Stalled out?..no start,fule pump running constantly when key is in start poss.
Ok here is what happend and is happening right now, ok first i started my truck to warm it up b4 i whent to work,it started like always dose, after i started it i took out a child carseat and was walking to my porch to put down carseat and the truck just stopped running like it was out of gas,so i put in 4-5gal. of gas and tried to start it up,but no go,...all i hear thats different is the fule pump seems to run non stop while i got the key in start pos.(well u know,not in start posision but turn key to "almost" start)so im not sure what is wrong as it has well over 1/4 of a tank now,and pump is running,but it seems like no fule to engine as it will not "catch" when i try starting...could it just be as simple as a fule filter?and if so where is it,...i looked on the frame where it should be but i cant find it when i trace the fule lines down the fram...help plz...thanks,josh
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IS THERE POWER TO THE FULE PUMP DID YOU CHECK THE FULE PUMP RELAY YOU CAN CLICK OFF AND ON WHEN TURN THE KEY OFF AN ON ITS UNDER THE HOOD DO YOU HEAR IT CYCLE WHEN TURN THE KEY TO ON POSITION HAVE SOME ONE TAKE THE GAS CAP OFF AND LISTEN FOR THE FULE PUMP TO RUN FOR FIVE SECONDS IF THEY HEAR IT THEN PUMP IS RUNNING AND OK WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY BACK OFF WAIT 10 SECONDS FOR IT TO RESET AND IT WILL CYCLE AGAIN WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON .. IF THAT IS OK CHECK FOR SPARK AT A PLUG IF YOU HAVE SPARK AT THE PLUG THEN ONE SHOT EITHER IN THROTLE BODY AND TRY TO START IF IT FIRES THEN WE CAN TAKE FROM THERE LET ME KNOW HOW YOU DO HERE POHLCAT
Sounds like the engine stalled and would not start long before you decided to replace or re-gap the spark plugs.
My first thought based on your previous posts is that your fuel pump has failed. What happens if you spray a little carb spray into the intake while somebody cranks it over? Does it start? Will it stay running if you keep spraying carb spray into the intake?
If that the case than I would definitely suspect a fuel issue and the next step would be to measure fuel pressure. Should be around 35-40 psi (off the top of my head). If there is no pressure the next step is to check for power at the fuel pump.
The connector for the fule pump will be behind the fuel tank on the passenger side of the gar. You will be looking for a grey wire. There will be two of them. The larger one supplies power to the pump. There should be power anytime the key is turned to the run position for 3-5 seconds. There should be power all the time when the key is in the crank position. If both of those are true than the next step is to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump.
Hope that gets you started in the right direction.
This happens rarely but especially in hot weather you can get an Air bubble in the fuel line that will cause your car to stall out due to fuel starvation. This is normally resolve itself when you switch the engine off and on thus causing the fuel pump to prime itself again.
ok here we go, hook up a feul pressure guage that can be read from inside the car, and check fuel pressure while driving, if the pressure stays fairly constant then the best bet is to hook up a real time scanner with snapshot capabilities ( like snap on or bdm pro) and take it for a drive again, ti could be a sensor reading out of range but not enough to set a code
Sounds like the automatic choke is either binding or gone bad.
On a cold start, that's why the RPMs are bumped up for a few minutes...the choke is allowing the engine to warm up, before dropping the intake mix to normal "run" level.
However, should the choke remain closed once the engine is hot, the stalling will happen for lack of air.
The choke-control is mounted on top of the manifold, near the throttle cable-cam. Look for a small (about 3" wide X 2" deep) cone-shaped metal can with a linkage to the throttle cam.
With the engine off, spray the linkage at both ends with Liquid Wrtench and work the linkage in and out of the can a few times to check for smooth operation. You should feel slight back-pressure when you move the linkage toward the controller. With the linkage pushed in, spray and wipe the exposed surface inside the controller body.
Allow the cleaner to dry for a few minutes (it's just oil, I know...but if you used a spray, the propellants could be flammable) and start the truck. Allow it ti idle at least 5 minutes until the auto-choke pulls back on the throttle...then take a short ride around the block to see if that cured the stalling.
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first scan for any codes if it comes up po 300 just a guess it could be random misfire puts the car in limp mode . the igniton modual underneath the coil pacs the coils sit on could be redy to go or if not that check fule pressure by puting fule pressure guage on shrader valve located on fuel rail on top of injector assembly and check fule pressure with fule pressure guage. car of key on pump reading should be around 48-55 key on car on reading should be around 55.minus -3 to 10psi = reading of 38 to45 only if the fule regulator has vacume line atached to it on fule rail dubble check psi reqirments in car manual for co mpleat accuracy. If it doeint have vacume line pressure stays constant 48- 55psi