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Posted on Apr 12, 2009
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1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor- just changed master cylinder, brake booster, and bled brake lines- did not help

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  • hank1977 Apr 12, 2009

    Manually. I had alot of air in the rear lines. Pretty sure i got it all out. My problem started with brakes being soft and could hear alot of air by the master cylinder. I put in master cylinder and brake booster from junkyard (maybe a mistake). Now the brakes are completely gone and brake light is on.


  • hank1977 Apr 12, 2009

    That's good to know since it only took me about 5 hours and alot of cussin' to install the brake booster. I will try to bleed the brakes again and let you know if i still have problems. While i have your attention, also having problem changing one of the spark plugs that is located right behind the steering column and all my lights flicker. Any suggestions? Thanks for your time 


  • hank1977 Apr 12, 2009

    All the lights flicker, not always but most of the time. While i've been workin on the brakes, i' ve noticed when i hold them down the lights  flicker and the engine kind of sputters. As for the spark plugs, you get to them from the side, behind the wheels. I changed all but 1 on the drivers side because it's right behind the steering shaft. Can get a socket on it, but not a ratchet or a swivel. No room.  


  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    Did you use a power bleeder or manually ?

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    have no brakes on chevy 3500 express van with hydrobooster changed brakes and master cylinder already\\

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    1993 ford escort there are four brake lines that attach to the master cylinder which ones service the front brakes

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    which brake line do you remve from the master cylinder to only use the front brakes

  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2014

    changed brakepads on back and also brake calipers and master cylinder. Can't get bled pedal goes to floor.

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    gas goes to the injectors but they will not fire

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2 Answers

Curt Downs

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  • Chevrolet Master 1,779 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 12, 2009
Curt  Downs
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Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

  • Curt Downs Apr 12, 2009

    Also make sure all connections are tight at master cylinder and everywhere else, otherwise you will still be sucking in air and you won't get a good firm pedal.

  • Curt Downs Apr 12, 2009

    Are you having trouble getting a spark plug socket on the plug? Not much room to work? The flickering lights, do they flicker all the time? Which lights, everything, or just dash lights, headlights,?

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  • Master 607 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 12, 2009
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Ok the BRAKE BOOSTER is ONLY there to give you pwer assisted, otherwise NO POWER BRAKES. ( not anything to do with the low brake pedal ) Hopefully the junkyard master cylinder was in better shape than your original. AS far a bleedinda system, heres what I do. First with a1998 vehicle, I would go to ALL 4 wheels , OPEN & CLOSE slightly each bleeder to insure none of them are FROZEN, and they do freeze shut ENSUE THE MASTER CYLINDER IS FULL and CLOSED Now with an assistant sitting in the drivers seat, ready to pump the brakes, and ABLE TO HEAR YOU. Go to the furthest wheel from the master which would be the R/R. DONT touch anything yet. Tell the asst too slowly pump the brake pedal till it gets hard, and then HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN ( and dont let up on it until the pedal drops. If the ast lets up before the bleeder is closed you **** in air.Repeat at each wheel til the pedal stays hard. Hope this helps

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Related Questions:

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2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn

Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair
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Brake pedal goes nearly to floor front pads, calipers, brake hoses changed, rotors turned Master cylinder changed, brake booster check valve changed rear brakes checked, drums good no ridge, shoe's...

I would go with not bled correctly

The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake
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I have a 98 plymouth grand voyager. i had to replace the wheel cylinder. after that I had to replace the master cylinder. it was bled and had a good brake pedal. (keep in mind, no lose of fluid) it set...

If you hear air, it is probably a failed diaphram in your booster. When you say you had good pedal, that was with engine off, right. Then, with engine on it goes to the floor. Does it still go to the floor with engine off? If no, it is the booster. Let me know if this isn't it or you have more questions.
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98 wrangler - brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. The master cylinder and all brake lines are free of leaks. I'm not losing any brake fluid anywhere. I replaced the booster that is attached to the...

You changed the master cylinder and vacuum booster and have no leaks anywhere, but did you bleed the entire brake system after you did this work? A little bit of air in any of the lines will make the brakes ineffective.
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I have a 1998 chevy s10 it has a good brake pedal with the engine off but with it running the pedal go'es to the floor and you can hear air at brake booster

Check for fluid leaks and your brakes. If you see no leaks and your brakes are in good shape replace the brake master cylinder and bleed the system. The air you hear is because the pedal went to the floor. If the booster goes bad the pedal will get so hard you can hardly push it at all. I think you will find if this happened suddenly either you have a major leak or the master cylinder went bad.
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Need to replace a brake booster on a 1998 chevy cavalier

get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.
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Brake pedal goes soft when engin is running on 1998 chevy 1500

If your rubber brake lines are from the factory those hoses can stretch when the brakes are applied. This same thing happened to me. I replaced the master cylinder, with little to no change. So then I changed the brake booster. And if you read the fine print if either the brake booster or the master cylinder go bad it can take the other with it. So if the rubber brake lines don't fix this I would look at replacing both the master cylinder and the brake booster at the same time. But if you would like to trouble shoot this issue a bit more you can clamp off just the rear brakes or just the front brakes or even clamp off 3 of 4 or if it might be a issue before it even hits the brakes them self you can clamp off all 4 of the brakes to see were the problem is. This is to test fewer components at once and to see if the issue is with the cylinders / calipers or hoses. This will help you determine the location of the problem faster and with out throwing parts at your truck and hopping it fixes the issue.
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