoes grabbing then releasing ( the tire gets loose then tight as u rotate it) u will need to have the drums cut on a brake lathe or replaced...when u have this done , then adjust the rear shoes until u get a slight drag on the rear wheels..go pump the brake pedal to seat the shoes if the wheel spins free adjust the shoes more an repeat until they have a slight drag after pumping the brake pedal

Jul 16, 2011 | 1999 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I changed the front rotors and brake pads once i was done i started the truck and the brake pedal went to he floor and the dash ifo said to service brakes. since than the brakes have been hard and...

It went to the floor because you had to compressed the piston to get it over the new pads and rotors. The brakes need to be pumped up after you replace pads in order for the pistons to come back in contact with the new pads and take up the gap. Pushing the pedal to the floor is never a good idea and a good way to ruin a master cylinder in older vehicles.

As far as the pulsation, have the rotors turned. Make sure the wheels are torqued to the proper spec when you are done (140 lb/ft). Pump up the pedal when you are done and you should have smooth braking.

Oct 10, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab

1 Answer

Woking on my 2002 Dodge one ton dually 2 wheel drive. Brake pads had gotten really worn, to the metal and damaged the rotors. As I haven't used the truck much I put off the repairs. Recnelty I repalaced...

It sounds like you have a weak master cylinder.
If there is no air in the system or you cant get the air out it is the master cylinder i would do next. Let me know if you need instructsions on replacemint or bench bleeding of the new part!

Jul 14, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 Truck

1 Answer

Next to no Brakes

No, but could be pad knock back which can be caused by run out of the rotors. This can happen if your pads have worn down too far in the past. I'd advise you to have the rotors ground (on the car) and new pads fitted. The fronts are critical but have the rears checked for run out too. Sometimes new seals in the calipers can help hold the pads against the rotors.This will improve the loss of pedal condition.

Mar 18, 2010 | 1999 Ford Escort

4 Answers

Had the rotors and Pads replaced on the rear of my 2002 Explorer when I apply the brakes the pedal feels like it is pumping up and down and the wheels feel like they're out of balance.

you need to turn or replace your rotors,thats why your pedal is doing that, they should have done that when they put you pads on,I hope this helps you and please rate this,

Dec 28, 2009 | 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

3 Answers

Brake to the floor in order to stop. they are new

make sure the rear shoes are manually adjusted up properly ,then is still no good renew the master cylinder because the seal between the front and rear chambers could have gone ,but i do feel that you should manually adjust the rear brakes up properly,slacken handbrake cable before you do this though

Dec 10, 2009 | 1995 Toyota Camry

2 Answers

97 ford e350 brake pedal goes to the floor...

are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?

Sep 11, 2008 | 2002 Ford E350

1 Answer

How to replace the rear disc on my b5 1.8t

You'll need a metric wrench set, ratchet, 8mm Allen bit, torque wrench, 17mm socket (for the lugs), and likely a breaker bar, a large screwdriver and a rubber mallet.

Remove the wheel first. Then look at the caliper - it's made of two pieces bolted together. At the top and bottom, see those black accordion-looking boots? On the backside of those are two bolts that must be removed. Once they're off, you can pry the center section of the caliper (which holds the pads) off, levering the screwdriver against the carrier. Don't let it hang by the e-brake cable or fluid line - hang it with a wire hanger, bungee cord, or let it sit on something.

Then, the remaining part of the caliper that is still bolted up (called the carrier) has to be removed. For this, you'll need to remove two bolts on the rear side that bolt it to the hub. To take them out, you need an 8mm male Allen bit. Once they're out, the carrier comes off, and the rotor will come right off (you may have to hit it with a rubber mallet).

Be sure to replace your pads when you replace the rotors though - don't reuse old pads with new rotors. To change the rear pads, just pull them off the caliper. You'll have to borrow, buy, or rent a piston retracting tool to get the caliper piston back in far enough to allow a new set of pads to seat on either side of the rotor. The front calipers can be compressed with a C-clamp, but the rears are a screw-in type that require a screw-in tool (for lack of a better term). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood so that the piston can be screwed back in without having to fight the pressure from the fluid in the lines. Screw the piston back in, seat the new pads (put some anti-squeal grease on the back sides of them), and after the new rotor is on and the carrier is bolted back up, load the caliper with the new pads and remount it to the carrier. Tighten the brake fluid cap now, before pushing the brake pedal down.

Last step is to bolt your wheel back on - use a torque wrench and torque to 90 ft-lbs using a skip-one method to ensure even torque across the face of the hub. Pump up the brake pedal several times to be sure you have pedal pressure that you can rely on.

Bed the pads in by getting the car up around 30mph and stopping it with solid, firm, consistent force on the pedal - don't push the pedal farther toward the floor the slower you go - keep the pedal pressure even until you stop. Do this five or six times and you should be good to go.

Jul 15, 2008 | 1999 Audi A4

1 Answer

300zx front brakes.

Nothing more special than a basic metric socket set, a good size C-clamp, and maybe a screwdriver. Remove the wheel and unbolt the caliper from the hub (two bolts on the backside, I believe 17mm). Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Slide the caliper off the rotor and remove the outer pad. Use the C-clamp against the inner pad to compress the pistons back into the caliper to provide clearance for the new, thicker pads to clear the rotor. Do the same for the outer pistons. Install the new pads, remount the caliper, and put the wheel back on. Replace the fluid cap, pump up the brake pedal for pressure, then take it out and bed the pads in with several back to back stops from 30mph with steady, even pressure on the pedal. You'll be good to go at that point.

Jun 08, 2008 | 1991 Nissan 300ZX

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