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Re: timimg for a 1990 nissan maxima
If your belt came with marks, then they should match the marks that are on the sprockets and block, if not, you must have the cam marks align with those on the engine. If you're in doubt about the exact spot, lay a tooth pick across the sprockets so that you can check alignment to the block.
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Remove the engine under covers and drain engine coolant from the radiator; be careful not to allow coolant to contact drive belts.
Remove the front right side wheel and tire assembly. Remove the engine side cover.
Remove the drive belts from the engine.
Rotate the crankshaft to position the No. 1 cylinder at the TDC of it's compression stroke.
Remove the upper radiator hose and the water inlet hose. Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the idler bracket of the compressor drive belt.
Remove the crankshaft damper. It may be necessary to use a puller to remove the crankshaft damper from the crankshaft.
Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.
Make sure the punch marks on the camshaft sprockets align with the punch marks on the rear timing belt cover and the punch mark on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the punch mark on the oil pump.
Fig. 1: Line up the punchmarks on the sprockets with the marks on the rear timing belt cover before removal of the belt
Loosen the timing belt idler pulley bolt. Using a hexagon wrench, rotate the idler pulley to release it's tension and remove the timing belt.
Fig. 2: After the timing marks are lined up, loosen the tensioner and remove the belt
Be careful not to bend the new belt installing it. Timing belts are designed to flex only the way they turn around the pulleys. To install: After removing timing belt, do not rotate crankshaft and camshaft separately, because valves will hit piston heads.
Confirm that No. 1 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. Install tensioner and tensioner spring. If stud is removed apply locking sealant to threads before installing.
Fig. 3: Make sure the aligning marks are correct before installing the timing belt onto the sprockets
Swing tensioner fully clockwise with hexagon wrench and temporarily tighten locknut.
Fig. 4: The tensioner uses a spring to aid in tensioning the timing belt. Be sure to use locking sealant when replacing the stud.
Set timing belt, align the arrow on the timing belt forward. Align the white lines on the timing belt with the punch marks on all 3 pulleys.
There are 133 total timing belt teeth. If timing belt is installed correctly there will be 40 teeth between left and right camshaft sprocket timing marks. There will be 43 teeth between left camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket timing marks
6 Cylinder petrol: Align crank(C) timing notch mark (1) to oil pump mark. Align cam pulley(L+R) marks(3) to cylinder head marks The cam belt has 3 marks, 2 lines and one mark that is actually a row of dots. Align the dots to the crank pulley groove mark(2) and align the other 2 lines to the cam pulley marks. Using a clothes peg to hold the belt to the cam pulleys works wonders to keep it in place while fitting. Please note the arrows on the belt and have them point in the direction of rotation - right to left side of engine W - water pump pulley I - Idler pulley T - Tensioner pulley.
If for some reason you need to realign the cams on each bank : Standing
in front of the car and starting from YOUR left , looking at the cams
you should see RE, RI, LI, LE on each of the camshafts.(R for right
bank, L for left bank, I for intake and E for exhaust) Right bank
camshafts are marked with one dot, left bank with 2 dots on the shaft
itself. To align the camshafts to each other each cam shaft gear has a
mark on it. Draw an imaginary line between the centre of the camshaft
and the centre of the pulley. The alignment mark should be between the
two along this imaginary line. The result will be that RI an RE will be
at the top of each gear. The same with the left bank.
Locate and carefully remove the access plug from the upper portion of the timing cover.
WARNING When turning the engine over by hand, ALWAYS rotate the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation, otherwise the timing belt might jump one or more teeth due to the configuration of the belt tensioner.
Turn the engine CLOCKWISE (in the normal direction of rotation) to set the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder by aligning the O mark on the belt cover with the O mark on the crankshaft pulley.
NOTE: If no timing mark is visible through the access cover when the O marks on the crank pulley and cover are aligned, the engine may be on No. 1 exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke (the camshaft is 180°away from No. 1 TDC). If so, the crankshaft must be rotated one full turn to bring the No. 1 piston back to the top and the camshaft around to close the No. 1 intake and exhaust valves.
With the O marks aligned, look through the access hole in the cover to confirm that the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket aligns with the pointer on the inner belt cover. If the belt timing is incorrect, the timing cover and belt must be removed for further inspection, possible replacement and correct installation. For more details, please refer to Section 3 of this manual.
get the #1 piston top dead center, then line up the camshaft gear and the crank gear to line up with the timing marks on the engine after you find those marks slip the belt on making sure all the timing marks havent changed then check to see if the tensioner for the belt is set with the proper tension then check to see if the belt isnt slipping remember it will be spinnig at high RPMS
camshaft timing mark at 12 o"clock, align cam shaft timing mark to ( v ) cut on top of back timing cover, crank shaft gear align 12 o'clock key way up, there will be a mark on the outer edge of gear, on housing at 12 o'clock there will be the timing mark align that mark to crank gear , install belt and your done.Good luck.
It is recommended that the timing belt be replaced periodically to
assure correct engine performance. Because of their composition, timing
belts wear over a period of time and mileage. To avoid vehicle break
down and possible engine damage, the manufacturer recommends timing
belt replacement at 60,000 miles.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION1.8L Engine See Figures 1, 2 and 3
If possible, position the engine so the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the timing belt covers.
Remove the timing (outer) belt tensioner and remove the outer timing belt.
Remove the outer crankshaft sprocket and flange.
Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt.
Fig. 1: Silent shaft belt timing marks-1.8L engine
Fig. 2: Checking the silent shafts for proper positioning
Fig. 3: Timing belt timing mark alignment-1.8L engine
Align the timing marks of the silent shaft sprockets and the
crankshaft sprocket with the timing marks on the front case. Wrap the
timing belt around the sprockets so there is no slack in the upper span
of the belt and the timing marks are still aligned.
Install the tensioner pulley and move the pulley by hand so the long side of the belt deflects about
Hold the pulley tightly so the pulley cannot rotate when the bolt
is tigthened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and recheck the
Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward the water pump and
tighten the bolts. Place the upper end of the spring against the water
Align the timing marks of the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump
sprockets with their corresponding marks on the front case or rear
There is a possibility to align all timing marks and have the oil
pump sprocket and silent shaft out of time, causing an engine vibration
during operation. If the following step is not followed exactly, there
is a 50 percent chance that the silent shaft alignment will be 180
Before installing the timing belt, ensure that the left side
(rear) silent shaft (oil pump sprocket) is in the correct position as
Remove the plug from the rear side of the block and insert a tool with shaft diameter of 0.31 in. (8mm) into the hole.
With the timing marks still aligned, the shaft of the tool must
be able to go in at least 2 1/2 in. If the tool can only go in about 1
in., the shaft is not in the correct orientation and will cause a
vibration during engine operation. Remove the tool from the hole and
turn the oil pump sprocket 1 complete revolution. Realign the timing
marks and insert the tool. The shaft of the tool must go in at least 2
Recheck and realign the timing mark.
Leave the tool in place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket,
then camshaft sprocket, in that order. While doing so, make sure there
is no slack between the sprocket except where the tensioner is
Recheck the timing marks' alignment. If all are aligned, loosen
the tensioner mounting bolt and allow the tensioner to apply tension to
Remove the tool that is holding the silent shaft and rotate the
crankshaft a distance equal to 2 teeth on the camshaft sprocket. This
will allow the tensioner to automatically apply the proper tension on
the belt. Do not manually overtigthen the belt or it will howl.
Tigthen the lower mounting bolt first, then the upper spacer bolt.
To verify correct belt tension, check that the deflection at the longest span of the belt is about
Install the timing belt covers and all related items.
Connect the negative battery cable.
2.0L Engine 1990-94 VEHICLES See Figures 4, 5, 6 and 7
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the timing belt upper and lower covers.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks so No.
1 piston will be at TDC of the compression stroke. At this time the
timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and the upper surface of the
cylinder head should coincide, and the dowel pin of the camshaft
sprocket should be at the upper side.
Always rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction. Make a mark
on the back of the timing belt indicating the direction of rotation so
it may be reassembled in the same direction if it is to be reused.
Remove the auto tensioner and remove the outermost timing belt.
Fig. 4: Exploded view of the timing belt and sprockets-1990-94 2.0L engines
Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley, tensioner arm, idler pulley, oil pump sprocket, special washer, flange and spacer.
Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt.
Remove the crankshaft retaining bolts, then remove the pulley.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket retainer bolt and washer from the
sprocket, if used, and remove the sprocket. If the sprocket is hard to
removed, the proper puller may be used. If no bolts are used on the
sprocket. Use the correct puller to remove.
Hold the camshaft stationary using the hexagon cast between
journals No. 2 and 3 and remove the retainer bolt. Remove the sprocket
from the camshaft.
Install the sprockets to their appropriate shafts. Install the
retainer bolts and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 65 ft. lbs.
Check both tensioner and idler pulley for bearing wear, and replace if needed.
Align the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the silent
shaft sprocket. Fit the inner timing belt over the crankshaft and
silent shaft sprocket. Ensure that there is no slack in the belt.
Fig. 5: Align the camshaft sprocket so marks face each other and
are in alignment with the top surface of the cylinder head-1990-94 2.0L
Fig. 6: Align the crankshaft timing mark and the oil pump sprocket timing mark-1990-94 2.0L engine
Fig. 7: Timing marks in alignment-1990-94 2.0L engine
While holding the inner timing belt tensioner with your fingers,
adjust the timing belt tension by applying a force towards the center
of the belt, until the tension side of the belt is taut. Tighten the
When tightening the bolt of the tensioner, ensure that the tensioner
pulley shaft does not rotate with the bolt. Allowing it to rotate with
the bolt can cause excessive tension on the belt.
Check belt for proper tension by depressing the belt on its' long
side with your finger and noting the belt deflection. The desired
reading is 0.20-0.28 in. (5-7mm). If tension is not correct, readjust
and check belt deflection.
Install the flange, crankshaft and washer to the crankshaft. The
flange on the crankshaft sprocket must be installed towards the inner
timing belt sprocket. Tighten bolt to 80-94 ft. lbs. (110-130 Nm).
To install the oil pump sprocket, insert a Phillips screwdriver
with a shaft 0.31 in. (8mm) in diameter into the plug hole in the left
side of the cylinder block to hold the left silent shaft. Tighten the
nut to 36-43 ft. lbs. (50-60 Nm).
The marks are for an initial reference only. Once the belt is correctly in place and proper tension set, the cam is in time with the crankshaft and will stay that way until the belt breaks or slips from one cog to the next (won't happen if the tension is correct).
After the belt is initially set with the marks lined up, two rotations of the crankshaft (one rotation of the camshaft) will have the marks in a different place. The only exception would be if the belt had an exact multiple of ribs/teeth compared to the crankshaft, and that is not very likely.
I hope you've solved the problem by now, but there are alignment marks on the crank shaft (top pulley), idler (lower side), and cam shaft (smaller, bottom pulley) which should be aligned with stationary marks on the timing belt rear cover.
The belt has marks that align with the aforementioned marks (lines). The double marks on the belt align with the camshaft marks and the single marks with the others.
Loosen the tensioner clamp (nut) to allow the spring loaded tensioner to press on the belt and retighten the nut.
Rotate the crank shaft (clockwise, probably two revolutions) and make sure the pulley marks realign to the marks on the cover (they don't have to realign with the marks on the belt).
Rotate the crank shaft a full revolution once the belt is on and check that alignment is preserved.
Periodically loosen and retension the tensioner nut (access through a hole in the cover) to ensure that tension is maintained as the belt relaxes.