Foreign object has gone down oil filler pipe

Check your oil filler cap for creamy white if so head gasket gone or could have cracked the cylinder head was the engine cool before you put water in? Also water usually leaks from water pump seal head gasket into cylinder / engine or split pipe check all good luck

There was no slatted cover on my S40,the slatted cover on yours sounds like a custom filter put there to prevent any foreign object from falling into the engine space, don't remove it . If you do remove it remember to put it back

Due to gas thefts becoming more prevalent when gas was either hard to come by or expensive or both, many manufacturers installed anti-siphon blocks in the gas tank filler necks of many vehicles. These can sometimes be gotten around by judicious fishing of the inlet tubing down through the gas filler neck, but it can be very hard on some vehicles. Try measuring the distance from the bottom of the gas tank to the top of the filler neck with a yardstick. You can hold the bottom of the yardstick approximately at the bottom of the tank as you can see it while kneeling down beside the back tire and note the distance to the filler tube. Mark off that distance from the end of the inlet tubing for the siphon and put a heavy mark on the tubing at that point. If you can\'t get the inlet tubing down the filler neck to this mark, you probably aren\'t going to be able to successfully siphon gas. You can try twisting the tubing as it goes down the filler neck and pushing it up and down to see if you can snake by the anti-siphon block. It helps if the siphon inlet tubing is small and stiff, but again, no guarantees.

I will try and simplify the problem. I have an oil leak, which I traced up the back of the engine to the cylinder head area.
When I removed the top plastic cover on top of the coil packs I found oil in every recess next to the coil packs. The crankcase breather pipe was also off. The source of the leak is not evident, but it is definetely above the cylinder head gasket area.

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Hi,
If you're lucky: First disconnect the battery's negative cable There is a rubber hose that connects the filler spout to the actual fuel tank, This is easy to remove and you may be able to remove that irritating flap.
If you're not lucky: You'll have to drop the fuel tank and completely disconnect the hose from the tank to remove the foreign object.

Typical worn engine symptoms. The oil burning and smoking is most likely the valve stem seals gone hard and worn allowing oil into the cylinders when running.

They can be replaced insitu by most shops without removing the cylinder head.

White Mayonnaise on the oil filler cap and in breather pipe is often from engine always running too cool or many short trips....under 5 miles. Coolant temperature should be 85C and above after a mile or two.

If the pistons are worn, a used engine would be best bet..

In order to know how worn the engine is the engine needs a compression test and a leak down test. if the shop you take it to does not know what a leak down test is, take it some else.

Compression pressure should be even on all cylinders and around 130 to 180 pis.

A' leak down test' is putting air into each cylinder with a special two gauge tool and measuring the cylinder air loss in percentages. Good engine will be 5% to 15% loss. Bad engine will be 25% and above.

On a diesel engine the percentages will be the same but compression will be 400PSI or better.

hi, please check you oil level, ( on level ground). when the car is running place an old rag in front of you and take off the oil filler cap (be careful not to get near the fan, fan belt) if no oil comes out of the filler hole possible fault: oil pick-up pipe (in sump partial block), / oil filter in sump ( blocked), oil pump worn, oil relief valve (returning oil back into the sump), spring weak / broken. the (E C U) ENGINE CONTROL UNIT has many sensors that can stop the engine: but try cleaning the (EGR) ENGINE GAS RECIRCLING VALVE, this valve recycles gas back in to the engine, ( must be CLEANED with BRAKE FLUID) this is a VERY DIRTY job, as this gets block with carbon (EXHAUST PARTICULES). the E C U will detect all of these sensors: the (ECT), TOP OF ENGINE engine coolant temperature sensor rough tick over, (HO2), EXHAUST DOWN PIPE, heated oxygen sensor checks mixture of fuel, can adjust air / fuel, it tries to keep car going / may flood engine. (M A F) mass air flow, adjusts fuel / air retio this sensor can so much fuel to the engine it may flood it. flooded engine mean WET spark plugs. i would put it on dianostic machine to check these out before paying for extra sensors. gerry

Does your fuel gauge work properly? If not, the "ball" could be the float from the gauge sender. If the gauge does work properly, then you may have foreign objects in your gas tank. If so, then you should remove the tank (preferably when it is empty) and clean it (and the filler tube) out thoroughly.

Fluid Level Checking & Filling To Check:

1. Connect a scan tool to the vehicle to read ATF temperature. ATF checking temperature should be 95° - 113°F (35° - 45°C).
2. Start the engine.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Place a drain pan under the transmission.
5. Allow the ATF temperature to reach 95° - 113°F (35° - 45°C). Automatic transmission fluid inspection plug
   
   
6. Remove the inspection plug from the transmission housing. Fluid is pipe will run out. If fluid continues to drip out, no additional fluid is needed. If only the fluid in the overflow pipe runs out, additional fluid is needed.

To Fill:
Automatic transmission fluid filler pipe

1. Pry the cap from the filler pipe. The cap locking device will be destroyed during removal.
2. Pull the plug from the filler pipe.
3. Add fluid slowly with VAG 1924 or equivalent until fluid runs out of the inspection hole. Install the inspection hole plug.
4. Install the plug in the filler pipe and secure with a new cap.

The engine breather pipe seems to be blocked.
It may also damage the oil seals.