Cannot get front hub assembly to come off. caliper and rotor are removed, spindle nut and cotter pin removed, still will not budge, even with a puller.
I have a '04 3500 4x4 that I am replacing the front wheelbearings on. I have the brake caliper and rotor removed, the four bolts that hold the hub assembly, and of course the nut and cotter pin from the spindle are removed, and yet even with a puller I cannot get the hub assembly off, what am I doing wrong???
thank you for your help, Don
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Re: cannot get front hub assembly to come off. caliper...
These things always stick. Here's my trick to get them off. Get 4 more bolts with the same thread, but much longer. Screw them into the holes, start the engine (DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL), and turn the wheel back and forth. As you get all the way to one side the longer bolts will hit the axle housing and push the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle. Snap on also mahes a special tool for this that does the same thing, but uses the factory bolts. There's probably 20 different ways you can rig something up that will work off the same principle. You're gonna have to get creative if you wanna drive it this week.
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If its to wheel drive than it will have a inner and outer bearing.
1. Remove the caliper
2. Remove the dust cap from the center of he rotor
3. Remove the cotter pin from the spindle
4. Remove the castellated nut
5. Remove the nut and washwer
6. Remove the outer bearing
7. Remove the rotor from the spindle
8. Remove the grease seal from the back of the rotor
9. Remove the inner bearing
Clean the grease out of the rotor. Use a punch to remove the inner and outer races from the hub. Install the new races into the rotor with a seal/race driver. Pack the new bearings. Install inner bearing into rotor. Install new grease seal. Wipe old grease off of the spindle and apply a thin coat of new great.
Install rotor ono spindle. Install outer bearing, washer, and nut. Tighten nut snug then back off nut a half of turn and then tighten agin just barely snug.
Install castellated nut and cotter pin.
Reinstall dust cap
Reinstall caliper and your done.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
up your Dodge Ram. Block the wheels to keep it from rolling as you
work. Get started by removing the first tire and wheel assembly. Remove
the hub extension and the brake caliper as well as the caliper adapter.
Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, washer and
outer wheel bearing. Now, pull the old rotor off of the spindle. Clean
the area with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Pack the wheel bearings
Install the new rotor and hub onto the spindle. Replace the
outer wheel bearing, washer, and then the retaining nut. Torque the nut
to 30 to 40 ft. lbs. while rotating the hub and rotor.
Then tighten the nut and install the nut lock and a new cotter pin.
Clean the grease cap and then coat it with new wheel bearing
grease and replace the cap. Put the caliper adapter back into place and
then tighten the two mounting bolts with a torque wrench. Install the
wheel and tire assembly.
Repeat this process for each additional rotor and then lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts and test drive your Dodge Ram to make sure that the installation was successful.
Remove the caliper from the spindle and rotor, but do not
disconnect the brake hose. Suspend the caliper inside the fender
housing with a length of wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the brake
Remove the grease cap from the hub and remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and adjusting nut.
Grasp the hub/rotor assembly and pull it out far enough to loosen
the washer and outer wheel bearing. Push the hub/rotor assembly back
onto the spindle and remove the washer and outer wheel bearing.
Remove the hub/rotor assembly from the spindle.
Inspect the rotor for scoring and wear. Replace or machine as
necessary. If machining, observe the minimum thickness specification.
If the rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating
from the new rotor with brake cleaner. Pack a new set of bearings with
high-temperature wheel bearing grease and install the inner roller
bearing in the inner cup. Pack grease lightly between the lips of a new
seal and install the seal, using a seal installer.
If the original rotor is being installed, make sure the grease in
the hub is clean and adequate, the inner bearing and grease seal are
lubricated and in good condition, and the rotor braking surfaces are
Install the hub/rotor assembly on the spindle. Keep the assembly
centered on the spindle to prevent damage to the grease seal or spindle
Install the outer wheel bearing, washer and adjusting nut.
Adjust the wheel bearings according to the procedure in
, then install the nut retainer, cotter pin and grease cap.
check the front of the hub assembly, just to double check and see if there is a cap on it with a crown nut behind it. It should not be stuck to the spindle at all and this is the most likely cause. If there is a crown nut there, there will be a cotter pin you have to remove to take the nut off.
NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies.
NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush.
NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.
You have to remove the hub to remove the bolts, if they won't come out by rotating the hub.
To remove the hub, take the cap off at the center of the hub (the cap would be poking you a the center of the hub, and is about 2 inches in diameter.
There should be a cotter key or something preventing the spindle nut from turning. Remove it. If there is a cover over the spindle nut, remove it. Take the spindle nut off. Pull lightly on the hub, and it will come off. Watch for the front bearing to pop out.
To reassemble, put hub back on spindle, put bearing and washer against bearing, thread on spindle nut and tighten while rotating hub. Back off 1/2 to 1 flat add cover (if used) and install cotter key.