Question about 1987 Mazda B-Series

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Correct removal of '87 'mazda 2.6 cylinder head

How do I remove the head from this engine?

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The procedure is similar to the one in pictures here for an honda engine: hondaswap.

You unplug sparks, remove the air intake assembly, exhaust manifold and hoses, remove plastic cover, undo first set of screw to remove valve train, and remove head.
After re fitting you will need to use a a torque wrench following head bolts torque specs.

To find out torque specifications and diagram for your vehicle, register here and download the repair manual.

This can also be found on the service manual with step by step pictures.

1987-1993 Mazda B2600 - Haynes Paper Repair Manual

Mazda Pickup Truck Repair Manuals: Chilton & Haynes

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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  • Master
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Since I cannot find the exact pictures of your model I am giving you a link which will give different pictures showing the step by step procedure of dismantling the engine head. I feel that the procedure are more or less similar.

Visit this link to get the pictures : http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-articles/how-change-head-gasket-lots-pics-71528/


I hope this will solve your issue.

Good Luck.

If my solution proves useful please accept it.

Regards
Arjun

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2000 mazda protege correct timing mark alignment


Presuming the timing belt has not been removed or has skipped.
If the belt is removed or skipped this is an interference engine, valves and or pistons could be damaged by turning crankshaft, seek professional help.
Turn crankshaft clockwise and align timing marks (see jpg).
Face the marks (I) and (E) of the camshaft straight up, then align the timing marks with the horizontal surface on the cylinder head.
Pulley boss position pin on the crankshaft should be facing straight up.
25327211-bog4asmiohngydsbtkv4ivhw-1-0.jpg
This is only the beginning of an involved process, 3 pages in shop manual. I recommend getting a manual, many available on line. one typical Mazda 323 Protege Repair Manual 1990 2003
insure that the manual you get has info on your engine.

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1 Answer

Help me to remove my cylinder head of my mazda 2005 drifter b250


  • Hi Ronald, Get ready for a lot of work! The first thing is to clean the engine of all dirt and contaminants that may cause damage when the head id removed. When the engine is cold disconnect the battery. Remove the air cleaner ducting and housing and then drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block. The coolant drain plug on the engine block sometimes becomes corroded so be careful and if it is too tight leave it. Get yourself some masking tape and mark all the relevant electrical connections before removing them. If your engine is the type with timing gears turn it to Top Dead Center (TDC) and once set leave it. If it has a timing belt remove the front plastic timing cover and look for and identify the match marks for valve timing. If you can't see them make your own marking the TDC positions of the camshaft in relation to the cylinder head, (This may save you a lot of pain and suffering later) If the engine is diesel, identify or match mark the timing gear in relation to Crank Shaft and Cam Shaft. Remember the body of the injector pump when turned is also an adjustment so match mark the pump body to the engine. With a diesel, mark the pipes and make a sketch of where each pipe fits onto the distributor type pump. (Do not bend the pipes) If it's a petrol engine mark the position of each of the HT plug leads, remove the distributor cap and sketch the position of the rotor arm in relation to the cap. (In other words note which way it's facing. Remove the cap and the plug leads. mark all vacuum tubes for later reinstatement before disconnecting. Disconnect all electrical connections (Which you should have marked) Remove the tappet cover and clean the oil, which should be correctly taken care of. If the engine has a timing belt, loosen the tensioner bearing to its maximum adjustment and making sure that the timing marks are still aligned remove the belt. If it has a belt it will usually have overhead cam. If gears it will likely have a rocker shaft assembly and push rod operated valves. Begin to loosen these from the front and back working in to the center of the head. Loosen each bolt evenly, one turn at a time until the whole cam or rocker assembly is loose and can be removed. Keep in mind that up until this point certain valves will be open and under tension Once removed the the valves will then be fully closed. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, alternately loosening from each end working towards the center. Remove the radiator cooling hoses and ensure that bypass hoses are removed too. Make sketches of the fitting positions before removal. Closely inspect all areas where bolts and brackets may impede the removal, and if any remain, remove them. Careful inspection and recording will help you greatly during assembly. You are now ready to remove the cylinder head. Begin at the front of the engine by loosening the first bolt of the cylinder head and then go to the rear and loosen the bolt diagonally opposite. Follow the same loosening sequence working towards the center until all bolts are loosened. and then remove them. The cylinder head can now be removed. In the case of the engine being diesel powered, look at the outer edge of the gasket where you should see an indicator of the gasket thickness. This is very important when buying the replacement gasket (never reuse an old gasket) The thickness is in relation to the piston protrusion above the engine block and if the replacement is too thin, the valves will collide with the pistons during operation (which ain't very good for pistons or valves!) If the gasket is too thick the compression will not be achieved for maximum performance. I suggest that when the head is removed, after cleaning it should be taken to an engineering company for checking and if warped it should be lightly skimmed. The tightening sequence is opposite to removal, meaning begin at the center and work outwards. This applies to the cylinder head, manifolds and tappet cover. In fact not a bad idea for everything you apply a spanner or wrench to. Ps. Why do you want to take the head off? Just asking. Regards John

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Misfire on cylinder #1 of my 2004 Mazda Tribute. New plugs, wires and fuel injectors. Test shows low compression of 35 compared to the #2 cylinder of 180


Can't tell you exactly what the problem is, but it is internal. Cylinder head will have to be removed to see exactly what the problem is.

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I need troque setting for cylinder head bolts for Madza MX3


zjlimited_1139.jpg

Fig. 1: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence for all 4-cylinder engines


1. Clean the cylinder head bolts and the threads in the block. Make sure the bolts turn freely in the block.

2. Install a new head gasket on the engine block. Make sure the camshaft sprocket timing marks are still aligned, as set during the removal procedure. Install the cylinder head.

3. Lubricate the bolt threads and seat surfaces with clean engine oil and install them. Torque the bolts in 2-3 steps to 56-60 ft. lbs. (75-81 Nm) in the proper sequence.

Hope helps.

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I have a 1196 mazda 323 Astina and I am having problems with it stopping while driving? When it is cold it starts again but keeps stopping when the engine gets hot? do you have any suggestions as to what...


sounds like you have a blown head gasket and possibly warped cylinder head. the reason it happens while its hot is because metal expands under heat and this makes the cylinder head leak even more and you eventually loose compression inside your cylinders and this is why the car stops. a compression test will confirm this and there may be other damage that cant be seen until the head is removed from the engine and inspected by a machine or engine shop.

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1 Answer

Correct pressure for torque the head of mazda pickup 1998


Since you didn't say which engine you have, I've pulled torque specs for 3 different engines. Also, since I can't include a diagram showing the relative locations of the numbered head-bolt locations, it would be a good idea for you to purchase a vehicle specific repair guide that will show this info.


Take particular note about the TTY (Torque to Yield) bolts used on 2 of the 3 engines shown. It is said that new head bolts MUST BE USED when head is replaced or re-installed to obtain the proper torque.



B2500 4 Cylinder

Torque sequence: --------- ' 10 6 2 4 8 ' front ' ' ' 7 3 1 5 9 ' -----------Step 1: torque in sequence to 51 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque again in sequence to 51 Ft/Lbs Step 3: final tighten all bolts an additional 90 to 100 degrees recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) that permanently stretch during the initial installation. New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is replaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.







B3000 3.0 6 Cylinder

Torque sequence ---------- ' 6 4 2 8 ' ' ' ' 5 1 3 7 ' ---------- Step 1: torque to 59 Ft/Lbs Step 2: loosen in sequence (1) full turn Step 3: torque to 41 Ft/Lbs Step 4: torque to 73 Ft/Lbs









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Torque sequence --------- ' 5 1 3 7 ' ' ' ' 6 4 2 8 ' --------- Step 1: torque cylinder head bolts in sequence to 26 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque cylinder head bolts to 56 Ft/Lbs Step 3: turn cylinder head bolts in sequence an additional 90-degrees recheck final torque in sequence *** CAUTION ***engine uses Torque To Yield head bolts (TTY) that permanently stretch during the initial installation. New head bolts must be used when cylinder head is replaced or re-installed to obtain proper torque.


Good luck with this job!

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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